Henny

if you read Jabba's rebuild policy, it says that they only change parts that appear to require replacement during a charger service... :| Of course, how you can visually inspect a sealed bearing is something I've still not worked out... :roll:

you've had other things on your mind mate, no worries... Phone is now working again (got a new one) so I'll actually be able to answer it now! :lol:

they tend to go for between 300 and 500 depending on history and mods... To be honest, the Jabba bit will probably go against it, although the JMR rebuild will probably relieve those problems... :)

there's a thin blue wire that goes from the alternator down towards the starter motor where it goes into a connector on another blue wire... check this is connected properly and not broken else the car won't charge from the alternator... ;)

that's not much bigger than a Golf G60 or Rallye intercooler like I've got on my G60 'rado... :| Lots of point to it... helps with power loads as long as the boost piping is a sensible length and shape! 8)

um... Guys, that's not a twin turbo setup... :roll: Twin turbo setups use 2 identical turbos, one each for half of the engine's cylinders (eg one turbo for left bank and one for the right bank on a V engine...) BI-TURBO setups use 2 different turbos, one for low end, one for high end... ;)

go over to Dubforce.net and have a look at Dubwhizz's Oettinger G60 golf... It had basically the same G60 engine bay as a Corrado to start with, but it sure as hell don't look standard now! 8)

heavier right foot Joe? Nah... only on public roads, but deffo not when I've been throwing it around tracks and the like... :twisted:

Erm, that'll be where the air "whoosh" is coming from then... when on part throttle the boost will be coming out of the bottom of the throttle body until you actually press the throttle all the way open... :|

I suppose I'd be classed as a dubber... only had one car that wasn't a dub (vauxhall astra :oops: ) and have been messing with VWs of both air and water cooled versions for well over half of my life (and I'm only 31!)... Currently own 4 VWs... only one of which works... :oops: :lol:

feck... I'd missed all of this 'cos of work and lack of internet access... This is gonna be mental! I can't wait to see this in the flesh! 8)

Jesus Lippy... wondered why I hadn't heard anything from you for a while... :| Hope the insurance claim all goes smoothly...

I've had a GPS'd 139.8mph (it's still in every PVW as 9th fastest they've tested if anyone wants proof! 8) ) outta J-DUB with around 220bhp... That was in the wet and she was showing around 150 on the clock... she was still pulling, but there was a large aircraft at the end of the straight that was getting rather close rather quickly so I had to brake to make the corner... The speedo on your valver is out in that video as there's no way a valver would do 160mph... not without forced induction anyway! :lol: Hopefully find out what H-YYU will do this year at the same venue now she's over 250bhp and will be running 100% spot on... :)

I'm running a JMR mount on my 252BHP G60 with no problems whatsoever and have been for the last 30K miles... 8) Make sure you've replaced the other 2 engine/gearbox mounts and the 4 rubber bushes that hold on the front cross member and you should have no problems... 8)

not sure yours has one Lippy... think they're the same as the VR6 and the MFA readings are done by the ECU on the 2.0 16Vs? anyone confirm?

as above... and if you do see loss of coolant or gaining of oil level/coffee then don't instantly assume it's the head gasket... could also be the oil heat exchanger/cooler/thingy as they can break down internally throwing oil into the water and visa-versa making you think it's a head gasket gone... :|

could also be the idler pulley for the power steering belt... the bush inside breaks down and causes some really nasty noises... :|

if it's a CAT C, it'll need inspecting by someone from VOSA... I'm going to have to do this when I get J-DUB back into one piece... 8)

feck, I'm off touring the galapagos islands for my honeymoon then... Would have liked to have come along, but I know where I'd rather be... :lol:

yup, I was... I'm still playing with the idea, but I may well keep the turbo too... :twisted: :lol: (bought a 60mm pulley for the project already! :lol: )

I'll add a vote of confidence in for Keith at RPM... the head he did for J-DUB was very, very good and the only reason I got rid of it was due to the advent of the CNC heads G-Werks now offer which are simply better than someone can do by hand... 8)

yup, I'd change the ignition switch too... they're not a simple "on-off" switch, they actually turn on and off about 4 different circuits depending on which position they're in and it tends to be that one of these contacts fails/gets resistive and messes up the running and starting of the car... For under £30 and an hour's messing about to fit it, it's well worth trying it IMHO... 8) Use a genuine VAG one, don't buy one from Euro car parts or German Swedish and French as they simply are not as good quality... ;)

MS-G60, that's not right matey... the cam on a charged car tends to have no overlap - ie the exhaust and inlet valves are never open at the same time.... on a N/A car this overlap can be used to increase power, where on a F/I car this will decrease power...

the cam for a G60/forced induction engine normally has no overlap - Ie the exhaust and inlet valves are NEVER open at the same time... On a N/A car, this situation can happen and can actually help make power. On a F/I car, it actually makes the engine lose power.

ask to see flow charts for each head you're considering buying... if they can't provide one, then do you really trust what they're going to do will make a definate difference... ? Personally, I'd go with a G-werks CNC head, or one from RacePower Motorsport down in Kent... ;)