matth76

Is Zymol one of the best protecting waxes around? How long does it last and is there a particular type of Zymol that you need for metalic/pearlescent paint? And, other than washing and 'chamying' the car, what preparation is required and how exactly is it applied? Can it be applied with a lint free cloth? And lastly how much is it and how often does it need applying (i.e once a month, once every 2 months etc)? Is it slightly abrasive like polish or is it purely a protective wax? Would it protect against the dreaded birds muck?

Hi I have some scratches on my golf vr6 which are very light but spread over a large area and on different areas of the car. I suspect they have come from a bit of grit in the sponge or chamois when the car was washed. I'm going to give T-cut a go but in my experience T-cut doesn't seem to do anything on my VR with its lacquered paint work. I've thought about paint compound but (although being much harsher than T-cut) I am pretty sure it won't make any head way on lacquered paint either. Does anyone know some good cheap reliable scratch repair companies in Sussex area that you have used and were very impressed with the end result and value for money? Or can anyone recommend any products (will a polish of some kind work?) to try that won't damage my paint work, but work really well to remove scratches..as I'd rather try it myself that pay someone to do it? However I need to know which product to try that will likely work, and which products I should definitely avoid. Cheers Matt

Ok.. it has the following on the 5ltr bottle (which is a silver bottle): Quantum (in big letters), Synta, Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (10w40 is on the back). I'm certainly taking it back as it doesn't say anywhere that it is "Synta Silver" nor does it say semi-synthetic anywhere. It was Caffyns in Goring in West Sussex near Worthing. They are pretty crap normally... but I would have thought selling oil (when it is spelled out to them what I want) would be simple enough... not in this case. It's not like I asked them to find something... I stated what I wanted! They do for a fact treat young women without any respect in there. My gf's commented on how they have been rude in there before... funny enough not when she had her dad in there. I'm after this type of oil because that is what The Phirm use. Thanks for your help guys.

It's the fact my gf specifically asked for semi-synthetic, 10W40, Syntha Silver, for a mark 3 Golf VR6 and they thought they knew best and gave her something that wasn't semi-synthetic. Sounds like they've given her 10W40 non-semi-synthetic and if it doesn't say synta silver on the bottle there's no telling what it is.

Hi My girlfriend went into a Caffyns store today to the Parts Dept to pick up some Syntha Silver 10w 40 (semi-synthetic) engine oil for me. Sounds simple enough... Well not with Caffyns! Firstly the bottle she came back with doesn't even say "Syntha Silver" anywhere on it she said, secondly the Caffyns man told my gf that it wasn't semi-synthetic, and thirdly the man said you shouldn't use semi-synthetic in a golf VR6. How cr*p are they? Anyway I haven't even seen the bottle yet but I told my gf it's clearly not the one and I'm taking it back Sat morning before 11am (the only time they're open at the weekend!) to get a refund. How useless are they... they clearly don't know their ar*e from their elbow. I'm annoyed because I wanted to use some this evening but now have to wait a week before I can get down there when they're actually open. Can I confirm a couple of things: is "Syntha Silver" written on the bottle and is Syntha Silver (for the Golf VR6) semi-synthetic and suitable for the Golf VR6? Thanks for any help. Cheers Matt

Cheers for your replies guys. I agree with your comment about not bothering to tell them - it is just an uprated engine mount. The Phirm told me not to change the rear engine mount as that is directly next to the mark 3 golf's steering column/rack and would cause undue vibrations through the steering wheel. They also said it was in very good condition as it doesn't take the strain quite as much as the other two mounts. I may get it done in the future... how much would it cost for just the Vibratechnic rear mount and how long to fit approx? The Phirm did my other two in half hour. Any other comments on whether I should tell my ins company bout my uprated mounts? Who else is with Elephant and have told them - what did they say? Cheers

The Phirm did uprated Vibratechnic ones on my golf vr and they charged a half hour labour mate. Sounds like you're being ripped off especially as you're only getting standard replacements and not uprated. I had my gearbox and front one done (the only ones that really wear on the mark 3 golf) and it cost a little over 200. Worth it in my opinion as they should last far longer than standard ones.

Not sure mate. I think you have to add postage to it.. Would like H&R colies but don't want to spend too much... just spent out loads on the dreaded timing chains etc! Getting a rolling road and BMC at Stealth in 3 weeks time so yet more money to spend. Next on the list is the suspension then I think I'll be sorted for a while... as I'm looking to buy a house/flat this year.

