quicky1980

I have fitted new tyres on the car, and does seem to have had this bad handleing sensation since this. Its possibly related then. I am thinking of rebuilding the rear beam anyway so will be able to tell for sure in the near future. thanks guys

Its not that hard, as long as you have a hoist its straightforward. Its much harder to convert a non vr to vr spec lol. Just unplug all the hoses to the bulk head, un-clamp the exhaust. PAS pump can stay on to save beelding the system and same goes with the clutch slave cylinder. If you need any help pm me and we can chat on msn or via phone. Where abouts are you, if your close Ill give you a hand? I may be interested in the old engine too, need one for a rebuild. Bentley manual is the best manual for corrado's but a haynes one on the golf vr6 will cover the info you need.

this is on my next thing to do list. need to find out as much as possible. So any hints and tips would be great. Need to find the correct seat, can anyone tell me what year and if possible models will allow for the seat to corrado climatronic conversion?

Ive converted my rado to vr spec, only thing still original is the rear crossmember/axle. I now need to change the rear bushes because the rear end feels slack. Now I'm pretty sure the original axle is narrower than the vr. am I right? Original axle is 2.0 16v on a 1992 car. If they are different how much difference track wise is there? Might just rebuilt a vr axle off the car to reduce down time, but the vr axles will be harder to track down so if they are all the same I will be able to get the axle easier. thanks

Cheers Foxster

Right, been busy lately. But here are some pics' these were taken at the Stanford Hall event I was at. 50 Corrado's turned up alltogether. need to update my signature picture I think lol Re-wired the headlamps so I can now see when driving at night. Next thing to do is space the wheels out and look into fitting air-con

Going round corners at normal driving speed it feels as if the car wants to spin round when I hit relatively big bumps. I'm thinking maybe the rear axle mounts are wearing/worn out. Would this cause this bad handling. Car feels planted normally.

sorry, yes they are LM reps

Thanks bud, cars still not looking bad after over 2 years of use and now doing around 10k miles a year for work. When I get a company car I will rebuild her from top to bottom. cant wait!!

Changed the uprights and other hardware to allow for the 5 studs. Now have fitted the new wheels. BBS Reps. Old vs New Random pics car needs a clean after a weekend of driving to wales and back

I bought some drive shaft boot kits for my vr6, but they are both the same size. I asked the bloke if they were the correct ones and he said yes. I always thought that these boot are handed to be near/off sides due to the size of the driveshafts. Should I go back and tell him off and get the correct part, or do I just need to stretch the one i have over the shaft?

ye came across your posts but it didnt answer my questions fully

not on the vr's

Ive recently fitted a vr6 engine into my car, and after finding out the speedo didnt work (faulty gearbox) I swapped the gearbox and sorted that issue out. Now while I was driving around with the faulty gearbox I didnt have the fuel consumption reading on my instrument cluster, I put this down to the speedo not working. So I now have a working speedo, but mpg reads 99.9mpg. Ive looked this up on the forum and people say its the purple wire behind the dash/fuse box. Ive looked this up and all seems to be connected properly. Could it be anything else? Im using a golf vr6 ecu which vince at stealth remaped to a corrod spec. cant say for sure if the clusters mpg is working due to it being fitted while the engine was swapped. dont want to be swapping stuff again if it could be something more simple that ive missed thanks

Its there for emissions if i recall correctly. What it does is it allows crankcase breather smoke to re-enter the combustion chamber vie the inlet pipe. What You could do is remove it completly and block up the inlet hole (making sure what you block it with has no chance of falling/suck trough into the inlet, i used a wheel bolt with plent of insulation tape), the other end (cam cover) can just go to the atmosphere. this isnt ideal, but will do for a short term fix until you get the replacement part. Some guys run this setup with a filter on the cam cover outlet and with a good proper bung on the inlet. but to by the filter will prob cost as much as the original part so may as well go back to standard setup, after all vw know what they were doing.

ye Im starting to think thats the best direction. If it still smokes I can rebuild a spare bottom end and when it comes to engine out time, Ill take the rebuilt head off. Are all vr cylinder heads the same, obv there are coil and dizzy versions but besides that?

I wouldnt pay more than £750 tbh. but I did get mine with better spec for £650

sounds like the recirulation valve. Mines missing in this picture , one was on ebay a short while back http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... :IT&ih=001 If so Im not sure what the part number is, but if I remember correctly vw charge alot because it comes with all the air intake pipe and other bits. Have a try with ford it will be far cheaper to get it from them i've been told. let me know if its that part and Ill try and get a part number for you

i have no problem with doing a top end rebuild but dont want to do a bottom end rebuild as I need the car for work. I can rebuild a spre head and fit it on the car over a weekened hopefully. Im just trying to work out what the likely chance of the bottom end will need rebuilding. Ive been told that the engine has done around 90k but hard to tell if this is true. I was foolish enought to try some engine flush in the engine prior to the last oil change, I have a feeling this may have accelerated the stem wear. Like i said the top end is noisy (tappety) so will plan for a top end change at some point or swap it all over for a decent engine. tbh its hard to figure out the best direction to go with it all.

hmm ok, thought about this alot, and to avoid hassle im thinking of placing another vr engine in the car to sort this out. there are alot of 2.8 vr engines out there. obv they are obd2, but if i swap all the sensors overs can it work in a corrado while i rebuild the 2.9?

Ive been told that my VR bottom end may be at fault but want some more opinions. Symptoms: Smoke from exhaust when cold starting with heavy revs when the engines used for a long distance on engine braking i get smoke when I accelerate out again top end is tappety when cold can take a while to start up when she's warm shes fine apart from the engine braking problem smoke is grey/white/blue Im pretty sure its oil and im using about 1ltr of oil per 400 miles give or take. Is this top or bottom end fault? or indeed both. Id rather swap the whole engine if the bottom has gone, also is it a gearbox off to take the head off (timing chains). Im tempted to draw this engine out as long as possible until I can afford/have time to swap for a 24v. thanks

I use min e daily which is about 40miles a day. So i have to carry out any work on the weekends and get it ready for work. In fact I swapped the gearbox on my car this weekend ready for the drive back to work. I reckon its great having a show car but theres no fun in it, the cars are built to be driven.

Where can I get a hold of a delocked plinth/number plate plastic? I know they can be bought but not sure were from. Or has anyone got a delocked/standard plinth they can sell me? thanks

lol Dave, think you may need to read the post again :D

ye sounds about what Id thought it would cost. You going for it? Do they do cheaper kist if I went for slower raise/lower kits. i just need one for speed bumps