mr_fusion

Ok, weird one this. Here is the problem. Start up car, ABS light comes on and stays on. Plug in the VAG COM, try to connect to the ABS, cannot be found. Turn ignition off then on again, ABS light comes on then goes off like it should, connect VAG COM, finds ABS, no faults reported! This problem is totally conisistent. Only thing I might add is that there is a push button ignition start as the switch broke and would not work on the ignition position (so the push start button is pressed to fire the car up) I have a new switch so I can fit it at the weekend, but I don't fully understand how this would effect the ABS. I know everyone is just thinking "connect the new switch and see what happens" but I am pre-empting that this will not fix the problem and looking for other possible solutions as well. Any thoughts or anyone had a similar issue?

Ok, i'll stick with the 10w40 for now then. To be honest, I had put a couple of bottles of wynns oil treatment over the last 6 months to quieten the top end down a bit and I'm sure this isn't helping, so a nice oil change is probably on the cards this week.

I'll give that a go later tonight. The oil temps used to be fine when I first got the car a year ago, but have been getting progressively worse over time. There are no other signs of overheating though and the head work didn't reveal any other damage (although I can't be sure of the condition inside the block) One thing I will say though is that the temps don't increase when running either of teh chargers I have had on there. Although the water injection would counteract this to some degree anyway. Vince did say that it was running lean with the stock chip and injectors (which would increase temps anyway). Would a 10w50 oil help anyway as its not exactly a new engine or is the 10w40 oil going to be fine for the near future. I plan on doing an oil change when I get the mocal anyway.

I paid £904 + vat (£1066 inc) for all the above work this week (head rebuild, gaskets, clutch and chains at a v.friendly engineers in shrewsbury. Let me know if you need their details and I will pass them on.

p.s this temp is stock motor without the supercharger

Ok, looks like it was an airlock. Water temps are much lower now. Head has had a complete rebuild as well as the other work: Here is a breakdown Replace head gaskets, skim x 2 cyl head Dismantle and decoke cyl head, clean & face valves Reface cyl head, recut seats Bore out head & fit new valve guides, fit new hydraulic lifters Refit valves Replace timing chain and tensioners Replace clutch Car is a lot smoother now + clutch bite is much stronger. However this hasn't solved my oil temp problems. Just took it for a spin to work and back in central london, oil temps are normal untill its pushed a little (acceleration off the line). Temp then got up to about 126 degrees and settles back to 120 ish until I got back home. On the 140mile journey back at the weekend I was seeing these kind of temperatures and if I booted it they went as high as 144degrees. The low and high oil pressure senders have been changed but I haven't changed the oil temp sender yet as its a VAG only part. I have now ordered a Mocal oil cooler kit anyway as it no doubt a good investment (£137 off ebay including necessary sandwich plate). Bearing in mid this is a 140k mileage engine, what do people recommend as being the best oil to put in this? I have been running 10w40 semi synthetic halfords stuff for about 8 months now.

Coxylaad.... please explain that? Am i missing something mate or are you commenting on the "went well" and "overheating" as not being applicable to each other?

Long time, no update.. Ok here is where I am at: Car went in for work 2 weeks ago. Head gasket, timing chains, clutch and valve work went well. Went to pick the car up at the weekend and now it is overheating and water is boiling out of the expansion tank. Both rad hoses are getting hot (but building up LOTS of pressure) so thermostat seems good, water pump is about 1yr old so that should be ok so we have narrowed it down to a blocked rad. They are also fiting 2 new oil pressure senders and the oil temp sensor as well as a new rotor arm as well as 12 new hydraulic lifters. So, had to change my remap date with Vince to the 16th october and will pick the car up 140miles away this weekend coming (if its all running fine again that is)! Been with out the C for 2 weeks now and its pretty painful. Its not a daily driver, more my weekend car / project so I can live without it, but would be nice to get her back again. I will keep you all posted when I am back on the road... Cheers Guys

Have you adjusted the dashpot at all? I had to adjust this with my recent rotrex charger adventures and it can affect the return to idle quite significantly and prevented stalling when slowing down at junctions. This is on a VR6 though, not sure about your engine but I imagine it is the same.

Ok, injectors are in. I had to rush a little as it was getting dark fast and accidently left the small metal clips off that clip on the injectors / fuel rail. The fuel rail is pretty well bolted to the head and I can't see any leaks happening, so i hope it will be fine until i take everything off ready for the work in a few weeks. Tried to fire her up, wouldn't turn over - then realised i had plugged plugs 4 and 2 the wrong way round on the dizzy cap. Sorted that and she fired up briefly then died. Took Kev's / Vince's advice and unplugged the MAF. Low and behold, she fired up as normal. However the idle was now holding rock solid at 1300 rpm. I must add at this point that I am still running the mapped chip from stealth (from the z-eng charger), so I unplugged the battery and swapped chips back to stock. Fired her up again and YAY! now idles as normal. On the downside I have noticed a very small oil leak behind the oil cooler area (but not from it), no dripping as such but there is evidence of a small amount of oil coming out. Do you think I have blown a seal of some kind (possibly not the oil cooler seal)? It is pretty small but I will check in the morning that there isn't a puddle on the floor!.

