Bobert healetty

yes theres is absolutely no clearence between the studs and the head drillings that is noticeable to the naked eye to be perfectly honest it kinda looks like the studs were pressed into the head but i dont see how thats possible...but it does look that way...anyways i will try what you suggest and i hope to christ it comes off because im becoming desperate

ok i will try to do that as soon as possible i need to purchase a new rotor because my pry bar slipped and nailed the distributor rotor and cracked it up so once i get a new rotor i will put the timing belt back on and turn over the engine what are the minimum components i need to install to turn the engine over? do i need to hook all the coolant hoses back up and all the sensors and all the crap thats attached to the throttle body etc etc?? please let me know what i need to put back together to rotate the engine and get some compression

no i have tried that but there is no where near enough room ...i cant even get a wrench down in there

i do not have a garage and the only garage i have access to is my buddies garage but the car is immobilized so i cant get the car to his house...and he doesnt even have any support beams in his garage either so that wouldnt work...we thought about that all ready

it has head studs and the nuts that hold the head down on the studs have been removed. the cylinders already have alot of oil and coolant inside of them due to the blown head gasket and the blown oil seals in the charger which let alot of oil inside the engine..which caused the head gasket to blow im afraid if i hook everything back up and turn her over with the coolant and the oil in the cylinders it will hydralock the engine which i dont want to happen which is why i was trying to remove the head so i could clean out the cylinders and replace the head gasket then clean out the intercooler etc etc...

i am in the US

but if the headgasket is blown how will the cylinders hold compression? i dont think it will give enough compression to pop the head off because i have pried this thing soo hard it felt like my arms were going to snap in half i have had about 5 people try to get this head off and to no avail

yes g60

ok i need to get my headgasket done by the end of this week or else i will be without transportation.. i have disconnected everything that could possibly be holding this head onto the block and the head absolutely will not budge i have tried prying it hammering it heating it etc etc the head will not move...i can not remove the head studs because there is no way for me to remove them without taking the head off... apparently when the engine was built up they messed with the compression and it raised the compression so much that the shop had to use 2 of the OEM head gasket and shim them to drop the compression low enough to use the supercharger... and it seems as though there is some type or rtv/gasket sealer crap on the head gasket but i dont see why gasket sealer would seize the block onto the head the way it is...i honestly am at my wits end with this car i have no idea how to get this head off i have tried everything is there anything i am missing? i mean when im prying up on the head it ends up moving the entire engine and pulling on the engine mounts but the head will not budge at all i have disconnected the exhuast manifold from the down pipe disconnected all the coolant hoses going to the engine taken off the alternator, timing cover, metal coolant hose that goes to the flange on the side of the head etc etc everything is off and the head wont move i really need some help

theres a tool for installing oil seals? what is this tool and where can i get it?

bump please

Jeeezzzzzzzz we have a scientist amongst us......... :lol: . sorry i wasnt sure if it was 9.6 or 9.5

also check for parasitic drain...make sure when you turn the car off and leave it sitting for the night...make sure EVERYTHING turns off because even if the trunk light stays on over time it will just completely drain your battery and can cause hard starting.. a good way to check for parisitic current drain is to take off the negative battery terminal hook up a jumperwire from the post to the terminal then turn the ignition to the on position for 15 seconds then hook up your ammeter parallel to the jumperwire and disonnect the jumper wire...then read your amps it should be between 0 milliamps-100milliamps if its anything more then you have parisitic current drain and you should go and find whats causing it but first and foremost check the batterys static voltage it should be between 12.45volts(75% charged) and 12.68(fullycharged)

i thought it was 9.6 anyways why dont you bring the battery to a shop and have them do a heavy load test...to see if your battery is good..what is the static voltage with the car off and the ignition off?

ok i will do that...i did take the oil feed line off...and there was oil in it but i could not blow through it at all from either side...i will try it with the return line ..if oil comes out and i can blow through it then what should i check next? i did check my oil level and the crankcase was WAY overfull can an overfull crankcase of very heavy weight oil cause too much oil pressure and blow the seals in the charger?.... i can see particles all over the place from the shreaded sealso i need to do an oil change and probably an engine flush before i even attempt to install the charger again

you mean where the oil return line connects to the charger?...i dont know...how can i check?...can i blow some compressed air through there to maybe clear it out if it is blocked? before i rebuilt the charger i cleaned the living hell out of the thing with brake parts cleaner...and it was all nice and shiney and after i rebuilt it i put some oil over all the bearings and when i did that oil was dripping out of the feed and return inlet/outlets (before i installed the charger) i guess you could say i primed it with a little bit of oil

ok could it be because im using 20w-50 synthetic oil and didnt let the car warm up before we started to drive it?...im guessing heavier oil causes more oil pressure? and is thick as **** before its warmed up? if i had to guess then thats what my guess would be...because everything in the charger looks really good and clean except the fact that these 2 seals keep blowing...the first time they blew was our own fault we were stupid and hooked up the return line wrong but this time...we did everything right the only thing i can think of was were using to thick of oil and didnt let the car warm up and that caused too much oil pressure behind the seals and just blew them out also exactly how should these seals be installed?...should they sit flush in the hole?..should they be in a little more or sticking out a little more? everything was nice and dry when we installed the seals we did not use any bearing cement or anything like that

