Bobert healetty

yea i agree the engine has been tampered with so much that i dont even know what the hell the deal with it is...i already sold the supercharger because theres no way i could put it on this motor due to the high compression...i do know the stock g60 pistons are supposed to be concaved/dished and the pistons that are in my engine are completely flat ..i deffinatly bought someone elses problems and i really cant deal with it anymore but i also cant just sell the car because it doesnt run..i lvoe the car i love how it looks but its sitting outside collecting pollen in my carport and it seems that everyday i go and work on it i find a new scratch or a new chip in the brand new paint....and im not even driving it this sucks it is bleeding me dry(money and energy wise) i cant afford to keep throwing parts at it and from all the money ive put into it i can no longer afford a new/second hand motor plus the install...i also dont have the proper tools nor time to install another engine so i would have to pay someone if i went that route and i cant really afford that so i guess i dont know what to do im a college student with a crappy paying job and bills to pay now i dont even have transportation because of this car i am at a complete loss right now and dont know what to do

ok ive been dealing with this car for far to long and it has nickle and dimed me to death for the most part im about ready to blow it up i finally got done replacing the head gasket and timing everything i went to start her up and it was hard to start but it started once it was started there was some white smoke coming out of the exhuast i figured it was just excess coolant/oil in the exhuast from the previous blown headgasket so i let it idle for about 2 minutes the smoke started to get a little thicker but not much i checked under the car for any leaks and thats when i noticed LOTS of fuel just pouring out of the fuel tank so i shut the car off pulled cover over the gas tank from inside the hatch everything looks good...checked under the car nothing out of the ordinary?....i only had the car running for about 2-3 minutes and the engine got very hot within those 3 minutes..so hot that it burned my hand when i touched the valve cover... i have a feeling the head gasket blew AGAIN and now my fuel tank is leaking like a mother f***er i am going broke trying to fix this car ive owned the car for about 2 months now and have only drivin it for a week the rest of the time ive been fixing stuff...the supercharger blew 4 oil seals i blew a head gasket, and i may have blown this brand new head gasket, i just cant beleive this also some information you guys should know this engine has been so molested that no professional shops will touch the car... its not stock but it is the g60 engine pg block bored to 83mm with 82.9mm Ross Racing custom forged pistons WITH FLAT TOPS this has raised the compression ALOT the head has also been shaved to the maximum that the g60 head can be shaved to i did have the head rebuilt while i was doing the head gasket, it has a 262º cam shaft stock rods with an oem head gasket...when the head gasket blew before once i pulled the head off it had 2 OEM metal headgaskets shimmed together...theres something up with this engine and i dont know what it is but it is costing me alot of money and it does not want me to fix it for some reason i tried to provide as much information as possible because i really need some help/advice it is always appreciated if you need to know anything else please ask thanks in advance for any of the help that i receive

i no longer have the charger the boost return pipe is just plugged at the end...how can i delete the boost return and the big round filter on the valve cover?

arp studs suck just get the oem head gasket and oem head bolts

the wrist pin is getting warped?

it only cost me 240 total to do the head and it has alot of work done to it

deffinatly because as it is right now the head has been shaved a real lot and the intake valves stick out past the deck of the head and the pistons are very very close to the deck of the block..im wondering if that is another reason why there was two headgaskets on there...because even when there was two the valves were very close to the pistons at top dead center when i looked through the spark plug hole....so im just going to pop the head gasket on real quick and slap the head on tomorrow morning and seel how close the valves are to the pistons at top dead center i do not have the proper tools to measure everything so ill have to do it by eye

the oil seal shavings that i have noticed have been very very small but there was quite a bit only 1 seal got shreaded and the metal part of the seal stayed intact so it was tiny rubber particles i need to get this car running asap but i want to do it the right way the first time because i cant afford to do it all over again i think the timing part is whats going to give me the most trouble....because the head has been shaved almost to the max and i have flat top pistons and am only running 1 head gasket i have a feeling something bad is going to happen to the valves if i get the timing even the slightest bit off because even when the car had two headgaskets the valves were VERY close to the pistons at TDC

btw i should probably add that this engine was rebuilt with FLAT top pistons so the compression was raised...the head has been shaved to the max and im only using 1 head gasket this motor is very high compression but i wont be able to tell the exact ratio until i get it all assembled and can take a compression test

ok i sent the head of to be cleaned and inspected and i ended up getting a 3 angle valve grind new valve guides new valve seals polished camshaft and everything cleaned. i replaced 99% of the top end gaskets...no wi just dont know where to start i put the manifolds back on the head i have soo much stuff to do before the car runs again....and i need this car running as soon as possible...i need to flush all the coolant REALLY WELL i need to change the oil and flush everything out really well...im sure some of the g-charger oil seals shavings are all clogged up inside the bearings and i cant afford to take the block apart also...so i need to find a way to get all them oil seal shavings out of the engine i need to also replace the distributor rotor...i was going to replace the timing belt but the belt is brand new....so this is where im at head is pretty much rebuilt and nice and clean with all new gaskets manifolds are reinstalled and that is where im at....ive never gone this indepth with engine work before so i need some advice as to what path to take now...i want to do this right the first time i cant afford to do this multiple times because i fucked something up so any help is appreciated

keep in minds the pistons are still inside the block i will not be removing the pistons....an instructor at my school told me to leave the pistons alone and to slap the head back on put everything back together then start it up rev the engine and while the engine is revving squirt a little bit of water inside the throttle body...he said the water will atomize and eat away at the carbon and it will all fly out the exhuast...he said dont put too much water or youll hydrolock the engine...i know this instructor knows what hes talking about but i dont really wanna squirt water in my engine....i want some more opinions on this matter

