Mike Edwards

Did you get the mixture adjusted while you were at it, or not?

And again...

This low?

Avo's are horrifically over-damped for road use - very harsh ride to the point where your car starts to rattle and creak. Buy some Koni's or FKs.

If you really want to get these seats out of your C, use a chainsaw. Nothing else will be as quick, nor as easy. :mad: In the event that you would like to be able to re-use them without extensive repairs, do as Nigel says...

Hopefully...

Here's the disk, and if anyone has one of these wheels for sale, e-mail me...

Okay, that didn't work. So, how do I attach a couple of picture then?

In the 1st picture: The scratch on the right is the subframe. The scratch in the middle is the anti-roll bar mount on the wishbone. The scratch on the left is the brake disk.

Typically, the one I care most about - the Moonlight Blue one. Annoyed I didn't spot the missing bolts though - even though I have the parts to fix it

The locking wheel bolt was the one that vibrated out due to being the only one left....

The casualties (on a quick visual inspection) are: 1 x 288mm front disk (about 1/2" worn off - I was 'braking' so it couldn't rotate); 1 x splash shield for the front disk (worn/bent to match the disk); 1 x front wishbone (front anti-roll bar mount worn away); 4 x wheel bolts (MIA - presumed stolen); 1 x Audi A3 Turbo 16" wheel (mounting face and one bolt hole damaged) Slight scrape on the leading edge of the front subframe, and I'm not sure the front pads on that side are too healthy any more. I'll see about posting some pictures tomorrow.

Not really. Got a picture?

If - as you drive at speed along a NSL road - you experience a rapidly worsening vibration followed by a bang and one of your front wheels bouncing off into the hedge, is this bad? My hands are barely shaking now an hour and a half later...

Wimps! When I 1st put the coilovers on my 16v the front spoiler was only 45mm off the tarmac... :twisted:

Passat 1988-92 rhd non-aircon heater controls. Model number(1st 3 digits) is Passat, but the other digits are identical (so it's the same...) Visit your friendly local scrappy today. :)

No rear end grip? 1. Make sure the tyres with the most tread are fitted to the rear - always. 2. How old are the rear shocks? If they're tired, they don't help. 3. What state are your rear axle bushes in? They perish, leading to "interesting" handling. Happy motoring... :)

GPC were doing the strips you've been discussing at Inters for £30 each. Guess what I bought...

They're all the mods I know of...

The Black VR6 has: Shrick VSR Gas-flowed throttle body Skorpion exhaust K&N filter AMD remap to suit the above. It makes 229lbft of torque at 3600rpm (19lbft at 4400rpm as stock) with more torque than the original peak figure all the way from 2500rpm to 5500rpm. :D It had just destroyed a Vibratechnic front mount when I bought it... :D

1 of them is substantially quicker as well...

The should have read "wonga"...

I've spent the wonga (or bought a car where someone else did) so that the known problems are less likely to happen. I've also done all the preventive bits and bobs. That said, the sunroof on the Black VR6 is proving to be educational...

Maybe just a problem with a Shrick-equipped VR6 with lots of miles, but: The rear engine mount compresses over time and will cause failure of the front mount even if it's a nice chunky VT item. For the anoraks amongst you, the standard rear VR6 mount shares the shock-absorbing components as the (less than wonderful) front mount...

Okay, The Passat sunroof (1991-97) has exactly the same track as the Corrado. The track for the glass roof is however slightly different. The reason the cable breaks is because the locking lever (referred to as the rear rocker on the (very useful) link) wears aand then starts to jam. This manifests as a slight popping noise on sliding the roof back, followed by the roof jamming when you try to slide it forward. The cable itself is very robust, but the casting on its end isn't. The bit that wears is common to both roofs. BTW, does anyone else think the author was robbed - $400 for a broken roof that was then damaged in transit? If you hear a popping noise from the mechanism when you try to slide the roof back it is only a matter of time... When replacing the cable, fit a new one of these at the same time.