the two seals that keep blowing are the intake side seals the two seals closest to the main pully....inner and outer the inner seal keeps getting shreaded and the outter keeps popping out

an O.E rebuild kit was used from Bahn Brenner... heres the deal ill tell you the whole story the previous owner bought this charger...from ebay the guy said it was rebuilt so the previous owner got it installed by a shop and as soon as they installed and started the car...smoke started pouring out the exhuast...so the PO knocked off $1k from the asking price and i bought an OE rebuild kit from bahn brenner...one of my buddies from school owns a g60 and a vr6 he has rebuilt them before(?) the rebuild went good..we installed the charger and the oil seals blew..apparently my buddy from school hooked up the oil return line to the oil filter housing(the top where the sensor is) and we apparently neither of us thought about the oil filter has oil pressure and the oil return line is supposed to be low pressure...boom oil seals blow...it shreaded 1 seal and popped the other one out(these are the two front seals by the pully inner and outer...the inner seal got shreaded..so i bought 2 more seals from bahn brenner...then I found out where exactly to hook up the oil return line and thats where it was hooked up...so we replaced the seals cleaned everything out...etc the charger still looks extremely clean and almost new on the inside...no chips or cracks nothing its nice and shiney...still....so we put everything back together it sealed up nicely...we hooked the charger into the car starter her up took the intercooler tube off and it was blowing nice and hard air with no oil coming out...granted the car was still smoking like mad from all the oil still in the tubes and intercooler...but nothing was coming out the charger but air...so we hooked the air hoses back up and let the car idle for a minute....checked it again and still nothing wrong with the charger still blowing good air and not leaking oil.... so we decided now was the time to move the car we started drive with it still smoking out the exhuast and drove pretty slow and got back to the house with just a couple minutes of driving slowly... turned the car off unhooked the tube again and boom oils leaking like a mother F*cker right out the charger outlet... another seal got shreaded cause i can see tiny little plastic/rubber particles all over the outletand im pretty sure its the same one that got shreaded before what did we do wrong?

update... the supercharger has previously had a stage 4 rebuild...the only problem with the charger was one of the oil seals on the displacer was never replaced when it was last rebuilt...but i will rebuild the whole thing anyways..i cleaned the entire charger with brake cleaner once i got the displacer off etc and the thing is shiny as a mother * looks like lots of porting has been done etc.. everything is in mint condition...no knicks chips, scratches etc other then all the little circles etched in from the displacer it looks brand new...the only thing that sucks is i have to get a hold of a press somehow to get the bearings out...and i also cant get one of the keys off to take the main rod out...the biggest key is stuck on i tried pliers, vice grips, screw drivers etc the thing wont budge..the other two keys came out very easily...i was thinking on just replacing the one oil seal on the displacer (cause thats the only thing wrong with it and the only thing leaking oil) but i guess since i already have the rebuild kit i may as well just rebuild the whole thing...

you should really spary some degreaser on that engine and pressure wash it

well the car was sitting for like 4 months before i purchased it other then my couple of test drives and to move it in and out of the shop it sat for a while btw i do have an important question will driving with the supercharger bypassed for too long hurt anything? or do any damage?

the steering wheel just has some leather cover over it i will be replacing that along with the grille....the petrol door is just carbon fiber so yes it is a different color i have no idea if the supercharger has had work done...so maybe i will just get the standard rebuild?

well the front grille looks much better in the flesh...but you are right i am going to be replacing it with a badgless grille of some sort

here is a list of stuff that has been done to the car before i owned it and just recently before i purchased it (just picked it up last night(pics to follow) new ac compressor new ac dryer new auxiliary fan assembly new starter new cv axles new sunroof seal new brake pads new cross drilled rotors new exhuast new exhuast manifol new harmonic balancer new engine mounts new battery new distributor cap and rotor New 180ºF thermostat new window regulators all exterior and interior trim replaced with new all dents and dings repaired and car was resprayed factory blue BLock: recently rebuilt short block new Pro Power forged Aluminum 83mm pistons new forged connecting rods new connecting rod bearings bored cylinders Head: Cleaned ported polished new 268º camshaft and sprocket 5 angle valve grind new lifters 42mm intake valves 35mm exhuast valves titanium valve spring retainers heavy duty valve springs ported intake manifold port matched throttle body engine oil seals replaced ARP head studs carrera coil overs(?????) neuspeed front sway bar neuspeed rear sway bar neuspeed rear tie bar(???) neuspeed oilpan neuspeed injectors neuspeed spark plug wires Eurosport intercooler piping New adjustable FPR New Authority stage III E-PROM chip brand new 17" enkei RS-5's with 205-40-17 fuzion tires this car dynoed at 215hp at the wheels and 210ft lbs of torque at the wheels(when the supercharger was installed) but since the charger is blown its being sent off to kompressor kanada for there stage 4 rebuild and a 65mm pully and the pics