matth76

Thanks.. thats cool then because I'm always very careful to let the oil warm up to around 88/90 degrees or at least 15 minutes. Any idea what might be causing the flat spot or increase in tappet noise? I'm having a new head put on in 6 months which will include new tappets / valve guide etc. I can only assume the slight increase in tappet noise must be down to the different kind of oil they have used.

I let my engine warm up fully for a good twenty minutes or more before I went over 3000 revs. Do you think it's bad to rev the engine high after having the chains and head gasket done? I was told no run in period is required and the engine could be treated as normal as long as it is fully warmed up which I am always very careful to do.

Jesus - did that actually get done in a day - alot of work there, must have cost a bit!! Tappet noise - can't really think of any reason it would be louder usless it's just being amplified by the SS manifold... did the oil get changed and if so what did they use (thinner oils may cause tappets to become noisy) Half your engine has been taken apart today so you really need to get it on VAGCOM to have a look and check everything is responding and go thru the basic settings... No I 'received' it today sorry. They've had it since Tuesday. They did all the fault checks with VAG com and the only faults were related to the throttle body alignment and lamda which were both sorted out and no other faults were present. Could my MAF sensor cause a flat spot (a faulty MAF sensor may well not show up on VAG COM)? The oil they use is 10w40 and semi-synthetic. They said this was better than the Syntha Silva from VW because it has an anti-gunge additive. They did do a complete oil change when they changed the head gasket etc. They said the oil should in fact quieten down the usual tappet noise although maybe it takes a bit of time ?? Would a simple ECU reset solve the flat spot? Thanks for any help.

Hi I've just had a new stainless steel exhaust manifold fitted today to my golf vr6 and had new head gasket and tensioners kit fitted (the kit includes all timing chains). The stainless steel 6 branch looks amazing. I have a couple of questions though which have resulted from my journey home: I have noticed the 'usual' vr6 tappet noise is just a bit noisier than normal (although only if I have the window open and I'm not travelling) but it is absolutely fine travelling along - smooth and quiet as usual, although the VR6 noise does drown out everything else. I've been told this kind of tappet noise is pretty normal by Stealth, and a few other companies. Should it be slightly more noticable after just having had the timing chains and head gasket done? One other thing I noticed today was a big flat spot / no decent power between 1k and 2k revs. After that the needle dives for the red line and I get a surge of power - it's almost as though I have a turbo and I have a bit of lag! The 6 branch manifold certainly increases top end torque. I have been told that the flat spot is likely due to the ECU relearning the fuel air mixtures but I have been driving for two hours on the way home from garage and the flat spot is still there (will it normally take longer than two hours for the ECU to sort things out?). I was told my car was originally overfuelling and this has been rectified by the garage. Could it be perhaps that now the overfuelling has been rectified my car will not feel as quick as it used to in the low down revs? Could it be my MAF sensor that is faulty? The garage did say my original "lamda" sensor was on it's way out so they fitted a second hand one. Could the lamda sensor they fitted be faulty? Either way I am taking it back in 500 miles time for an oil change and to resolve any problems for free. Any input or comments from here though will be really useful so I can ask the right questions when I go back after xmas. Could the flat spot be a normal after effect after having a new head gasket fitted? It is a standard head gasket that was fitted. The garage did re-align my throttle body by the way as well as it wasn't correct before. They did a fault check with my car while it was in and there were no faults - although a faulty MAF won't necessarily show up which is why I think it could be possibly this. The ECU was reset while it was with them but should I do it again myself by disconnecting the battery - would this possibly resolve my flat spot problem? If so, what is the procedure to reset the ECU? Thanks for any help guys. Cheers Matt

What difference will a new flywheel (standard flywheel) make to the driveability of the car? I assume there is no torque or power increase though. At what point can a new flywheel be added? Is it when the gearbox is out? If a standard flywheel (exchange) is £75 - how much would a 'lightened' flywheel be and what are the pros and cons? Is it worth it?

lol Bad luck mate...being in work that is. At least it's Friday though.

Thanks for your replies guys. How would my car feel with a new flywheel?