Hi. Thanks for your reply. I only use my car to commute to work and occasionally use at the weekend. So don't want to get something too expensive which would be very good for the track but pointless for a daily driver. However on the other side I will spend what is necessary to improve the handling and also lower the look of the car. I personally think 30 or 35mm drop will be hardly noticable. The golf vr6 on standard suspension is way too high for my liking. (I have standard 15" wheels by the way.) That's why I like the sound of the JOM's 45mm drop springs (a decent drop) and with the confidence that the quality of the dampers is good with them being koni. So all in all I'm after improved looks (I want it to actually look lower) and definitely improve the handling. I want a firmer ride, less body roll but not one that is too bumpy that I feel every stone. I also want a kit that will last. Hard combo to get right I know.. Thanks for any help. Have there been any bad experiences with JOM products or are they generally very good?

Hi I've seen this link for JOM coilovers which I've been told have Koni dampers (although for some reason it doesn't say this in the first link for the coilovers) but the price looks good: http://www.dpmautostyling.co.uk/catalog ... cts_id=712 Here's a link about the JOM spring/shock kits which does say they use Koni fixed rate dampers. http://www.dpmautostyling.co.uk/catalog ... 20a&page=2 The price is very similar to a GMAX which seems very good but the fact they use Koni caught my attention,and also have a kit that drops the car 45mm which is by far the biggest drop I've seen available for any spring/shock set up for the Golf VR6. One thing that confuses me is that there seem to be kits available for other cars like the older VR6 and basic models of the mark3 golf with a drop of 60mm. But there are no 60mm kits for the later model VR6. Why is this? Is this something to do with the VR6 anti-roll bars or anti-lock braking system? Has anyone used them or know about them? Are they good or bad? Thanks Matt

Sounds like I have mush then more than play. I don't get any metallic clicking sounds, and I certainly go over bumpy roads where I live. Any idea on the cost of a new steering column or how to tighten up my overall steering "feel" on my golf? Thanks for your help. Cheers

Are Koni dampers oil filled? I thought they may have been gas filled.

Hi I'm with Elephant.co.uk (which is Admiral). Only been with them for 6 months so not sure how flexible or good they are regarding certain modifications. My car is a Golf VR6 (mark3). I recently had Vibratechnic uprated engine mounts fitted (front and gearbox mounts only). It hasn't dawned on me that this may affect my insurance as it isn't a performance modification.. just makes the engine parts more reliable... however I always like to be honest just to be safe... should I tell them? Will my new engine mounts make my premium go up??! Cheers for any help Thanks Matt

Probably a cm I'd say, maybe slightly less. Hard to tell really. After a cm the car drifts so I wouldn't say any more than that at all. Is a cm play something that is quite normal? Update: just drove my car and I'd say the play was no more than 5mm, although hard to test as I'm trying to keep an eye on road at the same time lol. But it starts drifting (i.e taking the slack up) between 5mm and 1cm so I'm sure mine is ok. I also drove my gf's new Polo (2 years old) and her steering is far more tighter and better than my golf mk3 but then I guess not only is it much newer but the turning circle in both cars is very different. My golf is a mark3 vr6 (1997). How much is a VAG original steering column (+vat) and how long would it take a garage to fit? Anyone? Is there any way to "beef" up my steering response and make it tighter? Thanks for your help.

Hi I've got a Golf VR6. When ever possible after I have parked up and turned the engine off I twist the steering wheel a bit until the lock comes on (as it does with any car). Occasionally I find the lock doesn't come on no matter how much I twist the steering wheel to get the lock on. My question is..is it damaging to twist the steering wheel too much to attempt to get the lock on? Will it cause undue stress on the steering rack or is the Golf VR6 steering rack very tough? What ever the answer I don't bother putting the steering lock on unless I comes on straight away. My car's steering seems fine with a little play in steering as it has always done. When I turn corners there is no "knocking" sound, only the hiss hiss of the PAS pump which is quite audiable even in half lock. What are the symptoms of a steering rack on it's way out? Is it very easy for the likes of The Phirm to get access to and see what condition my steering rack is in? Are reconditioned racks much cheaper and equally as good? I know Corrado ones go for around £150-200 from ESP and I think GSF. VAG ones are over £800!! How good are ESP and GSF reconditioned steering racks? And how much is the labour to fit one? What exactly is "play in steering", as I've heard other members complain of this sometimes? Is this when you're driving a long and you can turn the steering wheel slightly in either direction and the car won't move, i.e you have to turn it more to actually turn the car? My car has always done that, in fact any car I've owned has done it too. I guess it's bad when it gets to the point when the play in movement gets a bit too large. Is there any way to "tighten" this "play" up without getting a new rack, so as to make the steering far more communicative and responsive (as that is something the Golf VR6 lacks as standard)? Thanks for any help. Cheers.

