Campbell0240

18 day after test 1.8 16v £2700 tpft adrian flux 18 passed test 2 months before £3500 tp adrian flux 1.8 20vt 6 speed/dta 260bhp post code for the area with highest crime rate in europe though at the time. 19 1 years no claims bonus adria flux £2700 tpft 2.8 stage2 supercharged VR/schrick/cam etc 300bhp+

Kevs right, quoting book figures on 0-60 and 1/4s will never prove much and you'd be loooking at a good 50bhp difference for a car that weighs similar before you'll be pulling away easily and kicking somethings ass you'll need alot more (thats assuming power delivery is the same n/a vs turbo boost etc) its all proportional aswell 20bhp aint that huge of a difference to cars pushing 200 and to cars pushing 300 its even less an so etc.

Corrados are old cars they definatly have their faults, Their looks i personally find much nicer than a 944 or fiat coupe to be honest i'd like the mrs to have somethinglike a fiat coupe but i wouldnt have one myself. The "kick the living daylights" comment is a laugh realistically you have to have a fair chunk of bhp/weight over another car to kick the living daylights out of it and thats assuming your talking about a fair "test" drving a fiat vs a VR would definatly feel faster, its a turbo its going to kick you in the ass its the nature of a turbo, my 20vt rado felt alot quicker than my S/C schrick'd VR but it simply wasnt. Take any of my mates in the car they thought the turbo was amazing just because it put them back in their seat with a thump. The feel of a car driving is completely different than the actual road pace truth is your senses are pretty crap at detecting speed :( without looking at the speedo lol. Truth of it is these days you can pick charged VRs or cheap VRs and cheap chargers up for peanuts and its easy enough to setup yourself. Standard though obviously the fiat is quicker, personally from working in a garage though and working on them and with 2 of my mates having them i'd rather take a rado for an MOT than any Fiat :? The 944 is a cracking car, overlooked far too often and ahead of its time well balanced good handling and tidy peformance with the scope to improve, also i love the 80s flared arches look. If you want a turbo setup and something you can just cheaply tune re-map/chip and use as a boost boat i'd go for the 944, if you want outright performance, no replacement for displacement as the yanks say and you can see a VR to the 300bhp mark for the cost of a standard VR 2 or 3 years back.... an well they look better right? lol

I've done a few different worded searched and though red rear lights are mentioned time and time again i've failted to find a topic which describes what paints to use/buy.? Another question i havent managed to clear up is will Pug' green indicator bulbs fit a rado? an solve the colour issue? I've been to my local halfords had a look around its mostly car paints didnt know if these would keep the lenses translucent or make them opaque? Any tips/advice would be much appreciated. Another issue is i've began polishing my schrick manifold and i've gone through various stages of sandpaper and wet&dry i've seen metal polishing paste metnioned whats the best stuff to use?

I thought they killed off most ill cattle when the foot an mouth broke out? obviously some slipped the net :roll:

Some people just watch fast and the furious too much, he didnt seem to grasp the concept of power delivery just hang onto the stats and what someone once said in an magazine :roll: Hondas are brilliant cars dont get me wrong i'd like an S2000 as a daily an compared to BMWs Z's or porsches boxter i'd prefer the honda as a convertable. An yes they do get alot of power out of n/a small size lumps :roll: thats their problem though you gotta spend big bucks to lower compression and go the F/I route because hondas already released most n/a ponies your guna get. The integ specifically was designed for what it does best and well its good at it. Like everyones pointed out though when your not revving the tits off them they're useless :? My old Nugget 1.8t Rado with a 6-speed 02m around 250-260 bhp used to eat them in the streets and though it might not have cornered as well (thats more down to the driver at the time though realistically) it would always be a corner or two ahead so it wouldnt matter. Thats when i was 18 now i've grown up 21 :-P in a S/C VR with a few other mods i wouldnt even consider that poor fool a threat nor many other hondas to be honest. Im sure theres plenty of slightly modded Vrs and even more modded G60s that would deal with them just as easy. I'd rather throw money at VAG lumps in a number of cars, mk1s/rados/rallyes/golfs and see alot better returns performance wise that a novelty teg. oooh look a civic in wolfs clothing :roll:

Thanks man very informative post, i know the prices of the bits separately and obviously the reciepts for thinks like the chains tensioners and the re-build etc. As for the rest of the car i've put all new brakes on it for now its finding some bigger ones that will fit tidy with the wheels but its sitting on a koni sport kit its had a new subframe bearings tie rod ends ball joints most of the moving parts are new and it would probably have the likes of a 6 branch de-cat and oil cooler going on soon with maybe better suspension, the paintwork is very good on the whole and the bonnet as only the od minor chip i'd be looking to maybe get the bumper smoothed out and the roof.