Hi there, I'm paying £350 for their 6 branch. They aren't charging me to fit it which is good. It's a bit more expensive than other makes as it's supposedly higher quality and more advanced which won't shear like cheaper makes they told me. It's their own design which they have made abroad in China apparently and uses similar flexi joints to the standard manifold but they told me the joints and bolts are actually stronger which use springs to keep it independent to engine movement. My current standard engine mounts are in good condition which they have told me don't need to be uprated. This is something I could get done in the future. How much on average would a garage charge to supply and fit uprated engine mounts (such as Vibratechnics)? Is it an engine out job to fit them and how many mounts are there altogether? It uses the original heat shield. Does the heat shield help to retain heat in the runners similar to 'heat wrap' or is the shield used for something else? Re the metal head gasket - I'm not going for that any more as it would lower my compression very slightly which I've heard reduces total power output (unless I go down the route of forced induction which I may in the distant future) so for now I'm having a new standard head gasket kit fitted and new but standard bolts. I don't have any pics of my engine beforehand but I'll take some of it afterwards definitely. Cheers Matt

Yeah, I'm from the other forum :) I'll have to hope that Storm do test turning it over before putting all the inlet parts back on. They seem to know their stuff though.

Thanks for your reply. Do you think I have to "run my car in" for a certain period as I'm having my head gasket and chains done as well? I'm assuming when I run it in I shouldn't go over a certain number of revs? I'll ask them about the exhaust runners on their manifold. They did say it was specifically designed for the Golf VR6 engine. I do know the FPR on the Golf is 3bar so I'm assuming the fuel pump will also be this pressure. Is there any advantage to fitting an uprated 4bar fuel pump from a Corrado 2.9 and the 4bar FPR ? Cheers for your help.

I'm getting my head gasket and chains done plus a 6 branch exhaust manifold. Would I have to run it in for about 500 or is it 1000 miles? I'm assuming I should not go over 3000revs until this is done? Thank you for any help.

Thanks for your reply. I've just been told by Storm Developments that the 6 branch I'm getting is one of the best on the market today. It's their own design and made in China. It has flexible bolts/brackets/joints that are stronger than the standard ones that use springs to keep it totally independant to engine lump movement because I did ask about stress fractures. It's apparently the highest grade stainless steel you can get (not quite as good at retaining heat as iron but constant bore throughout so will transfer the exhaust gasses quicker.. ) It uses the original heat shield they say so shouldn't need extra heat wrap. Although should I insist on heat wrap? Is it only the top part that connects to the engine lump that needs the heat wrap? They seem a helpful company and told me recently I didn't really need a 'metal' head gasket as the standard one is good enough. Unless I was going down the supercharged route there's no point getting a metal gasket which actually raises compression as it's thinner - costs an extra £100 so I know they aren't trying to sell me everything they can. They deal with Stealth so must be trustworthy (hopefully!). Does anyone else on here dealt with Storm and have worked on your car? By the way what difference to drivability would fitting a Corrado vr6 2.9 fuel pressure valve make to my Golf VR6? Would it improve response to low down revs? I know it won't actually increase power though. Cheers Matt

Thanks for your reply. Is a tubular manifold still more effective due to it being a "6 branch" as opposed to 2? Will a stainless steel tubular manifold tend to last longer on average then the stock one made of iron?

Hi I'm having a 6 to 2 to 1 stainless steel branch exhaust manifold fitted to my Golf VR6 (ODB2). Is this a good modification and what kind of power gains are expected if any - are we talking approximately 5bhp / 5ft/lbs? Will the drivability / throttle response be improved? I currently have a high flow cat and free flowing stainless exhaust system. I'm having my head gasket and timing chains done at the same time and I was told by Storm Developments (the company doing the work) that it would be an opportunity, with the head off, to fit one. It's one of their own make and used on their racing golfs. I also need to know what kind of heat wrap is required (something good quality that will last) or whether some kind of heat shield is better than heat wrap but if so where would it be situated in the engine bay? I'm assuming the standard heat sheild can be still be used? And do the engine mounts underneath where the manifold will be, need to be replaced or is this not really necessary - or do ALL the engine mounts in the engine bay need replacing? Is this something that can be done at a later date or is it far easier to get done while the manifold is being fitted? Is fitting of new engine mounts a quick inexpensive job? Should uprated mounts be used? How long will an aftermarket stainless steel 6 branch last for? Will it last longer than the stock exhaust manifold? Thanks for any help. Matt

I own a Golf VR6. I am thinking of lowering my car but not spending a lot of money on coilovers as I'm on a budget. I am thinking of a decent quality set of 30mm lowering springs. Will 30mm lowering springs make the ride much worse or improve the handling? Also will it look noticably lower with just 30mm? I was thinking about Eibach, Koni or H&R or a similar good quality make. Please can anyone recommend any other good makes (or makes to avoid!!) and how has your car been since adding the lowering springs?

