mbaker8v

No you're right, you waste your money on stroeve induction kits trying to make your 8V faster instead. I wasnt trying to make it faster kev, just wanted the noise.. anyone who has any idea knows that an induction kit CANT make a car faster cos the design of hte airbox's and filters now is about as good as it gets, same with the exhausts... And as i said, my VW wipers are as good as wipers get, so get off your soap box, your NOT always right!!!!

Am i the only one who thikns £80+ on wipers is just a little bit stupid??? I have all original VW wipers and theres bugger all wrong wit hthem, they wipe all the screen, dont lift off the screen at speed and are cheap, and no i havnt bent them or buggered about apart from grinding a bit off the edge of hte internal cam in the arm...

The genesis will kick the others into next week, both in terms of sound quality and build quality. Having said that, i dont think a profile 4 has the power to do teh JL justice, but will be prefect for your components. Is also worth looking second hand at something like http://www.talkaudio.co.uk There are some "old skool" beauties going for sale all the time, such as my Phoenix Gold MS2250 i just picked up for £250, that can easily put out well over 1000Watts RMS into subs...... Dont think you have to buy brand new. Mark

Only after you have closed all the doors and windows though...... :lol:

Well if you really believe that stuff then your engineering major must have been a major laod of cack!!! First off, how does this mysterious "gas" disperse through metal int othe engine but not escape through the tubes?? I only read the first part of the Wiki, thats all I could stand.... If this really worked, dont you think someone would have made a ful lworking system of it now? All te big energy majors would have it running if it was true, as htey are all spending billions to find alternativeenergy systems for when the oil runs out.... And all that stuff about NSA/government/ spy threats, yeah right..... and htere goes a flying elephant and i collected a bag full of rocking horse shit on my way to work this morning!! Mark BP Process Engineer

Guys, How is the main trim piece that goes along the top of the door opening and down the inside of hte A pillar held in place? My passenger side one has come loose down near the tweeter grill and is rattling like a git..... The trim piece is screwed in place around hte top of the door but cant see how it is held at the bottom or anywhere along the A pillar. Cheers, Mark

Yep, perfect symptom of a knackered ignition switch.... probably best to replace teh switch to be honest as you may soon have trouble getting the car started if thats the fault. No real way to test it either without replacing.... Mark

I have just had to replace a rear wheel bearing on my C, and they were only renewed about 28,000 miles ago with new bearings from GSF when the rear disks were changed. Personally considering the bearings are only £30, i would get the VAG ones. Not worth saving £20 if you have to do them again in 2 years IMHO. Mark

Its unlikely you have porous alloys, what usually happens is that the alloy starts to corrode around the tyre bead, which lifts the tyre slightly out of the bead and allows air to escape. Easy way to check is take one wheel off the car, and use a paint brush and washing up liquid to spread some foam around the edge of the tyre / wheel meeting point. Do it all the way round. If it is the seal thats leaking you will see bubbles. Try both front and back of the wheel. If it is the seal you dont need to get the wheels refurbished, just take them to your local garage, get them to pop the tyres off, clean up the inside of the wheel where the bead sits and replace. This is very very common on alloys, my local garage has just done 2 of my wheels when they put the new Eagle f1's on... Hope that helps, Mark

I may be wrong but thought the offical lubrication was graphite powder which I can get in my local hard ware store, not sure where else you can get it. The other option is i suppose buy a very soft pencil and colour in the spoiler arms..... LOL Seriously though, graphite works a treat and seems to last for ever... Mark

Dont bother wit hthem, get a good set of components in the front in the factory positions with a decent amp, and pop a 10 inch sub in the boot running off the amp too and ditch the rear speakers altogether. The sound you will get out of a good set of amped components will mean you dont need any rear fill anyway. Installation is everything wit hthe componens though so if your not confident you can get them mounted firmly yourself pay someone who knows what they are doing to pop them in for you, and budget for some Dynamat or similar around the woofers too. Dont try to put 4 inch speakers in the dash, jsut put th etweeters in there.... Mark

no no no no no no and NO!!!! They would probably do, wit hthe clarion being my choice, but to really get those Focals to sing you need to put more grunt into them.. Personally I am looking at 100W RMS into my focals as i am just looking for my amps. How about htis, would sound soo much better, and if yo uwant to expand later on also makes a kick arse sub amp http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/product ... ts_id=4714

