StormyTommy

Just read my last post and spotted typo "handles" :cuckoo: I meant to say "The repair kits are £30 for pair inc p&p".

All, The handles are £30 for pair inc p&p. Dave, I have sent £30 via paypal.

Driver's side handle stopped working tonight, :nuts: hoping that this repair kit will sort it :clap: Have sent pm to Dave.

Are you getting any ABS fail codes in Vagcom? Which sensor did you change? Does the light flicker when ignition is turned on - this is a sign the ECU is doing its tests. There is a guide at the start of this post on how to check the resistance of the solinoids in the ABS pump unit, however, the ECU checks the resistances and should latch a fault code if any are out of spec.

Thanks, thought I should put something back into the forum as I wouldn't still have the car without the tips I've picked up here. :clap: Good solution, ABS? What ABS?

Finally got around to working on ABS problem. Prodedure I followed to take out VR6 ABS pump/valve assembly. RHS/LHS is looking from front: Do brake pressure removal routine; Ignition off, pump brake pedal 20+ times - Safety warning - very high pressure in system. Remove earth lead to battery. To make space for getting to pump move the coolent expansion tank: Unclip coolent level connector. Remove trim at RHS of tank - it levers off, to expose 2 nuts! :norty: Remove 2 * 10mm nuts - 10Nm (7 ft Ib). Tank can now be moved as required (with 2 * hoses still connected) to get access to pump. Unclip connector to large resistor on front of pump. Unclip the plastic bracket that holds connector to body of pump. Unclip cable restrainer from steel bracket on RHS of pump. Unclip the spring bracket that holds resistor onto pump body and remove resistor and plastic bracket. Unclip connector from front of ABS pump (valve block data cable) Unclip connector from RHS of ABS pump (pump power feed cable) Pump is held in place at 3 points by rubber bushings that bolt onto brackets, there are 3 hex metal pins on the unit that slide into the rubber bushings. 2 * 13mm nuts on LHS and 1 on RHS, I had to put pliers on one of the bushing/mount to stop it turning while undoing the nut. Remove 2 nuts on LHS and remove the heat shield. I redid the 2 nuts to secure unit while removing pipes. Loosen the nut on the RHS, the unit can lift off the bracket on this side. Remove as much fluid as possible from resevour - I used squeezy bottle with length of plastic pipe to 'suction' it out. Can't get all of it because of filter inside bottle. Had considered it draining down from one of the bleed nipples, but decided to try and leave as much fluid in as possible to reduce air in system. *** After this next point you will have air in system and be into bleeding the brakes, also note the safety message at start re pressure in system! Undo 2 * pipes into LHS, these pull out (thanks to KipVR for tip), but were very hard to remove on mine. I used a large screwdriver to lever the edge of the plastic fitting while pulling hard. Need a container and plenty of rags to catch brake fluid that will drain out. Undo 6 brake lines at front of unit, 5 * 11mm & 1 * 13mm. Unit lifts UP off bracket on RHS and slides to right out of bushings on LHS. That's ABS pump/valve assembly, part number : '1H2 614 217 A' removed. Replacement is reversal of the above; fill with dot 4 brake fluid and do brake bleed procedure. I had to bleed the brakes twice as pedal was very spongy after first attempt (drove it on a quiet road at night and worked the brakes hard, also activated the ABS), also did the 2 bleed nipples on ABS unit and the 1 on Master cylinder, note this is a different size than the 11mm ones elsewhere, I think it was 6 or 7 mm. The above looks a bit complicated now I've written it down but most steps were easy with two exceptions: getting the 2 pipes out of the LHS of pump and bleeding the brakes afterwards. The 2 pipes took a lot of force to shift as mine had never been removed, however, they do go back in a lot easier as the plastic piece is v shaped. Bleeding brakes when you've let air in is often a problem according to lots of forum postings and mine was the same, was going to take it to dealer but they were ok after 2nd attempt.

Ok Kip thanks for that, someone else had told me to the same but I was a bit skeptical that brake pipes wouldn't be held on in some way!

Can anyone tell me how to undo these 2 pipes from a VR6 ABS pump?

Hang in there, hopefully its just a bit of air in lines that will come out with a second bleeding - esp. now that its been driven for a while. Vagcom should give you clear pointer to whats putting on ABS light. Brave doing a big job like mk4 brake upgrade in this weather, I'm trying to put maintenance off till its warmer, but had to crawl under her this morning to temporally reattach heat shield to exhaust - now I've got to get it welded. MOT time is always stressful - hope you get a pass, real shame for another one to get broken up!