If you haven't heard anything within fourtneen working days you have gotten away with it. By law they have to send out a "notice of intended prosecution" within 14 working days. After than it can be a long time before they take you to court etc.

Hi I've found a UK supplier who can supply and fit an Oettinger exhaust. They're a German make apparently. Does anyone know if they are a good quality build? My car's a 1997 Golf VR6. Is it normal for the engine to be slightly noisy after a journey? After I return home from work if I let the car idle with the engine still running it makes a very faint ticking noise which I have isolated to the main belt on the left hand (driver side) side of the engine...it's either the belt or the motor that drives the belt. The noise is not loud. The car is very smooth and quiet while driving. What does the belt do? ...it is constantly moving while the engine is idling. I know it's not to do with the cooling fan as that cuts in some time later. Are all VR6's slightly noisy under the bonnet on idle? Thanks for any help. Matt

Thanks guys for your replies. I have to admit I was not keen on getting someone to alter my ECU in any way as I have heard mainly bad stories. What modifications are available to reach 200bhp? What is a 'Shrick manifold'...is it a more efficient exhaust manifold design? How much does this cost approximately for someone to supply and fit? Will a bigger throttle body produce good power gains? Again what makes are recommended and what would it cost for a good garage to supply and fit one? If anyone knows of any other modifications and approximate costs plus realistic power gains please let me know. What is the maximum bhp level the VR6 on standard internals can cope with? Does it have a weak spot anywhere? Thanks again for all your comments and replies. Matt

Hi Has anyone fitted a superchip to their VR6? Has it made your car much better or much less reliable?! I've heard mainly bad stories about car's not starting or not being smooth... one of the things that should be sorted out with a superchip (so their website suggests). I've read quite a few sites where golf VR6's are running 200bhp or more... I assume most of this power gain is from a superchip or some kind of ECU remap, as a performance exhaust and air filter only give minimal increase in power (approx 5 bhp) as the standard VW exhaust is very good. Can the Golf VR6 standard ECU be remapped or does it require replacing completely? What other power modifications are available for a VR6? Are there any good tuning companies in or around Sussex / Surrey that don't charge the earth but are very good and reputable, who specialise in VR6 tuning? Thanks for any comments? Matt

Thanks for your replies. So why do you not like it at all when you boot it? Does it get too raspy / 'chav' like? I heard an Aston Martin fly by me the other day and the noise was so loud but amazing... I know I can't get a V8 sound with my VR6 but anything that came close to it I'd buy, no matter how loud. However an Aston Martin at idle is very quiet, unless you floor it. Astons apparently use Magnex exhausts. Is there anybody who knows what sort of performance increase is there with a cat back system? I've been told it may only be negligable such as 1-2 bhp if at all. If this is the case I may just stick with a magnex backbox instead of the full cat back system.

Hi I own a Golf VR6 (I know not a Corrado) but this seems like a really good forum for VW's with helpful members. My car is totally standard and fast however I would like to add a full stainless steel exhaust and have heard good stories about the quality of Magnex, plus my stock one is getting rusty. I want to keep the car subtle with not an overly loud exhaust but I do want it to sound better than standard and louder (I used to own an XR2i with a sportex backbox...it sounded more like a motor bike and was a bit in your face). A friend of mine has a Magnex full system on a Clio Williams and it is actually fairly quiet at low revs but noticably deep which is what I'm looking for. Has anyone got one on their corrado or any other VW ...is it good quality/how is the sound/ and what kind of power difference does the full system alone make in bhp/torque (or is there very little difference?) I was thinking about some kind of induction kit like K&N but don't really want to remove the existing standard air filter housing (as I want to keep mods to a minimum for when I sell the car in the future). Are there any performance panel or induction kit air filters that still retain the original stock air filter housing? Also what does "DTM" stand for or mean when it comes to the tailpipe on an exhaust, as magnex seem to do either twin round exit or DTM exit for a Golf VR6? Does a Magnex "knock" underneath the car, or is it very firm in place clear of the rear valance? Thanks for any help and info to my questions. Thanks Matt ps. Will my car's fuel/air mixture need adjusting after adding a full system exhaust or performance air filter?