No offence, but i'd be dissapointed, and the 2.9 on the drive ran 208 and later 210 with just a K&N so i'd expect more from an engine like that and they are higher angle cams 268s not 248s obviously the difference throughout the rev range would be smaller but obviously top end when the engines pushing in as much as it can then there would be a difference. To be honest arguing 10 or 20 bhp on cars putting out that power on FWD we may as well be arguing tyre tread lol or whos fat and whos skinny. If power was such a big issue then it really wouldnt be worth spending money on corrados with the engine in the front would it? I like corrados because of the character of the car and if i sell this one im thinking of buying a mustang GT and playing about with the kits they bring out for them for power (would like one before im 21) and building another corrado on the drive and with an engine in the back. This is my third corrado from my first year of driving, 16v, 1.8t and this SCVR. im definatly hooked. So back on topic.... i know im better off breaking it but whats it worth as a whole?

They add 20bhp to stock motors and they're a very basic mechanical component obviously its all down to the condition of the enging when you see figures that differ in 10-15bhp on stock vrs running different filters and zorsts :roll: Put it this way i ran it without the manifold and cams as i had to order a new schrick switch unit and the difference in top-end is easily noticeable just as much as the mid-range. At the moment the rear of the interior is mostly stripped out and all that remains is from the front seats forward, with a brand new filter the MAF just having been off and cleaned along with the TB charger manifold new plugs and leads it runs really well and a new lambda to go on soon (replacing a GSF one) and on new rubber and a big enough footprint to get the power down it flies. Definatly pics up nicer than my previous 1.8t rado but i miss the 6-speed box. As for it being a 2.8 theres a spare re-built 2.9 on the drive so unless i sold it really soon it would probably go as a 2.9 anyway.

Have no problem keeping you in mind, and i have no problem with a nice G60 either if i decide to sell i'll let you know mate.

Havent had it on the rollers myself yet the previous owner rekons over 300 and i wouldnt disagree with that having obviously driven it. The re-build is no doubt expensive but like i said its done by NSR the same people who set the charger up and though theres a few areas i plan on spending a bit of money even before i sold it thats if i do then the big bucks have been spent in the right places.

I know i built my old 2.9 head for alot cheaper but i guess thats the costs you pay to have it done by pros.

Never really been a fan of these threads but looking for a rough value of my car at the moment: 1994 Aqua blue pearl VR6 105k miles 2.8 OBDI coilpack golf engine 100k miles just done 6K since a top end re-build by NSR at the cost of £3500 Stage 2 Vortech supercharger kit done 6k Schrick manifold and cams Scorpion cat back zorts system. On Borbet As 16x9s all round Loads of new parts plenty of reciepts chains just done with heater matrix etc all electrics work only late black cloth interior at the moment. couple of pics http://veedub_rs.users.btopenworld.com/ ... age160.jpg http://homepage.ntlworld.com/martin.cam ... %20010.jpg http://homepage.ntlworld.com/martin.cam ... %20012.jpg Basically thinking of selling maybe the end of the year or next summer i know the parts are worth alot but after the effort put into it im not really up for breaking it.

I've recently changed mine and i found i had to crack the frount mount and jack the engine slightly out of the car to remove the alternator bolts its nothing to complex but you'll probably need to take the lights grille slam panel off etc. Managed it in just over two hours but i had to take a charger off aswell.

Hi guys, i've recently replaced my 2.9 vr6 engine out f my corrado with a 2.8 stage 2 supercharged lump. I replaced the battery at the same time and its lasted some time but recently as i've ben driving back and forth the garages its started to lose charge it seemed to completely run out and when i started it after charging it for 15 minutes it didnt seem to last anymore than 5 minutes it would cut out as the car was going? The garage put a voltmeter across the battery to show it losing charge i just wondered how i test the alternator or any common problems that occur? I do have a spare alternator off my 2.9 vr lump but i believe its a 70A not a 120A thats on the 2.8 i've put in? would that be sufficient? Which leads to the next question how do i properly tension and release tension from the SC on the belt?