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Hi! Need some help. My ECU if fried. part number is 037 906 022 B. Now i

Thanks on the info. "It's a lot of work and expense." I guess i wont be doing it.

Who can help me out here? I´ve this conversion posted but not details? Can i put a O2M on a Corrado G60? In what cars do i find a O2M gearbox How dificult is it? Any mods necessary? What about cables and linking mechanins? Do you use the ones from the O2M or maintain the originals? Thanks

It can be it!! It controls the FPR.

First check CO. Should be 0.7 . If you dont know how just check some posts here. It affects mixture at idle and half throtle. Do not change to W5DPO spark plugs. This are "hotter", meaning it will take them longer to get hot and thats not what you are looking for right now, although once you resolve this issue you should use them in hot wether and trackdays. Leads may be a problem if they are to old but i would fisrt check and probably replace distribuiter rotor and cap. They are cheap if bought from a bosch dealer (not at VW). Chip maybe overfueling but i would discard it to last. How bad is idle? Maybe you have a vaccum boost leak or timing is to much retarded. But it would only turn your sparks black if you spend much time at idle, maybe city driving? - What you can do here is drive some miles in a highway at cruise speed, stop at a gas station and once engine is cold check spark plugs. Thats it for now!

Well... it was really just to much fuel. So much that the spakrs almost could'nt iginit it!! Problem solved :)

over 1 bar boost? This is whats happening, don't know if its ok or not. At full throtle from lows revs everything is ok. Checked at roling road with wideband lambda probe. I also have a air/fuel ratio gauge in my car, linked to the stock lambda probe (narrowband) and when i go full throtle from low revs the gauge light go green (rich) and stay there. The problem happens when i'm going half throtle, just enough to be already on boost (like 0.7 bar or so) at more than 3000 rpm and then apply full throtle. -- The gauge light will bounce up and down (like at idle) for like 2 seconds and then go green. Don't know if it's ok? would it have anything with the boost going over 1 bar? i know the map end at 1 bar but what happens beyond? does it uses the last values from 1 bar or just shuts down?

i'm refering to a blowout valve, not a wastegate.

does your dump valve expells air at idle?? (jusy a small brise)

anyone ?!

Corrado G60 Turbo went to a roling road. have a strange power hole at 5500 rpm. I already know it has to much fuel.. could it cause it? The images are power test and lambda value. maybe an alternator problem?? doesn't seem so as bat voltage is 12.78 with engine of and 13.56 with engine on at idle!!

i see you have the same cam as i!! piper 285 what chip do you use? what map sensor? (stock 2 bar absolute pressure) what FPR pressure? injectors? as you can read from previous posts i have had problems regarding the chip. Just coundn't take profit from the cam. and what do you mean with bighead?

haven´t dyno yet but expect 230-240 hp the turbo will do more boost. i have it to 1 bar i'm not thinking in going further as i go to track days and besides i still have stock corrado IC an NO aquamist, so i don´t want to melt another piston. i've never tried to retard ignition but i dont think i want to go that way. it is still my dayly drive, and has AC and all!

New turbo Garrett 2554R boost at 1 bar from 3500rpm to redline at 2000 rpm it makes 0.5 bar no more sns chip. it never worked very well at high rpms (it was made for a 260 degree cam) forged wossner pistons lightened flywheel lightened and sharpened cranckcase shrick sport lifters 3.8 bar bosch FPR

I think thats very strange!!! Get a new metal gasket, new head studs AND rectify the head. Keep an eye on the temperature, something can be wrong and overheating may cause the blown gasket, not the other way around. The only other way to blow a gasket is to have to much pressure (300 hp rado) or misfires, in witch case your gasket would be the smallest of your worries as it would probably melt a piston. I've a metal head gasket and was able to melt a piston (on a G60 turboed rado) and the gasket survived!!

Mine's reached 116-118 at ~90 mph = 150 km/h in the highway. In Track-days it went to 128 !! :shock: So i bought an oilcooler and now 102 is the max í've seen. :D I recomend buying and oil cooler with an oil termostat and leave the stock water termostat and fan swicht. That way your car will warm up to operating temperature rapidly (which is good) and than keep there :D

I've been thinking about :wink: this and reckon that i couldn't put a large FMIC :( so what about a smaller FMIC and also keeping the original one!!! :shock: I thought about it because of the Audi TT 225 HP, it has 2 small intercoolers, :shock: each one in front of the front wheels.. soo why not put a front mount intercooler and still use the stock one!!! :) Would it work??