Nice info here. Does the same or similar regarding mods to improve the handling apply to my Golf VR6? The torque steer in my car is rediculous. Really have to apply the pressure lightly on the gas pedal! When I first got my car I almost spun it on a roundabout not realising how powerful it was off the line. It skidded into the next lane...luckily the car behind could see what was happening and slowed down. That was all in the dry with relatively little acceleration... but first and second gears are very quick. 200bhp in a golf tends to equal a lot of torque steer ! However I have totally standard suspension (other than vag gas shocks). I would certainly like to improve my handling - so is a rear strut brace the first mod I should make? Is this a strut brace that attaches to the top mounts in my boot? Or a brace that sits underneath the car at the rear? How easy to fit are they (many hours labour) or could I fit it, and how much are they? Any recommended makes? Are front strut braces worth it? And how much are rear anti-roll bars and how much labour for a garage to fit or is this something relatively easy that a lamen could attempt? Again, any recommended makes to go for that last? I'm also looking to upgrade my actual suspension too - not sure whether to go for a spring/shock combo or coilovers. I like the idea of konigsport or Highsport coilovers but do coilovers tend to last longer than spring shock combos? Cheers. Ps. By the way what does ATB stand for?

How long would suspension kits (uprated shocks and spring combination) last compared to coilovers on average? Would coilovers tend to last longer or vice versa? Cheers Matt

Hi I can notice a faint consistent hum/whistling noise in the background when my engine is running. I've got a Golf VR6 (1997). It doesn't bother me and is hardly noticable but is there. I may be wrong but the sound seems to come from the passenger side (but that was from listening from inside the car so may be wrong on this). I suspect it is a belt or similar. When I rev the engine at a standstill the faint noise also increases, so is linked to the engine in someway or a belt. I've just had my chains done and clutch. I also have a stainless 6 branch exhaust manifold, which has a different sound when the exhaust gases flow through it. The noise I am hearing today is different. Any ideas what it might be or if it's serious? I don't think it's the fans as I have heard the fans before and their noise is different. Thanks Matt

Does anyone know how much it is roughly? Thanks

Thanks guys.

Make sure you get a second opinion on your engine 'noise' mate as some garages are better than others (I hope it wasn't a VW main dealer that told you that! - VW recently gave my car a 'full' service and neglected to tighten up every single one of my 6 spark plugs!!). Take it to a specialist if you haven't done so already - they will be half the price of VW and far far better. Otherwise if you do actually have a bad bottom end a rebuild would be the safest option as you have no assurance of what condition the new second hand engine's condition really is in. With a rebuild - if done by a specialist like Stealth or The Phirm, and I think you will have a car that feels as good as when it came from the factory - should be around £1.5-2k for a rebuild. Good luck.

Hi I need to get some of the VW semi-synthetic oil for my 1997 Golf vr6 (I assume the oil would be the same for a Corrado vr6). I believe it is called something like "VW Syntha Silver" but not sure on this. And is the rating supposed to be 10w40 or 15w40? Does anyone know how much it is? Thanks for any help. Cheers Matt

Sorry mate... no idea how they did it. The Phirm will have done it correctly I'm sure. I had a drive in it today and it was fine. A tiny bit juddery in reverse or when holding it on the biting point, which I believe is normal so I've been told with new uprated engine mounts for the first couple of weeks. Cheers

Yeah there is but it will take at least a month to get one. I need one definitely before the end of Feb as my car is booked in for a rolling road at Stealth. I want to fit it well before then.

Hi I have a Golf VR6 (1997 ODB2) and want to buy a BMC CDA induction kit for it. I believe the retail price is £160. Are there any cheaper places to buy it, or can anyone get hold of one for a cheaper price and ideally within 2 weeks? Thanks for any help. I live in West Sussex by the way. Cheers Matt