John at Bahn brenner knows his stuff they are all good people its a wonderful place to do business with

so carb cleaner wont hurt anything?

ok i have ALOT of carbon buildup on my FLAT TOP g60 pistons... i am sending the head off to get cleaned and inspected...the block is still in the car now what can i use to clean off all the carbon buildup that are ontop of the pistons....

yea putting it all back together is going to suck because the guy who was helping me took most of it apart and put all the bolts in 1 box and another box with all parts. so now i have to figure out where all these bolts and washers go because they are not labled but thats ok im just happy i got the head off... i do have a couple more questions... i want to clean all of the carbon and oil etc off of the valve and piston faces..what can i use to get it off...there is alot... i also found out that the pistons in this car are flat top pistons the cylinders have been bored and the head has been shaved alot this is going to raise the compression quite a bit correct? and the shop shimmed two headgaskets together equaling 6 layer metal headgasket to lower the compression enough to put the supercharger on and keep the engine from pinging.. im guessing that didnt drop the compression enough because the charger blew 2 oil both times i installed it...i ended up replacing 4 oil seals in all 2 on intake casing and the 2 on the displacer. what should i do put two headgaskets back on and try to install the supercharger again or should i just put one headgasket on and drive in high compression N/A?

well i finally got the head loose..i ended up ruining the studs but as soon as the studs started loosening the head slowly started to lift off the block.. i am soo god damn happy right now its finally broken loose...only problem now is as i was taking up the studs i forgot to remove one of them now the head of the studs is inside the cylinder head so my stud remover cant grip it and i cant put the head back down flush with the block because some of the studs are sticking out the bottom of the cylinder head... i think i may have to remove the intake manifold..but i dont care i am just damn happy that the cylinder head is finally broken loose i also have to finish unbolting the exhuast manifold from the downpipe because i missed one nut...once i get the head off i will remove the exhuast manifold, replace the exhuast and intake manifold gaskets, clean everything up nicely, make sure nothings damaged, then ill get new spark plugs, do a coolant flush, oil change, clean out intercooler and all pipeing,replace distributor rotor, put everything back together if i can figure out where all these bolts go and i should be good to go anything else i should replace while im in there if i dont have receipts of it recently being replaced?

ok ..thank you very much gaz i will be taking the head studs out no matter what now i dont care if i have to go back to oem..it seems the only way i will be able to get them out is channel locks or vise grips ...i do not have a welder and dont have access to a welder.. i have tried stud removers, double nutting, prying, hammering, cranking engine, etc etc nothing has worked so the studs must come out no matter what and i talked to the vw stealership and they said they wont touch it i even called the shop who built the motor to see if they would just do the job for me and they made some lame excuse "we just got a porsche and merc that we're doing heavy engine work on so we wont be able to get to the vw for like 3 weeks"...i was like wtf....these people probably put a massive bandaid on a huge problem and dont want me to know about it....im hoping the head isnt cracked or something... or the head is warped

no i got the timing belt back on today and cranked it over to get the old crap out of the cylinders then put some fresh oil in there put the plugs back in cranked the motor head didnt move ..so i put a little more oil in crank it again head still didnt move so i tried it one last time and as soon as cranked it i heard two loud popping noises i have no idea what it was but i stopped at that point now i dont know what to do head still wont come off

i will have an e30 m3 evo at some point in my life that car is drop dead gorgeous my current e30 doesnt cut it and the c is nice but m3's are the balls

anyone driven a high compression N/A g60?

OK my motor has alot of stuff done to it (performance wise) and i installed the charger and it kept blowing oil seals(long story) apparently the place that built the motor put custom 2.0L forged pistons over bored the cylinders shaved the head and left the stroke stock im guessing this would up the compression? the shop that last had the head off...shimmed two OEM headgaskets together so they could lower the compression and install the charger(it was pinging with the supercharger installed because of too high compression) they used some type of sealent on the head gasket now the head is very hard to get off...my question is what could be the compression ratio that it was raised too? i do not have all the measurements because i have not taken the engine apart yet...once i finally get the head off is there anyway i can use one head gasket and keep the high compression and still use the charger? maybe use a larger pulley to lower boost? i wonder how the car performs with the supercharger bypassed and with the stock headgasket..(higher compression)

turbo boost and supercharger boost are both the same yes a boost guage is a boost guage use it as you please

well they punched the block to a 2.0L got custom forged pistons increased bore and left the stroke stock...so they raised the compression quite a bit and it was pinging really bad with the supercharger installed so they shimmed two head gaskets together to lower the compression enough to stop the pinking with the supercharger installed....

no the arp studs do not have allen holes or torx holes on the top of them they are flat..i tried to take them out by hand but i dont understand how that would work .. i have tried hammers and blocks of would..ive tried prying on all the corners etc etc nothing has worked so im going to slap the timing belt back on then rotate the engine im hoping this will pop the head off i appreciate all of your guy's help if you have anymore suggestions that would be great..ill let you know how it goes i wont be able to do it today but maybe tomorrow

i can try to get photos but i dont have any at the moment i have a camera but for some reason it does not like to load pictures onto my computer i dont know whats up with it