Dubsingh

ok i have had this on neaarly all my vw's, it looks like a sump leak and afer replaceing the gasket and all it ended up being the rear crank seal which is a box of job, so if your due a clutch change any time soon it be worth doing it. i have always replaced the seal atleast the once when i have done the clutch jut to have the peace of ming, the seals around 8+vat quid from GSF

just read the adjusment thread , i will have to have alook tomo, but i dnt see why as i dnt tamper wiv nething under the gaitor and it was workin fine when i took the box off the car, lets see i will have to play around with it, seems like its the side to side movement thats causing the ball ache

whoopee (ish) i got the car running sounds real good good compression all round and the engine aint breathing its guts out. how ever i left the car running for a good hour and a bit while i cleaned out the intercooler and bits just to give the oil a chance to get everywhere properly. whilst this was happning the charger started sounding funny, its had new seals and apex strips looks ok but sounded like the scrol was slapin the casing sprayed some ptfe based lube in and it eventually went quite, i knw the thing was ok when i took it off could something have gone wrong whilst its been sitting the a while????? i dnt think i can put of the visit to gwerks to long, soon as she gets on the road and is drivable she is going for a second opinion check up. another bug bear is the transmision, i dnt lossen an thing of the adjusment just pulled the circlip out and took the cable of and the counter weight side cable i marked before i to it of, how my reverse has gone cnt fing it and in its place i have first, i over adjusted the cable and managed to get reverse ok, but firt is still only in gear when i push the stick down and over as if i were putin it into reverse, what have i not checked or done wrong???

hi everyone i have tried to do a search to see if i can find out the order in which the vacuum pipes go on on the back on the TB, where dose the one from the carbon canistor go adn which nipple does the one from the ecu go? many thanks in advance

hi again am i right in lining up the tdc at the notch marked 0 on the fly wheel?...

thanks for that i shall have alook today

Hi all i have manged to get the engine back togehter and in the car....but just trying to find out how to go about timing it, i knw the basic procedure for say the 16 valaver but just wondering whats the process with the g. there dosenot seem to be a mark on the rocker cover like the gti and im not sure about the positon of the inter chaft notch, the pully seems to have two tdc marks???? really confused and i dnt wana get it wrong now esp afte spend buckets on rebuilding many thanks in advacne

well managed to get box and engine back into the car just waiting to get new driveshaft bolts and DX pully bolt had to repair the front cross member as it looked worse the swiss cheese. amazing what you can do with fiberglass. will have to do for now til i can afford to get a replacment might get that chromed before i put it on. ok peeps managed to get the picture of the broken wires for the lambda sensor plug of the car loom not sure where the wires go so any help would be great, also which hole dose the vacum line fron the ecu go onto on the inlet mani? many thanks in advance

yup balanced along with the fly wheel with a little lightning not to much. the pistons get lie that if the car has overheated. i knw the guy i bought it from overheated it as the bills showed new water pump thermo stat, tempratre sensors etc etc

think heres the reason why the charger filled up wiv oil on long motorway drives esp underload....and to think iv changed the seals twice on the charger :( :( :( but on the bright side i will have a spankin new engine :lol: :D

gus could someone kindly post a clear pictur of the lamba plug on the car loom plz i have wo broken wires and not sure where they go. cheers

i like that to thing is my rallye has a vr lump in it and i am in the middle of rebuilding that so as soon as i get to the engine i will be doing the same....well the chains and the steam seals...the engine only has 65k on it but iv driven it hard as the charger adds quite a punch to the ohhh so sexy note of the 6 pot. my thread for the rallye can be followed here http://www.edition38.com/forums/index.p ... llye%20vr6 not sure if this vid will play

some reverse order pic thread here i knw sorry..here are the old bits out from the block and the state of the piston shos what the other three were like too..... messed up pistons (no wonder i only had around 60 - 105 on the compression test) the new custom pistons that i got from philT of this fourn man was a life saver...and helped my pocket a bit absolute bargain... shall have pics of the engine and box bolted into the car tomo just gota pick up the nerve to do the head now thng is i speand more time cleanin that i get carried away....guys again if there are any pitfalls that i should be aware of when i have her bolted up and ready to fire for the first time plz feel free to advice me many thanks in advance

a pic of he car in question...thought id bought a bargain buti dnt think id get screwed ova by a fellow dubber :( :( ...oh well at least i will have a raddo wiv 0 miles on it engine and another 100k plus to enjoy (well thats the idea)

my new pistons and yes i knw i been sniffin sumin white engine block lol

hi all i have just 80% completed my engine rebuild, just gona pop the old stem seals out and put the new ones in, as i checked my head and its not warpped so id rather not get it skmmed after reading a few other threads which say not to do it unless really needed. cleaned the face using a super flat block with fine grade emery to clean any muck off. right there are a few questions that i have, as the car has been sitin still for over a month now witht he bat disconected will there be any funky procedure i need to follow when all is connected up again? is the timing as simple as the gti valver? or is there a special procedure for the g60 any hints and tips will be greatly apreciated., surely after i get the head connected i wil have some wiring questions as i think iv forgoten where some go...but ill ask as i encounter them pics of rebuild to follow

dnt wana burst your bubble im rebuilding on a budget...there no such thing lol even just going over size 2 on the original piston has cost me a a fair bt to do. i got lucky and managed to get holf of a bored and honed block with cuatom pistons for 150 quid....the original invoice for the pistons shows over 300 quid. im sure when i asked about the bore and build its i was told id need to adda nother 100 quid to it as they are for standard gti engines not g60. so far i would say iv spent 500 quid and the engine istogheter and the head is done too but i ported and polished it my self (a pain in the ass) i reckon another 200 quid to cover other little bits and ill be done

great went to GSF to find the engince gasket set is on back order...luks like il have to recycle some of the gaskets then.. any suggestions guys as the stealers want to sell me the componet with the seal (pointless really aint they made enuf money already)

i thought lets not skip on lil things like seals and orings etc. but your right i dnt knw what i was thinkin lol. when gsf is fine.

pm me if your still stuck

been to the stealers for some seals etc...iv been told that they no longer supply the rear crank seal (large one) unless i buy the whole ally housing at 75 quid....wot a joke... i remember i bought this seal for my valver some time back from GSF for 7 quid...am i right in thinking this seal will work...i dnt see vw altering the dimension of the 1.8 crank :? :? anoher seal that is causing a ball ache is the water pump o ring between block and pump...this also is not available from the stealrs wots going on???

ok i had the same problem. i have replaced two sets of seals now. only to find that my engine was breathing heavey hence the oil in the charger.... did you make sure u took the IC of to drain all the oil out of it?, id clean all the pipe work and IC. clean out the charger as well... and before you connect all the pipe work run the car so you can see whats coming out of the charger...if any seal is buggered you will see oil streamin out.

pg 1.8 g60

Hi guys im after a few tourqe settings just started rebuilding my bottom end i need 1, tourqe settings for the conrod bolts 2, tourqe settings for the oil jets 3, tourque setting for the main bolts that hold cranl shaft many thanks in advance

not sure ....may be diff inorder to achive the 0.1 on the 2.8 lol....i may stand corrected