lottysvdub

mines got 176882 on the clock , with full vw history and still going strong :clown:

my second cars a 24 year old bmw m6 , now she is fast !!! :evilbat:

i dont know what your problem is ! :flower: ive got the ultra rare power plant from diddy kongs cart , its a v2 67valve race prepped lump that is fuelled by coconut milk and stilton cheese :cuckoo: oops just got the clue how stupid do i feel :oops: but honest me engine is super fast if you want to give it a go :nuts: stilton does stink a bit when its burning at 2000 mph though :nuts:

what engine have you got if it a 2 ltr 16v then all you should need is the rocker gasket and you would also need the gasket between the inlet manifold and the plenum chamber , this is the part of the in lnlet manifold which sits on top of the rocker cover , fairly straight forward to do :Fade-color

huh ?? huh !! :cuckoo:

pizz my nizzle off , cool dude cool :rainbow1:

not sure what there supposed to do but it sounds like my 92 2ltr 16v :rainbow1:

my car didnt like the temp the other night -6 , went out in the morning car wouldnt start so i pushed it out the way to get me other car and there were 2 core plugs sitting in the icy puddle looking at me all sad :lol!: , not impressed with the previous owner or my self for not checking the bloody antifreeze ,sorry selbekk not much help to you though buddy :shock:

sorry ive not got back to you sooner , just put the timming belt back on , and leave everything else of , you shouldnt need to even put the rotor arm and cap back on , just the basics no manifolds or hoses , no sensor wires and no fuel lines , i wound suggest poping the head nuts back on finger tight to stop the head liffting so much it damages the cambelt . the oil you put down the chambers will increase the compression enough to raise the head off , try a little oil to start and if not successfull increase the amount of oil , turn the engine over by hand before using the key if the engine locks theres too much oil , just pop out the plugs and spin it over a couple of times to clear the excess oil . good luck im sure it wont take you long to move it and let us know how you get on :usa by the way take care when doing this as its quite messy :splat:

ok if you get the engine back in to a state were you could spin it over leave the plugs out and spin it aver this will blow out all the crap from inside the cylinders , you dont need the manifolds back on so some of the crud will come out of the inlet manifold , the rest will come out the plug holes , take care as it will come out with some force , when you dont have any crop or vapor coming out the plug holes then drop some clean oil through the plug holes ,pop the plugs back in and spin the engine over and im sure this will move the head , trust me ive been doing this fot 20 years , go on buddy give it a go . :doc:

sorry for my ignorance but is your head held on with nuts on the studs ? , as usualy you would have head bolts to hold the head down which when removed would allow the head to come off , any way some thing you could try is to get the engine to a condition were you could turn the engine over using the ignition key , poor some engine oil down the spark plug holes and put the plugs back in , dont put to much oil in as you could cause damage to the engine , when you have done this make sure you have all the head nuts / bolts loose or off then spin the engine over . this will usualy lift off the most stubbon heads , like ive said before only use small amounts of oil and make sure the plugs go back in , the theory is that head bolt s off , oil in chambers increase compression , when spun over the head should lift off , give this a go and let us know how you get on . :onfire:

:onfire: my 2ltr 16v likes to pop back on over run and if shes really rude a big burp of flame about 1 ft long , great fun in the dark but does attract attention from the boys in blue :lcop: , in fact the 1st time i realy knew it was doing it was when she scorched the front bumper of a following panda car when slowing down at a set of lights to stop !!! they wernt impressed but i was chuffed to f**k and couldnt stop laughing even when given a producer buy my new frends ha ha . :onfire:

enjoy yourself and look out for those sneeky sods :snipersmile: :lcop: who like to take your piccy when your having fun :rabiit:

top mounts are not hard to fit if your changing the struts then your basicly going to have the top mounts off , prices or from as little as £10 and go up to around £100 for the dogs danggely bits type , gsf supply the cheapest but they dont last for years at a time they tend to wear out quickly , konis are the dogs bits again especially if there adjustable , and 17" are class you might feel the bumps more but they look cool . :multi:

is the steering wheel on a full lock when its doing this noise , as mine used to make a rubbing noise when doing this sounds a little like a groan , turned out to be badly worn top mounts causing front wheels to rub slightly on full lock when in reverse

