ardandy

Any idea on an install price for MK4 clock fitted to a C dash?

Mine has started popping (exhuast popping) now, a lot more than it did before. All I have to do is blip the throttle to 2k rpm quickly and I get quite a cool "pop"! Same if I slow down in gear and let the engine go below 2kish rpm, sometimes get a pop then too. Don't think I got that before, cant rem hearing it anyway! When I boot it, change gear, or engine break it doesn't pop then though.

He was thinking more on the dodgy sensor side of things, (did explain but I'm not very technical!) and that the fuel is getting burned in the exhaust??? (might have that last bit wrong) Wouldn't a dodgy fuel/lambda/air sensor ever cause this?

He reckons its not a piston/bore thing as it only does it on overrun and no other time. Reckons it's more likely fuel and not petrol thats burning. Car still runs sweet. We'll see!

Whatever it is, Andy Walker I'm sure will find it. Got plenty of time, I'm off on hols for 10 days so he's got the car for that long. :)

Well, it's going into Andy W at PSI on thurs for his expert opinion. Just had a VAG-COM check done by VW (£36 inc VAT) and the only thing they brought back was a engine speed sensor, which I've being reliably told by Andy W that they didn't have the engine running when it was tested! Monkeys! PSI reckon its a fuel thing rather than oil, as its only doing it after overrun and no other time. Fingers crossed.

this GTX high mile stuff (15w 40) is working a treat for me. Engines much quieter and less blue smoke on overrun. £17 for 5litres from halfords.

I'm doing nothing yet. But as a new dash is out of the ques for quite a while due to finances, I thought it might be possible to just replace the clocks out of a TT/Golf etc. This ques came about because when I spoke to Andy Walker about it he mentioned that the rev counter will be off because of them coming from a 4cyl eng and being put in a 6cyl. Wondered if there was a way around that, other than putting V6 clocks on which are much rarer. (on the TT). Would it be poss to fit (after dremeling) TT or Golf Mk4 clocks in the C's binnacle?

Keep going! Anyone else?

Come across a prob when putting the TT clocks into a VR6. The revs will be displayed wrong because the "ping rating????" will be for 4cyl, yet the VR6 has 6. If this makes sense to anyone, is there a way around it without using different clocks? (Like the MK4 Golf in the TT binnacle)

Just spoke to Andy at PSI Tuning and he says that he should be able to get most if not all VAG (and poss some BMW) dashboards into the C. £1500 for any interested parties! (if you get the parts)

They have fixed cameras now. I doubt someone would be allowed (or would want to) stand in a working car wash and get soaked. Suppose its possible its scripted but they can really wet themselves convincingly! (as in laughing) I think half of it is watching them laugh hard, almost infectious.

I dont think setting fire to the car wash is scripted!

YOU I wanna take you to a clay bar!

With a TT dash for sale it got me thinking. Which dashboards can you fit in the Corrado? I mean, without serious chopping or whatevers done. Nice to have a list. 1, Audi TT 2, Golf MK4 These are ones I know can fit from asking. Ones I'd like to know about, Seat Leon, Audi A3+A4, Passat, Golf MK5???

try g-werkes?

Because I thought if I didn't say the name or put a link up it wouldn't get moved to suppliers. Like here: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... highlight= Mainly put it up to find out if the tyre would fit & be safe.

61 step car wash! Plus, in my autoexpress mag a week before fifth gear was on, it said only 2 people in the country are trained to put it on. So fair play to the guy. Who wouldn't want to be in that position?

These are rated as 82V.

So there could be a safety issue? Especially as it would be normal at the back and these at the front?

Like I said, they're not YOUR tyres!

I wont say because of Darth Mods! But what I will say is that they're not YOUR tyres!

EAGLE F1 GS-D3 195/50 R15 £36 Delivered!!!!!! They are 195-50-15, so on standard speedy's would these fit without any drawbacks?

Found this in an article (it's also buried in another thread). Any thoughts? Is it correct? ------ As a rule, overhead cam (OHC) engines typically require thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to speed lubrication of the overhead cam(s) and valve-train when the engine is first started. Pushrod engines, by comparison, can use either 5W-30, 10W-30 or 10W-40. As mileage adds up and internal engine wear increases bearing clearances, it may be wise to switch to a slightly higher viscosity rating to prolong engine life, reduce noise and oil consumption. For example, if an engine originally factory-filled with 5W-30 now has 90,000 miles on it, switching to a 10W-30 oil may provide better lubrication and protection. For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to reduce friction and drag. ------

Interesting article: Most vehicle manufacturers today specify 5W-30 or 10W-30 motor oil for year-round driving. Some also specify 5W-20. Always refer to the vehicle owners manual for specific oil viscosity recommendations, or markings on the oil filler cap or dipstick. As a rule, overhead cam (OHC) engines typically require thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to speed lubrication of the overhead cam(s) and valve-train when the engine is first started. Pushrod engines, by comparison, can use either 5W-30, 10W-30 or 10W-40. As mileage adds up and internal engine wear increases bearing clearances, it may be wise to switch to a slightly higher viscosity rating to prolong engine life, reduce noise and oil consumption. For example, if an engine originally factory-filled with 5W-30 now has 90,000 miles on it, switching to a 10W-30 oil may provide better lubrication and protection. For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to reduce friction and drag.