Critical_Mass

Well that sounds like i sugested first which is that the resins in the super resin polish is sitting inside tiny stone chips you didnt know about. If you have any detailing spray spray some liberally over the panel they are on and buff off and see if that sorts it. EDIT: Or it could be the resins sticking to bonded contaminants in the lacquer like brake dust or industrial fall out, so in that case claying it as Goldie suggested would sort that problem out. So its not a bad paint job on the bonnet then? Yeah, my next step is the clay Goldie suggested.

Yeah that definately looks like water marks. The spots im talking about are minute, like lots of little pin sized dots all over. Sorry no pics.

Yeah sorry, forgot to say its bordeaux pearl. So it is the polish as apposed to the paintwork, ill give the clay bar a go and see how i get on. Them mer i used got it looking good.

Decided to polish the car last weekend using autoglym super resin polish. However i noticed after that there was lots of little white dots all over, especially on the bonnet. This weekend i used some Mer, which seemed to get alot of the white dots off after a bit of elbow grease. Has anyone else had similar problems with autoglym? Can polish react differently on different body works? Like ive said the bonnet is the most affected, and ive noticed that the bonnet isnt as smooth as the other panels. It has a rough/coarse feel to it. Is this a sign of a bad respray in the past? And finally, which polishes would you recommend? Cheers all. Gaz

Yeah that does look in good nick. As Yandards said, have you posted pics of right car?

Beat me to it ^. There's bound to be some people out there saying they find it offensive- its pathetic and its the way some of the community of this country is going.

Yes the PCD is 4x100.

tbh mate, the valve on mine is missing completely, and only has a pipe going from the head to a plug then connects into the air intake. Doesnt seem to be affecting anything.

Good news, nice one.

:lol: started a sibling war now.

...and this is a hatchback-

Looking at it another way, with a hatchback the rear window lifts with the boot lid. With a Saloon the rear window doesn't lift with the boot lid. Yeah, i preferred the box analogy too. :lol: but you get the gist.

Im ok for now mate, car will be off the road in the next month, so will be a waste of £££s. BUT, i am only in Leeds, so ill keep you in mind when i want a good scrub up for my rado in the future ;)

Right all, I ended up buying a set of spring compressors. Which made it easy. The word "perished" doesnt even get near to describing the top plate. So the Spring is compressed and the next part is putting the new plate on, when i get round to ordering it from VAG. But in order to get the old plate off, whats left of it, do i need to realise the springs from the compressors? Cant seem to remove the old plate or the rubber...? Any help from you guys i will be hugely grateful. Cheers Gaz

AH right ok, Thanks for that, ill give it a shot once the rain stops.

:lol: FOOL NO good over here, one bump and thats it bye bye wheel and tyre.

Sorry that was more directed towards Dec.

Sorry to sound thick, but how will not jacking the car up stop me from being able to undo the top nut, as the top of the damper is higher then where it usually is resting (when not knackered), a good inch and 1/2 is above where it should be and the nut is close to the top (pic)

So is a spring compressor and a wheel alignment needed if im changing just the spring disc (no. 7 on ekas diagram) on the rear? Whats the torque setting for the upper strut nut and anyothers on lower strut?

Will i need spring compressors if the top of the strut is aboe where it normally sits. Any alternative to spring compressors i can use, due to me not having any? Thanks

by the way is, do i have to take the shocker off completely, or can i take the top off and drop the whole wheel assembly, to get to the top of the shocker. AND how do you get the bolt off the top of the strut. Looks as though theres a flat bit of thread just above the bolt- cant get the bolt to budge when i tried? Thanks Gaz

Cheers mate! Thanks for replies all! :)

Yeah mate, gonna get down there tomorrow to take some pics. Unfortunately, if the alloy wheel claim is anything to go by, it'll take the council 8-9 months to send me my cheque :mad:

Twiss, when you say "That looks alittle like what mine was like but no way near as bad" do you mean mines not as bad as yours or vise versa? Yeah im hoping the cap can just be replaced, still means the shocker needs to come off.

Sorry that was a bit vague, i mean the cap give way not the shocker. So the shocker could be fine?