:offtopic1: hello again saw my frendly snap on dealer today and nearly passed out a 2nd hand scan tool will only cost me £1000 plus vat and he coudnt even tell me if it would work on VW but best of all a new one will and he only wanted £1700 plus vat for it what a bargin eh chaps , so as you proberly guessed i told him were he cold put his scan tool !!! , never mind im still looking ,e bay may be an option , let us know if any one has one locally , i think snap on are the best tools about and no doubt theres not a lot you couldnt fix with it but it still wont fix my bank balance if i buy one and i might end up with a divorce " there is a reason for buying one " cheers chaps :iamwithstupid:

:multi: if you fit taller springs then this should soften up the ride but if your doing that you should change the top mounts , there very easy to do and when i changed mine it made the car totaly different , i could drive over man hole covers with out having to brace for impact which was realy nice as theres only so many times you want to try and remove a corrado from your butt !!! :multi: personaly i would look at these before spending out on springs and shocks :multi:

no problems just let me know were and when mate

top mounts took me about 1.5 hours about 3 weeks ago to do both sides and i took my time as i cleaned up all the suspension components and brake parts when doing it , not hard to do just make sure you have correct tools and a decent pair of spring compressors , even though i didnt need to use them on mine as the lowering springs on my car are so short i didnt need them :drinking:

you can check the lower ball joint the same way when the cars jacked up get some one to rock the top and bottom of the wheel in and out while your looking at the lower joint , or place a decent size lever bar between the ball joint on the lower arm and the wheel hub and lever up and down , some tomes this is more evedent when the car is on the ground , so you may struggle to do this , also check the front roll bar droplinks , with the car on the ground grab hold of the droplinks and pull them or try to wiggle them. if they move easiry then there worn , while your doing all this you may as well check the lower wish bone bushes , when car jacked up turn wheel on to a lock so you can see the wish bone bushes and physicly try to wiggle the wheel , if the bushes are worn you will see the wish bone move , hope this gives you some thing to look for and if you can get access to a ramp it will make it a lot easer to do , if not 20 mins scrabbling around on your back should find some thing ,good luck mate :robot:

as dr_mat says could well be you top mounts on the shockers , if you jack the car up and grab hold of the top and bottom edges of the wheel can you get any movement if you try to bounce the wheel up and down , this you will have to put some muscle in to to get it to do it . also check that when you jack the car up watch the top mount in the engine bay , does the mount travel down wards through the suspension tower , if it does then theres a good chance that the mounts are shot . :clown:

well i havent got a diagnostics reader personaly so i carnt do much there at the mo but i do know a nice snap on dealer who might be able to help out , will be seeing him tomorrow , if you want me to pop over some time to take a look im more than happy to , i mean cars are only nuts and bolts and electirics will only make you jump once , i know this from past experience !!!! i live not far from bournmouth so if i can help please ask mate . also the bonus is i know were my arse is and my elbow , well thats another story :splat:

just a quick one make sure that before you put the engine flush in you remember to fill up with oil , yep it means two oil changes but you only need to replace the filter on the second oil change . :thumbleft:

mk 3 shocks and spring should fit your car as they are the same , you will lose the ride hight of your car , which wont be a bad thng as 90mm is very low , mine was lowered by 50mm and this made my car beat severn bells of c**p out of its self on bumpy roads , also check out your top mounts on the shocker as if these are badly worn then this will also over emphasise any bump in the roads 0X

8) if the pick ups dirty it should be obvious to see , you could clean of the strainer with carb or brake cleaner and some rag , if you take the strainer off make sure that the oil ways are also clear , when you have done all that and put it back together i would recommend puting a decent engine flush through the engine and leave it running for around 20-30 mins on tick over , keep an eye on the engine coolent temp , dont be tempted to drive the car with the flush in it as you could wash the bearings clean of oil ( not a good thing ) drop the old oil out and change the filter ,put some nice clean engine oil in job done . Also good way of checking for air/vaccume leak is to have the engine running and carefully spray some carb/brake cleaner or even something like WD40 along the pipe work and any joints and even around the inlet manifold , if you have a leak the engine revs will increase due to the spray being drawn in . Again take care as remember the spray is very flammable and we dont want any mishaps do we . :roll: