mr_fusion

Right, looks like this thread is being brought up yet again... I have been experiencing really similar problems recently, been through most of the checklist to no avail. I fitted a magnex cat-back, decat pipe and raceland 6 -branch header and new lambda probe recently, all working lovely. Then, recently when pulling away when the car is warm the kangarooing starts when changing up from 1st to 2nd gear (from traffic lights etc). This only happens when pulling away in low gears. If I am a but more sedate on throtttle, the problem I can usually avoid the problem. MPG has also been rubbish (13-17mpg around central london) Other symptom is that the idle rpms will hunt slightly between 650 and 1000 rpm every 10 seconds or so when sitting stationary. VAGCOM was throwing the classic 00533 code - "adaptation limit not reached" (idle), which is why I started with the ISV I know the carbon canister solenoid isn't working as the cable was shorting out and frying the ECU relay 109, so i disconnected it. Would this exhibit problems like I am having. Its been unplugged for several months now (since when the rotrex was fitted on my old engine before I blew it up) and never had these problems till now. Ok, things I have checked / changed: New 2nd hand MAF New 2nd hand ISV New blue temp sensor Cheked ignition switch (which is only 6months old anyway) New wiring to lambda probe (old wiring was down to a few strands) Cleaned out throttle body and associated parts (including new ISV and MAF) TPS is fine. I cracked it open and cleaned it with contact cleaner. VAGCOM shows smooth throttle angle values. I have some blue igniters on the way (should be here tomorrow) and a set of iridium plugs BKR5EIX. I have removed the ISV damper completely now and replumbed the ISV in without it. I pulled the existing plugs and the front three where wet and black, indictating poor spark to these from the leads perhaps? I cleaned up the plugs and leads and refitted, car revs and drives much cleaner and more smoothly now but I still get the loss of power as mentioned above. Dashpot is sticking a little i think as it doesn't seem to be damping the throttle at all now (needs a bit of WD40 i think) I am hoping the new plugs and leads tomorrow will sort the issue, nothing else so far has and its proving to be an expensive month!...

Hello all, been a while since i've been on here due to the C being engine-less for almost 4 months! Thread about all those shenangians is here ... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... 539#674539 **Mod Edit - Please follow the forum guidelines regarding items for sale **

well, well, well... been a while since i've been on here and thought i would revive this thread one last time for an update. Got the C back after 3 months in the garage... new engine from jimmi finally fitted! so back on the road again after what seemed like an age, C is running smooth and strong again with 70,000 less miles on the clock (as far as the engine goes at least). Rotrex has been sat in a box in the cupboard since christmas now. I think I will put the kit I built up for sale in the coming weeks though... as nice as it was having all that power, I think its time to move on for the time being and put the money towards my credit card bill and a new exhaust and bodywork improvements. i will probably pick up a larger 80mm pulley from storm developments for it (so that anyone who buys won't crack their engine block like I did!) Should drop the boost to about 12psi and will be good for around 300bhp. Comment about item for sale / inviting PM removed. Please familiarise yourself with For Sale guidelines, and post a For Sale thread when the time arises! Thanks :) -- Mod Team

How much they doing them for at the moment?

stealth or sd will do the remap no probs... you will need bosch red top injectors as well i think.... I assume they are the same for the R32 as the 12v? Ebay is your best bet for those (guys running V8 engines in the USA)

Bracket, pulleys etc. Everything needed to bolt to the car minus the standard idle tensioner mech and the belt (or maybe it includes the belt) i.e everything shown here...

Looks like you got a bargain there! The oil system seems to be the older type though. You should be able to get a bracket from Storm Dev. I paid about £300 for mine. My new engine aint in yet and won't pick the car up till the end of the month at this rate. I might have to sell me kit to finance the new engine. I will get a larger pulley (80mm = 10-12 psi) for the rotrex anyway as the one I have is too small at 75mm = 15+ psi Engine I got from Jimmi only has 70k on it and has been rebuilt so should be good for charger, just have to see how my finances are holding up! Desperately want to sort my bodywork as priority really, looking well scruffy. I will be breaking my old engine for the rebuilt head etc and I will try and salvage the spacer gasket from C2Motorsport + the ARP head bolts. I will keep you all posted in the coming weeks...

don't see why not. apart from the small clearance issues that need to be addressed at the side of the head, should be no problem.

Engine on its way, should be at the garage tomorrow.. courtesy of the "thieving, modern day Dick Turpin" himself...JIMMI :-) So, hopefully I should be back in the saddle some day soon!

Hey Guys, just noticed this so thought I would get in on the action. rado-steve, The rotrex chargers two tricks are it's size (about the same as an alternator) and the massive amounts of air it can pump out compared to other chargers. The planetary gear system it uses allows a very steep ratio between the input speed from the serpentine belt and the output that drives the actual air compression side of the unit (that takes are from the atmosphere and compresses it into your engine). They are also very very efficient because of this way of doing things) The saga will contiune with my kit once my new engine is fitted courtesy of JIMMI, but thats 2 whole other kettles of fish! but have a look here for the what i have been up to.. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45227 Cheers Lads!