Hi! Have anyone put an FMIC on a Air Conditioned Corrado?? HOW? Regards

Glad you liked it!! 8) Some more information: That drift was made on porpuse. It's a "Brake drift", which involves entering the turn with too much speed with the car alredy unbalanced. It's made in third gear at about 110 km/h ~ 68 mph at enter point... as it is an FWD car it loses speed during drift so exit speed is about 70 km/h ~ 44 mph The tyres are street tyres Bridgstones Potenza S03 Next Track-Day i'll have a mate shoting so will be able get a lot more footage on my Corrado dritfts :D

Wanna see a corrado drifting?! :shock: Me in my blue corrado drifting at a Estoril Race Track during a Track-day :D Download second file. The one named "Compila_o_Track.." http://isabelle.math.ist.utl.pt/~l47710/Cars/Videos At half way the movie.. Dont really know who shot it but i'm must thankfull :)

:shock: What a project!!! Congratulations!! I really dont have the balls to go anyfurther... to much time and worries already... and to much time spent in the garage instead of on the road!!! The problem, the melted piston, was not air/fuel related in my opinion. There are 3 main causes to engine breakdown. 1º- Engine internals can not withstand the energy liberted in the combustion, in this case you get a mechanical failure exp. bent rod 2º- Air/fuel related - engine goes lean, temperature goes high exp. melted piston 3º- (my case i beleave) Stock compression ratio + boost = dynamic compression. If this compression exceedes fuel capacity from selfdetonation (octane rating) = pinging which in turn results in high temperature Damage exp. melted piston, broken sparkplug ceramic By the way, how much hp on you car??

Forgot to say that the melted piston was result of Pinping from to much boost. Also that i thinks its important: If with one pulley you get 0.8 BAR, if you put an agressive cam, with the same pulley, you will not get the same 0.8 BAR. That´s because more air will enter the engine and so there´s less restrition. Keep in mind that with the same pulley the ladder airflow will be the same.

HI! The MAf on a G60 ends at 1 bar !!! See snstuning.com To run 0.9 bar you need the 3.5 FPR. From there you need new injectors. For more that 1 bar you need custom chip for exact max pressure you are using as it will be "inprinted" in the 1 bar entry line. Ok, tou may use 1.1 and have no trouble but you are punshing it! Best regards

Hi people! :D After searching for a long time i realized that´s no information on G60 to Turbo. So after soo many times of collecting usefull information i gathered it was my time so submit some. All information is intended for turboing porpuses After a blown G-lader a built a Corrado turbo. Engine wise mods: stock bottom PG engine; light ported head; "285 pipercam"- its 268 degrees; red top injectors (from G-Werks); 3.5 FPR; SNS Chip directly from USA (i´m Portuguese by the way, sorry for any spelling mistake); no ISV at all; no carbon filter; no catalitic converter; sports exaust; cone air-filter; rerouted air ducts; dump valve; Apex boost valve, stock intercooler... and i thinks thats all the engine mods. So i installed a Garrett T28 turbo from a Nissan 200sx S14 (bought from UK), a Seat Ibiza 1.6 TDI exaust "collector"; a Forge Dump Valve; Apex Boost Valve; red top injectors; SNS turbo Chip and a lot of pipe(air ducts) work. The exaust collector needed some work to clear the admission collector In the end boosted it to 1.1 Bar = 16PSI and got 225 HP at crank :lol: At this point i must say that the bottom engine was stock and had good compression (12 bar across all for cylinders) Then i pumped up the pressure to 1.2-1.25 bar = 17.4-18.2 PSI and melted a piston :cry: (pushing it hard on the highway to unrevealing speeed numbers)!! :oops: These are all TRUE numbers and mods. (So i question some to run 20 :shock: PSI in stock bottoms- maybe ok for 10 secunds runs :roll: ) Next is my project history. All this data is from a VAmag Rolling Road : Stock Corrado G60 - 160 HP at crank + emission crontol devices taken off, rerouted air ducts, no ISV, Chip from sns and 3.5 fpr - 170 hp +"285 Pipercam" 268 deggre, rebuilt charger, 68mm pulley (note: still on stock exaust to this point) - 190 HP + everything above described - 225 HP Hope to be usefull Questions? Comments? (Now, after piston melted, its beeing built up with new pistons, ect and a new Garrett GT28R turbo. this time no more than 1.1 BAR :wink: Sorry for the "collectors" cant remenber the right word :oops: