biggrim

Check the ecu fuse relay. Think it's third form the left at the top of the main fuse box.

It connects on the side matey. Next to where the outlet is (right hand side as you look at it). The rubber pipe goes into the ecu under the scuttle tray on the far right of the bay as you look at it.

The hose you are holding is the ecu vac hose and needs to be exactly 1m long. It goes on the top nipple of the throttle body. Needs to be fastened well at both ends.

Man that's crazy! I take it thay've taken the best bits from a wrecked xj220 and stuffed it in the transit? Awesome idea!!!

My mate had a 4.0 litre chim and it was rapid. 240bhp in a car that is just over 1100kg = instant facelift. He never had a serious problem with it in the year and a bit that he owned it. Leaky windscreen and flat battery were the only 2 problems I knew about that were both easily sorted. Awesome sound and total head turner. Services were expensive though and as you'd expect, drinks petrol like nothing I've ever been in.

Check this out http://www.bornrich.org/page/13/ A GUY'S GOT SOMETHING SIMILAR IN HIS fOCUS

What kind of C do you have? I'm guessing it's a G60

Check the ECU relay fuse. Could have a dry joint or not be plugged in properly. Not sure where it is on the VR but on the G60 it's the top row, third from the left.

Quick update for you all. VW dropped my car off (complete with scraped lower front spoiler and broken centre tunnel) on Friday. A quick call to Darren at g-werks and I checked over a few things I managed to get the car started. It died after a few seconds but we did better then VW. Darren said to double check everything we looked at and call him back with an update. Roll on Saturday and car not playing ball after changing bts and coil lead. After looking at the fuse board, I unplugged the ecu fuse relay and put it back in. Car fired up and ran perfectly. So the problem all along appears to be that fuse relay. I think it's a bit dry as the car did cut out and only start after wriggling it for a bit. So it would seem that the problem has been a slightly ropey ecu fuse relay. I just want to thank everyone for their help with this, especially Darren at g-werks for taking the time over the phone to talk me through a few things. You are a legend mate! I'll be writing a letter to VW to voice my anger over how they couldn't find the simple problem over 2 days with a senior technician on board. I WILL NEVER TAKE MY CAR TO A DEALER AGAIN!

Cool, cheers matey

What and where is the hall sender and are they expensive?

I'll clean the co pot this arvo Henny cheers. I gave Darren a call last night as i was collecting it from vw and wanted his advise. He said to call him back when I got it home to go over it. Only I never got it home. The car is now not starting. There is no spark! Could it be the coil? I'm going to give Darren a call later when I get home but in the mean time (other than a gallon of shell's finest and a match) any ideas?

VW don't have a clue what's wrong with it! Diagnostic has come back clear after replacing the battery. I'm going to collect it tonight as I'm not having them keep it doing nothing to sort it. They told me that the car is not standard and in order for them to properly check it, I need to put the car back to standard. All it's got is a Jabba rebuild, chip and 68mm pulley and boost return kit (which confused the hell out of them). I need to part with £115 before I'll get it back and in no better shape than before it went in. Any suggestions?

i'LL LET YOU KNOW WHAT VW SAY ABOUT MINE

Henny, this sounds like how mine is running (oh bugger) and it's in at VW today getting diagnosed. They've told me there is a problem with the battery and further checks need to be done once that is replaced. Could it be the battery? (Silly question perhaps)

If you look up kevhaywires gallery, he's carried out a lupo rear wiper conversion.

Ever spoken too soon? Took the out yesterday for some petrol. Started fine, and ran fine to the petrol station. Filler her up with the usual optimax and ran fine almost all the way home again. Was approaching a set of lights and I turned to my fiance and said "I'm so glad the car is running ok again and I pull up to a set of lights without getting embarrased". Stopped at the lights and what do you know....... started running like poo again!!!!!!!! So the saga continues for now. Cheers

Cheers matey. Funny story though. Took my car to work on friday (reluctantly) and as usual was runnung like a bag o' poo. On the way home from work, running like a bag o' poo untill I slowed down for a set of lights at red. There was a huuuuuge backfire and a bit of black smoke came out the exhaust. To say I shat my pants is an understatement! Stopped at the lights and the car idled perfectly. Took off from the lights perfectly and drove the rest of the way home perfectly. The car is booked in to VW on Wednesday and I'm still going to take it to get checked but I'm just wondering what the hell is going on. Is there a chance that the dodgy lambda wiring being the problem was causing the car to overfuel and therefore sooted up the engine/plugs etc and when I fixed the wiring it just took some time to clear the system out it'self???? I hope that it runs ok today (not at home just now) and when VW test it, nothing comes of it. Super confused but happy that it seems to be running ok for now. Will keep you informed.

Booked the car into VW for a diagnostic. £49 + V.A.T. I need to get it sorted and my work are giving me hassle to get it done asap. My work are paying for the diagnostic to find out the problem and then I'm paying for the actual repair. It's going in on Wednesday 9th. Wish me luck.

Ok, checked the lambda again only this time I connected the multimeter correctly. I got a reading of between 0.55V and 0.69V. Does that sound ok? Starting to suspect the timing or the knock sensor however I can't rule out the bts. Supercharged said put it in a pan and test it but I'm not sure what exactly he means. What could cause the timing to suddenly go out?

I think a constant 0.36V means that the lambda is dead matey.

Checked the lambda tonight the way you said Henny. Didn't really do much tbh. It didn't sit at 0.36V but it didn't exactly fluctuate between 0v and 1v either. Am I perhaps doing something wrong?

So I can put the multimeter on the purple connection at the engine mount plug and then the -ve on the battery to get a reading?

Henny, you think I should take out and clean the lambda sensor and the plugs just to be sure it's not them? Have you had a read at a few posts up?

I had a chat to furkz late last night and he reckons it might be the knock sensor. I had a look today at what I hope was the knock sensor. Just to the right of the alternator on the front of the engine block held on with 13mm bolt???? Unplugged it and had a look at the wiring up to the plug. There are about 3 bits of the inner wiring exposed (the metal looking stuff) and I wonder if this might be the culprit. I've taped these areas up with insulating tape for now but I don't think it's made any difference.