And you only managed one photo.......

well..that fixes it then... at 30,000 miles a year theres absolutely no doubt i would cack one within a year.. have already done a passenger head light and an indicator this year...... BUGGER!!

hmmm..so are the angel eyes lenses glass or plastic?? That has really put me off buying htem now.....

well personally i would get rid of that front spoiler that has been put o nthe rear bumper as I think they look cack IMHO.... other than that, nice - and considering i dont normally like white C's.... lol

I guess you two guys are both running the Focals off a standard head unit and both like them loud?? The problem will be that you are not giving them a clean signal when you turn up the volume. The standard head unit amp will start to clip as you get it turned up, which WILL very quickly knacker your speakers. What you rally need is a separate amp. I know guys who are running focals off a 250Watts / channel amp and they sound great. when i had my 136v's installed the installer said that all focals LOVE power, the more the better, and you will never get another problem.... Mark

I run my FK konigsports at full soft on the rear, one turn up from soft on the front, with 35psi i nthe front tyres, 30 psi in the back..... Give that a go after trying Kev Haywires recommendation... Also, if you have Gran Tourismo on the Playstation you can see how suspension set up changes the car.. Take a "normal" FWD car and try swapping from soft all round to soft front hard rear then to hard front soft rear. You wil lsee the difference as GT has enough chassis dynamics built into it to show up..... Plus it a good excuse to get the PS out again..lol

When you had the car lowered did you have a proper 4 wheel alignment done or just had the tracking checked at Kwik-Fit? If you didnt have hte full 4 wheel effort done then go get it done straight away, will make a huge difference to the car..... Other options are as stated by the other guys but probably due ot you having good wet weather tyres on the front and crap on the back.

Thinking of changing to the Angel Eye headlights. What happens htough if a stone flys up and cracks the lens as has just happened to my original headlight? Can you buy new lenses for the angel eyes or if you crack one do you have to buy a new unit?? Thanks,

Sunroofs were standard on all Corrados EXCEPT the 8 valve where they were an added cost option. Also 8 valves do not have the adjustable height steering wheel that all other C's got..... Personally i am very happy not having a sunroof. There are plenty of other things to go wrong without worrying about the roof too......

Just bear in mind Hydrogen is very very explosive and not really something to be buggered about with by the amateur in my opinion. Also i dont htink a standard alternator is going to be happy supplying hte kind of current you need to generate the gas, last timei saw it done they used a welding machine to supply the current in short bursts.... Mark

Have you tried T Cutting them first?? I think i would definitely start wit ha botle of TCut before taking wet adn dry to my paintwork.....

Guys, Since u put the Corrado back on the road it is making a nasty metallic rubbing / clonking sound. Sounds a bit like two pieces of metal brushing past each other.. always happens twice as though it moves away then back to its original position. It happens usually when you take up the power as you pull away, thought it was the clutch at first but doesnt do it if your very very careful and pull away gently. Also get the sound when going over some bumps, seems to be worse when pulling away on a junction i.e. pulling away and turning. Im pretty sure its coming from the front as you can also feel it through the floor. Any ideas before i let my local VW specialist have a look / listen. Cheers, Mark

I have a 300TDi Disco too, used for pulling hte horse box, general paddock chores and for ploughing htrough lincolnshire winters.... If you find a nice, late plate 300 TDi that has been looked after you shouldnt have any problems. Yes the gear boxes are known to give a bit of grief, but most of htem by now have been replaced wit hthe modified ones anyway. The other option if your not going to be doing tots of miles is look for a nice disco 2 with the V8 engine. The yare going for peanuts at the mo cos no-one wants the V8 due to the MPG. My dads mate just bought a V plate disco 2 with 28,000 miles on it for £2k!!!!! OK, pulling a box you will only get 15mpg, but then you have spent bugger all on buying it..... Also, Landies are much cheaper to work on than Mitsubishis, and all parts are readily available. Mark