Car passed MOT after brake pipes replaced :clap: , ABS light is very rarely coming on so I'll wait till warmer weather before trying to get the pump out and repaired/replaced. muppetlab : agree with mikevr, its worth getting car Vagcom reading done. In my case it pointed to a specific valve and when I measured from the ECU back to the pump on that valve it was sometimes out of spec. If you have'nt swapped ECU, and want to try that, it's a really easy one to do. Here is the procedure I used to remove ECU and fault find towards pump. Remove connector to ABS ECU. Located along side of passenger footwell, behind plastic panel in front of door hinges - 2 screws behind plastic caps and 1 plastic screw in footwell. Remove/loosen nuts to release ECU module then lever up crome handle to unplug connector. Can now measure from the connector back to the Teves mark IV ABS pump, checking the resistance of the solinoids in the pump, this is one of the checks the ECU carries out to on the pump to make sure all the valves will work if needed. If any are outside of range it disables the pump, raises the ABS warning light and a Vagcom error code. Outlet valves should be 3 - 5 ohms, Inlet valves 6-8 ohms. Connector layout: 55 pins in 3 rows, 1st row (longest) 1-19, middle 20-37, 3rd 38-55. wire loom joins from the 1/20/38 end. These are: pins to measure across, wire colour, solinoid being measured, values I got. 33-36, W, Outlet valve Rear Left = 8.6 ohms (outside of range which matches Vagcom error I get of "00276 - ABS Outlet Valve: Left Rear (N136)" 33-2, BK-BL, Outlet valve Front Left = 3.3 ohms 33-21,G, Outlet valve Front Right = 3.3 ohms 33-20, BL, Inlet valve Front Left = 6.7 ohms 33-38, GY-R, Inlet valve Front Right = 6.7 ohms 33-54, GY, Inlet valve Rear Left = 6.6 ohms Measured from pin 33 R-Y, could also use pin 3 R/Bk To check the resistance of the wire to the pump I measured from pin 36 on ECU connector to connector on pump (white wire) middle left of plug and got 0.1 ohms. Conclusion: internal pump wiring or solinoid is faulty to outlet valve rear left. Only other diag step would have been to measure resistance on the pins of the pump connector itself in the engine bay. Pin for White wire (far Left) to pin for Red/White for Outlet valve Rear Left . However, its difficult to get a meter probe onto those pins, need to make up 2 small connectors to slide onto pins. Hope the above can be of help to someone.

Got a quote for ABS pump swap out from a garage, approx £160 all in, with me repairing pump or supplying a secondhand one. Mechanic said the 2 pipes into the top left of the pump just pull out, which supprised me as I thought the pressure would force them off?

Took Corrado for MOT, The ABS check light stayed off during the test BUT it failed mot on corroded rear brake pipe and bulging front brake pipe :censored: ... I plan on getting garage to replace brake pipes, but am thinking I should try doing repair of pump beforehand as garage is going to have to bleed brakes afterwards and light may come on for the retest. Not sure if its clear from post above but the testing I did pointed to a specific problem with the ABS pump assembly in that I'm getting a high resistance reading for one of the valves. This matched the error code Vagcom is showing. Looks like the coolent expansion tank has be moved out of the way to give some room. Has anyone got a list of steps (or link to a relevent forum posting) on replacing the pump, especially how do you take off the 2 inlet/outlet pipes at the top left of the pump?

Have been getting ABS warning light coming on intermittently on my 95 VR6. At first it only came on very occasionally and cleared on ignition off/on, but gradually has become more frequent till at times it came on 10 minutes into most journeys and wouldn't always clear immediatly. It seems to be temperature dependent, i.e. comes on if car very cold or hot, but there seems to be a 'Goldilocks' temperature in the middle where it doesnt come on! MOT is due soon so need to get it sorted. Have done a lot of searching on the forum and some checks from what I've read on here. VAGcom on the ABS module shows a 00276 - ABS Outlet Valve: Left Rear (N136) Fault. I have occasional speed sensor fault codes but 99% of the time it's just 00276. Removed ABS ECU and no signs of any corrosion or water damage. Unplugged connector to ABS pump & cleaned pins/connector. Fault went away for a few days, but did return. Measured resistance across pins at ABS ECU back towards pump, Outlet valve Rear Left = 8.6 ohms, other outlet valves = 3.3 ohms (specification of 3-5 ohms). Resistance of wire from ECU to pump connector was ok. I suspect that the Teves 4/EDS ABS pump has the common problem of cracks in internal flexable copper ribbon cable from its external connector to valve block. This would explain why it's temperature dependant and perhaps movement of the connector while cleaning it cleared fault for a while. I plan on either replacing unit with a secondhand one or trying to repair existing one. Questions: 1. Will ABS pump from any other cars (eg VR6 Golf) work ok in place of the Corrado part? 2. Removal/fitting of ABS pump; has anyone got a list of steps (or link to a relevent forum posting) on replacing the pump, eg. what parts do you need to remove to get access, how do you take off the 2 inlet/outlet pipes at the top left and how is the pump itself held on? I have read its important to depressure the system before removing lines and that bleeding after replacement can be a problem - any other gotcha's? 3. I'm considering removing pump and trying to repair the internal connector - anyone got any advice on this repair?