I can only seem to find reference to the EIP tuning multilayer head gasket which is about £100 (although their site seems to think it will be $252 shipping to the UK) http://www.eiptuning.com/eip/headgaskets.html On another note is just received these (a couple are a bit scratched, but o-rings look brand new) :

ok Still waiting for injectors (should be here in next couple of days) Had a quote for head gasket (inluding skim if necessary as they can do it onsite), clutch and timing chains - about £750 (i need to chase up whether this includes valve work as well) Does this sound a good price? What have other people paid for similar work? This is through a friendly garage in shropshire through a family connection. Downside is, it will take 5 days, so I will more than likely take it up there the weekend before stealth and pick it up on the way back down to stealth the following monday.

I would go with the helicoil option as they are well easy to fit and are rock solid if done correctly. Worked a treat on my head where the belt idler mech is (quite soft aluminium) About £25 for the kit (including drill bit, tap, inserts and tools)

Right then... Just got off the phone with Vincey Baby Provisionally booked for the 25th sept for remap. He hasn't seen a Rotrex yet either, so learning curve for all! However, I now need to get the head gasket, chains and clutch done before then! - Nice Can anyone recommend a place in London (N / E preferably) who will do the work? Tried ringing a couple of places already, but had the same response - "no" as they consider it to be a monster of a job. Any recommendations boys (and girls)? p.s set of 8, 30lb red top injectors on their way - a steal at £82 inc shipping, off ebay (from New Jersey!)

Just rang "Volkswagen Specialists" in Docklands, East London (E14) to quote for a head gasket change and timing belt replacement. Answer from the guy was......... "I would rather commit suicide, the corrado is a horrible car - £800 if I have nothing better to do" Frankly, I would encourage everyone to stay away from this guy with an attitude like that! And they call themselves Volkswagen "Specialists!! Has anyone had this kind of ridiculous response from these guys!

Right, I have rearranged the intake order slightly. The MAF is now upstream of the charger and the 80mm hose now runs up to the BOV. It now runs quieter, but hasn't changed the wacky idle or kangarooing much. Order is now: (Filter) - (MAF) - (80mm elbow) - (Charger) - (50mm elbow) - (t-piece with BOV) - (50mm > 80mm reducer) - (80mm hose) - (TB) It still pulls just as strong though. I have emailed Vince to ask his opinion and I am sourcing a set of red top injectors. I may try the stock chip later to see if it helps as I think its overfueling at idle and low revs (saw a big puff of black smoke yesterday when I started up. had been sat still since last week though so it may have been some sh*t in the exhaust).

I would approach the guys in Denmark where I got the kit from. R-TECHS http://www.r-techs.dk Søndergade 3 4000, Tune Roskilde Phone: +45 30220220 Email: mailto:[email protected] If you mention Ben from ebay who bought the C30-94 and VR6 bracket, I'm sure you may be able to get a deal. The guy's name is Martin Holmström and he is a friendly chap. p.s I wouldn't approach a UK distrbutor as they seem to be 2 times as expensive.

no one?

This is a pretty handy article Fuel Injector Flow Rates Injectors listed by flow rate, from lowest to highest http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_010 ... larArticle from this it looks like the part num is 0280150945 However they are 14.6ohm impedence, is this high enough?

Will do when I have a free minute! Any idea what the bosch part number for the injector is. I have seen 2 number so far: 0280150945 0280150431 Both red top, 30lb injectors?

Right then, on my trip down to sainsbury's I have confirmed at least 8psi boost (in 3rd gear, but this wasn't at full throttle) Not bad for the standard pulley!

any idea the best place to get a set (cheap)?

the red top injectors are the 30lb ones, yes? I take it these would definately need swapping before a remap?

yeah, the low end torque is insane now! Car drives so differently now, its chomping at the bit to pull away all the time. As you said, the 50mm hose from the charger gives it a huge push down low. 0-60 time must be pretty low, but I will need an assistant to help me time that I think. getting a bit of kangarooing now though, only when easing off the accelerator an then trying to floor it again. i have the 4bar FPR in still, but perhaps bigger injectors may be called for in the future as I'm not sure if the current ones can deliver fuel quick enough in certain situations. a trip up to Vinceville is becoming more important me thinks...

Ok, sorted the stalling Adjusted the dashpot and now it settles down without dropping the revs too far and stalling the car. Just need to run it on vag-com later to check the TPS angle isn't over 14 degrees.