ReekieVR

Let us know what happens. And have i nice hol !

Think i may have an answer for you. I had what sounds to be the same issue. Front wheel bearings replaced by a local garage. Car came back with rubbing / speed dependant sound. Took back & bloke could find nothing wrong. He said it was the new pads and would sort themselves out. Didnt. Took car to brake specialist and watched him follow the sound to its cause. Took hub off and there were fresh vice marks on either side. Crap local garage bloke had taken the hub off, stuck it in a vice to drive the bearings out and bent it. The noise was a combination of the pad rubbing on the disc and the caliper being moved around lots. Cost about £200 for new one fitted at stealers, but you can get it done cheaper. HTH

Much help, will give those a try - thanks lotty !!

Fan yes, not all the time tho, and not sure about fuel pump. Fan only ever seems to run on 1 speed though. I am going to change the rad thermostat soon. I 'll start a new thread about it though.

But there is a battery backup in a CAT 1 isnt there ? Wont the alarm keep running even with the battery disconnected? I thought that was the point ! If not then its a pretty major fault in my install ...

Whilst trying to identify a creaking when steering, i noticed that the drive shaft inner cv boot is split. Dont know how long its been like that but could it be the cause of the creaking? I will try to get some pix and an audio file of the offending problems. Any other suggestions as to why my steering would creak? Its sounds like the noise you get when getting a heavy object out of the boot and the rear suspension creaks. Apols for overuse of the word 'creak'.

I had a CAT 1 alarm fitted a couple of years ago. Just found out that the bonnet switch is not connected to anything. Insurance problem for suposed CAT 1 system ? Security problem ?

Had this problem too. Fixed by following the small black cable from the ignition to the underside of the dash just above your right knee. It plugs into something to do with the imob. WD40 the contacts and plug it back in. I still have the other hot start problem - caused by fuel vaporisation i think. I'm sure the fuel pump and / or water pump arnt running on after i switch off. But the engine always turns over so not same as your issue.

That metro must have been mental Pete. Seen a couple at rallys - the noise !!

Ziderapple - i eventually got a 1 m length of plastic coated, galvanised steel rope from b&q, and a pack of 'u' bolts. The rope is passed though a few parts of the inner shell around the boot / tail light area and clamped into a loop. No drilling - but not quite as secure as 6 rivits ... Will post some pix when its tidied up.

Ha - yeh - i can verify the spitfire sound ! They are frigin hard work to drive though.....

Fastest as passenger: highly modded Supra TTurbo which was totally nutts - ie same nutts acceleration at 140mph as at 40mph. This was also faster than : Fastest owned: current 5l TVR Chim. New engine hasnt freed up yet..... Interesting ones: mate has an original AC Cobra, which i have yet to experience.... And someone else i know has a Jag D-type - like this one. Mental....

Dont listen to JT-G60 , mate. He's :cuckoo: VR is the way to go..... they are loads better. :Laughing: *runs for cover*

This has nothing to do with your question mate. I just greased my runners and gave a few squits of wd40. No problems - just maintenance. Ran it back and fwd a couple of times and now its fukt. Only slides back about 1 inch and then fwd in small steps. Tilt is fine. I am v fuked off after 4 years hassle free sunroof operation. Just had to tell someone and it didnt deserve its own thread. Thanks.

A feeler for anyone interested: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?p=521732#521732

There seemed to be a lot of interest in the last group buy. Its a shame it fell through. I am needing a new zorst too. Maybe i will start a GB Feeler thread.... although i dont have the time to organise a gb :( What timescales are you looking at Neil?

Did you resolve this Neil ? I am having the same problem.

I reckon that top piccy would not have been a write-off tho. The chassis would be fine ( assuming thats the only damage). Chop the rear off and glass a new one in. The benefits of fiberglass ! Not so sure about the next one though....

Yeh - i saw that one too. _Monkeys experience just reminded me of it thats all. I think i may use the velcro method, but attach a short, but chunky leash to the box. If i am involved in a high speed crash, it will tether the box before it gets to me. Just need a suitable fixing method. I like the suspension strut idea and will have a look this weekend. Cheers guys.

Exactly KUTR's. Which is why you need to be able to drive one in the pishing rain / sleet ( although i dont fancy the idea of snow much.. ). These cars need to be driven ! I like the Cerb shape more than the Chim tbh. How did you find the visability? I sat in one the other day and was astounded by the small slot in the bodywork containing the windscreen . I know the later ones had a slightly bigger screen, but man - it was like looking through a letterbox ! And the doors ! They are looong.

Have any Edinburgh bods heard anything about Autowerek on Gorgie Rd? Is it gonna re-open? Is the To Let sign still outside?

Ha - you beat me to it bcstudent ! (I wouldnt base my car purchasing decision on a 3 para story in Portmouth Today anyway) '97 5L Chim owner for 9 months checking in. biggerbigneil if you are seriously about to purchase one, then spend a few quid getting a professional to check it over. Loads of threads on Pistonheads about that ( and general buying advice. Its the main TVR forum ). The standard advice seems to be - dont buy the 1st one you see / drive and get it checked over. You need to do your homework though. If you buy a lemon, you are going to burn money and hate it. Even with a goodun, you are going to have to budget £1k - £2k a year on maintenance. If its less, then great, but you really cant run one on the cheap. PhatVR6 - i'd call it a sports car, not a 'prestige' car. If you want quality trim, fab paint, 200mph whilst listening to Classic FM, and an easy sale when you get bored, then buy a porker. If you want nuts performance, a frankly terrifying soundtrack, and a car that is as unique as a Corrado ( there are slightly more Chims than Corrados now ), the a TVR of some sort is one of the few options. Oh and you are going to have to learn how to drive. I mean properly. Things you do every day in the C will put your Tiv in a hedge at the first sign of rain! Kick Up The R's is spot on 'bout the serp engines. Seems the concensus is they seem to be a lot better. And you ARE going to need glue at some point . Sayin all that - they are easy to drive slowly / in traffic / around town, and you need to be ok with people looking at you. You will also develop a rather silly looking grin. You cant stop it. It just appears. Bit like this one: Note how the grin remains unaffected by the crappy bit of trim on the a pillar..

Ok guys. Ta for the advice. Will have a think what to do. While i am here - did any of you bother soundproofing the boot area ? Was only gonna use cheap roofing stuff if, but is there any point in doing it at all ?

Tell that to _Monkey !!: "My last install used to get shop windows rattling as i drove by, however, when underestimating a bend on a wet night, they decided to leave the car after hitting me in the head! Morale of the story? ALWAYS bolt your sub boxes down as the back seats offer as much protection as tissue paper!!" I know i am probably being over-cautious - but he did use capitals.... If the seat latch gives in a front-on impact, it will form a lovely ramp aiming directly at my head, no? thanks Henny. Advice appreciated.

So do people think that velcro will stop decapitaion in the event of a crash or is it just a calculated risk? I mean you are only velcroing it to something else which isnt securly attached to the car !