Right engine is now been started up and is deemed to be f**ked. I have PMed Jimmi and will buy the engine off him if its still available. In regards to swapping the coilpack back to a dizzy (the new engine is coilpack obd1 so throttlebody is the same?) is it just a case of swapping bits from the old engine and plugging them into the old harness and ECU i.e the distributor area only or are there other things to consider? Itching to get back on the road now... been 2 months at least!

Cheers for the info Alex, could be the best option. PM sent I asked him whether it was ODD1 or 2 (i am assuming 2 so mods would need to be made to drop it in) I should hopefully find out the verdict later today re: the current engine.

Right then.. Engine has been completely stripped and cleaned internally. The garage has even had an endoscope inside to look for any noticable cracks etc and found nothing. Engine is now being put back together and I will find out tomorrow if any progress has been made. General consensus is that it is a cracked block and is only opening up when warm. I really don't know what to do (if that's the case) and am running out of ideas. either : a) Rebore the 2.8l block he has available and refit that = :-( £££ b) Buy another engine = :-( £££ c) Give up and strip the car for parts + buy another VR6 = :-( pain in the arse + ££ With either of these options I will have to sell my Rotrex kit and I am back to square one again! All the above posibilities are not making me feel too happy...

The garage where its being fixed has a 2.8l golf vr6 engine that they can strip parts off, so may suggest they try the oil pump off that. will see what they have to say as they have had another couple of days to look at it now.

yup, brand new oil pump hoping its not a crack in the block though! will enquire about the cam bearings then...

any thoughts on the cam bearings as I will ask the mechanic to check them if this could be an issue?

ok then.... car still ISN'T FIXED! Bottom end bearings etc have all been done, car put back together , 85psi oil pressure when cold.. (2 weeks ago) next day car started up, oil pressure good for a short time, then dropped back down and rattling started again. (1 week ago) mechanic suspected the oil squirters... engine has been pulled, crank removed, squirters replaced, car reassembled... same as before... low oil pressure and top end rattling.... bugger... is it possible that it is the cam bearings (failed because of oil starvation) and now contrbuting to rattling and low oil pressure? Haven't had a bill yet and car has been at the garage for a month. stumped...

Right then... Car is now in Shropshire, garage can't start work till monday though. Ordered ARP rod bolts for them to chuck on while there at it... pricey! So, hopefully I will know what the problem is early next week and even more hopefully have it back again for next weekend! Then the charging saga can continue.......... lots of shiny bits to fit..

Some good news (of a sort) The AA came out today to assess the situation. Turns out the AA guy drives past me quite often and has seen me working on the car. He said that he thought "that guy looks like he knows what he is doing" as the C is invariably in bits and then back together again when he has driven past again. Anyway, he basically then radioed back and explained the situation. They told him to find somewhere local for repair, but he told them "no, he needs the car transporting to shropshire". So, to cut a long story short, they are sending a transporter first thing tomorrow and are taking it straight up to the garage free of charge! Now that's service for you! Saved myself a lot of hassle and money there I think. Along with the £250 I have been quoted to sort the problem and do the big end bearings etc, this still might have a happy ending... fingers crossed!

Well, here is whats happening.. I have bought an intermediate shaft for £40. Place that did the work last time is fitting it and doing the bottom end for £250! (as long as they don't have to remove the engine). Just need to get the car up to shropshire (140miles), so either: a) get the AA to take it as I have Relay cover (not sure if they will do this yet though) b) cheapest other quote I have had is for £175 + vat to take it on a trailer. Anyone got any other suggestions to get it there?

Bad news then... Changed the gear, greased it well and put the exhaust back on along with everything else and... absolutley no difference with the noise, still clattering away. So it's either the intermediate shaft (possibly bearings) or something situated around that area. Could even be valve related, I just don't know. Looks like I will have to take it somewhere now as it's reached the limit of what I can do with it without pulling the gearbox etc.. :-( :-( :-(

Looking at this page http://www.schimmelperformance.com/Onli ... ngKit.html the intermediate shaft bearings are very simple metal sleeves, so I can't see much having gone wrong with them. I am wondering if a piece of something has got inbetween the two gears and caused them to jam / unmesh at some point, hence the wear to the gear.

Got the new shaft with gear.... No sign of similar wear on this one, so current gear is defo contributing to my problem. New gear teeth are of a slightly different design with a slight bevel on the ends of each tooth. See attached pic. I was also pleasantly suprised to see that they had thrown in the cover and drive shaft for the oil pump as well! (at least I have spares now then :-) )

Just been looking through this again: http://www.the-corrado.net/wiki/index.p ... ent_Part_1 Was wondering how easy it would be to access the intermediate shaft if it is this that is fecked.. nightmare of it is, defo out of my league :-(

Here is a close up pic of the teeth. You can see how half of the surface tapers off to a point, whereas it is flat where there is no wear.