Well I fitted the VAG leads and they worked out ok, hard to tell if length was exactly correct or not, imagine there's quite a small difference between CP & dizzy versions. The quality of the VAG leads is way better than others I've tried. Looking at the vwspares site their Beru leads look the same but I'll stick with these now their in. Thanks for your replies.

Guys, I went ahead & ordered the ones quoted as W 357 998 031 @ £85 + vat before I got your replies (needed them asap). was8v: are the vwspares.co.uk ones exactly the same as the VAG supplied ones eg. plug ends bonded on? If so I've just wasted £40 :( I had them picked up today and the pack has 7 leads so must be for the distributor setup rather than coil pack - lengths may be slightly different? Anyhow when I've checked them tomorrow I'll let you know if they work out.

Does anyone know the VAG part number for a set of Beru HT leads for a 95 VR6 with coil pack. Two VAG garages are quoting me 2 different part numbers. 200 998 031 @ about £50 + vat, W 357 998 031 @ £85 + vat. I suspect it’s the second one as price is similar to one quoted in other posts, but that dealer couldn't find chassis number for my car on his system & so he wasn't sure this was correct.

Plug removal tool arrived aok - thanks. :D

I'd like one - Can you PM me payment details? thanks

Took car out for first night time drive after fitting new head lamp loom from Gavin (H100vw). What a difference - I can see the light! 8) Plus my 'in-dash heater unit' (light switch) doesn't get so hot anymore. Had to replace that a couple of years ago - £80 quid for a light switch? This is a great mod, can't recommend it enough...

Update on vr6 misfire: since changing the camshaft position sensor. Its definitely running a lot better, (acceleration faster/smoother) but there is still a problem of slight hesition, think I will have to change the MAF eventually. I've sent a letter to Bosch UK to clarify differences between MAF part #'s 021 906 462 & ... ... 462A but no reply yet. I think StormVR6 fitted the 462A part without problem. In the meantime I'll try to get the throttle body cleaned out (there is oil residue in there?) & battery replaced (putting out low volts). I've also got a head lamp loom from h100vw which I have to fit - never enough time... :roll:

Kev read codes last week & it looks like it's highlighted problem car was having (Camshaft position sensor). I'm thinking I should have my own copy of vag-com. Any opinions on the cheapest way of getting cable/software?

Got codes read last week (thanks kev) and it showed up intermittent fault with the Camshaft Position sensor. Got one, fitted it yesterday, did ecu reset. Took it for a drive, what a difference! :D I'd forgotten the acceleration it was capiable of. Don't know if it's fixed my steady 60-70mph misfire problem yet because I did'nt want to drive the car at any steady speed. :evil: I'm hoping this has cracked it.

Hesitation problem has returned, :( i.e. with car warmed up @ steady 60-70mph car 'misses a beat'. Still need to do 'basic settings' & get error codes.

I got 6 'BKR5EKUP', NGK, dual electrode, platinum, from http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/ cost £45.40 inc, (postage free over £10) Dealer quoted £60 inc for 6 NGK Platinum plugs, can't say they were the same because they couldn't quote NGK part #, just VAG #.

I think the RAC guy did leave it idling after he got it started. Yesterday, before reading your reply I went ahead & did the first part of the ecu reset procedure. I don't have vag-com so can't do the basic settings or check for error codes. I'm going to make further enquires on the vag-com topic to see can I get it scanned. I've been caught out with the 00513 code already, when a tech diagnosed engine speed sensor fault. This morning the idle seemed smoother, jury's out on the hesitation problem as traffic was heavy, but it wasn't as bad as its been. :) Thanks for the detailed reply I'll post an update when I've driven the car for a few days.