a_riot

I wouldn't. If you want, hook up VCDS and drive around on a hot day, and watch the temps go up after turning the car off. It can take quite a bit of time to get temps down after the engine is off, and the combination of the pump and after run fan accomplish this.

Those are my thoughts :)

Ah yes, there it is. Didn't even need to remove the hatch lid. Turns out the switch works, just seemed to get dirty and stuck. Some spray in there and toggling it back and forth seemed to get it working, hopefully for another 25 years :) Thanks for the tip!

Not sure what a Toad is. The Viper just piggybacks on top of the OE locking system, so all behavior is the same as before. Other than keyless entry, I have it programmed to keep the relay active so that if the windows or sunroof is open they get closed as well when I hit the lock button. It's come in handy in the winter when I want to run into a store and leave the car running but locked. I just take the fob with me and leave the key in the ignition. The only caveat is not to stick your head into the open window to do something and accidentally hit the fob button when leaning up against the car. I narrowly missed getting my head stuck in there.

Mine has apparently failed and so the light in the luggage compartment isn't turning off and is draining the battery. Does anyone know where this switch is located? The Bentley says "hatch lid" but I haven't been able to spot it. It looks like this: https://c1552172.ssl.cf0.rackcdn.com/562204_x800.jpg

Have you not installed a keyless entry system? I put a cheapie Viper in mine and use the key fob to lock the doors when in the vehicle. I never actually lock the vehicle when inside, but if I did, it's easy enough.

If you can hear something from the motor when hitting the switch, then I'd guess its the issue with the top yellow plastic guide. It seems to get stuck in the guide channel in the up position, and then jam, so when you hit the switch the motor clicks but it can't move the window so it cuts out. To fix it you'd need to remove the regulator and get it unstuck, which may require disassembly of the gear housing to get some slack in the cable to get it to release. I did this with mine, and once I got the plastic guide unstuck, I used JB Weld plastic epoxy in the little crack that developed that caused it to jam, put it all back together, tested it outside the car, reinstalled it and it's worked fine ever since.

Mine did the same thing recently. I bought a can of the expensive 3M headliner spray-on glue and it seems to have worked well. It was simple to pull the panel off, just two screws, then the inner panel can be pulled out. I removed all the material and glued it back on after cleaning all surfaces with IA.

Why not fix it? Usually the motor is fine, and the mechanism gets stuck at the top.

It appears to be for the rear. Are you referring to 535 801 193/194?

Sounds like the typical symptoms of a failing ignition switch.

Those motors are nearly indestructible so it's doubtful tiredness is the issue. However, they can get out of sync with the controller and act up. The last time I dealt with this was when one of the screws that was holding in the motor assembly backed out and the motor would spin but the cable wasn't engaged with the gear so the roof didn't move. Once I got that sorted, the roof wouldn't close all the way, and just stop a few inches short because where the motor thought the roof was and where the contoller did didn't match. So I would spin the motor with it disengaged to the cable, estimating how much spin I needed to get it back in sync. It took a bit of back and forth, but before too long I had it synced. Perhaps that is your issue as well.

They are cheap enough to buy, it would be difficult to make one much cheaper. Most time-saving tool I've made I use to route the door lock pin through the hole in the door card when I've taken it off and am putting it back on. It's a 4 inch piece of stiff plastic hose with an ID large enough to put over the pin, but with an OD small enough to get through the hole in the door card :) Another tool I made is for bleeding brakes and clutch. It's a very large syringe with a long hose affixed to it that fits snugly over all the bleeders. Using it I can bleed my brakes and clutch by myself.

The tool is cheap enough if you want to save yourself some agro. Getting that ring on and off is the only part of the job that gives me any grief. https://www.ebay.com/i/202510808498?chn=ps

I have one, but I'm in the US which may make shipping expensive.