Henny

if it's not sticky runners, I'd suspect a dodgy earth, as you've had problems with more than one circuit in the same place... ;)

shaung60 - great buyer, kept in touch lots, bought lots (always good for a buyer!) and was friendly and punctual when he came to pick up the bits he'd bought from me... oh, and no quibbles about paying either, which is always good.. :lol: 8) Cheers Shaun, hope the C gets made to look better with those parts... 8) JMC, again, great buyer, paid instantly by paypal, and let me know the part had arrived and he was happy with it... can't ask for more than that... 8) Oh, and Blackthorn too... also paid instantly by paypal and let me know the part had arrived OK and he was happy with it... 8)

the matrix I put in mine was a Valeo part on J-Dub (back in 2003 I think it was... :? ) and a Hella part in H-YYU (Valeo part wasn't available from GSF anymore when I did the one on H-YYU)... Both seemed to be very good quality...

it's either the method above, or just pull the heater box out inside the car... The housing for the bolt head inside the heater box has rounded out meaning that it's hardly holding anything in anymore... 8)

hmmm... now where did I put my spare pair of headlights? :clap: :notworthy:

simply disconnect the battery completely and take a major (electrical) engine component off and into your flat... The battery will not go flat, and no bugger can nick the car as they'll not be able to get it to start... ;) There are even battery terminals you can get with a removable section specifically for this purpose, so you just unscrew the "link" and walk away knowing that your battery is disconnected... 8) I'd be thinking about taking the fuel pump relay into your flat if I were you... it's easy to remove, and the car won't go anywhere without it... it's also not the kind of part that your average car thief carries in their pocket... ;) H-YYU has been stood for over 2 years now ( :( ) and the battery has been disconnected but it has had a solar trickle charger on it at all times... this keeps it topped up to full and keeps it healthy, while stopping it from going anywhere (that and the fact the engine still hasn't been fixed!) as well as a couple of vital components missing helping her stay put... ;) :norty:

got stuck at work until silly o'clock last night, so didn't manage to get 'em for you... Will deffo get 'em for you tonight as I've got to pick up a load of body panels that someone's picking up from work tomorrow! 8)

I'll measure the one I've got for sale up tonight when I get home... it's already out of the car, so will be easy to do... 8) From what I remember, they should fit into the rear of a Polo, as they're slightly too narrow for a MKII Golf which they can be fitted into with the aid of a spacer each side of the base to fill in the gap between the car side and the seat base... Don't think I've ever seen it done though... 8)

the 2.0 TFSI 200bhp engine in the new 'rocco is the same as the one in my missus' new A3 cabrio... it's a sweet engine, and it gets much, much better as a few miles get under it's belt... My missus' one only has 4,000 miles on it, even so, you can definitely feel the difference from when we picked it up with only delivery milage on it... It's not as fast or as brutal as my G60 is, but with the DSG gearbox, the throttle pedal becomes a true accelerator... push to how much acceleration you want, and hold it there to keep the same amount of shove in your back all the way up to 6th gear (and way, way past the speed limit! :oops: ) it's definitely faster than a VR6, isn't all that far off my G60, and is sooooooo much easier to drive with the DSG gearbox... It's just a shame that the new 'rocco isn't that little bit more special... yeah, it looks OK, but only OK... compare a MKI golf and a MKI 'rocco, then do the same with a MKII golf and a MKII 'rocco, and a MKIII golf and a 'rado.... now do it with a MKVI golf and a MKIII 'rocco... see what I mean? There's none of the "wow" factor that the old 'roccos and 'rado had... you could shove a Golf badge on the back, and most people wouldn't know any different... :? Meh, anyway, that's my tuppence worth... :tongue: :lol:

if it's anything like when mine went, you can turn off the immobiliser, turn on the ignition and then bump start (push start) the car... I got quite good at doing this and could actually bump start my G60 in the work carpark on my own! :grin: :brickwall:

same stuff, different tin... 8)

you can buy specific sticky stuff remover from places like Focus and B&Q that get this kind of sticky stuff off really easily... :) It's citrus based, so won't screw your paintwork, electrics, rubber hoses etc up either... 8)

sounds like the switch to me too...

Hers isn't a PD though... it's an earlier TDI engine, and she's then changed the injectors, turbo and a few other bits to get it pretty close to 200bhp with shed loads of torque!

I've got a set of 17x8.5" Borbet Cs that'd fit straight onto that Merc which I'm considering selling... ;) :lol: Seriously though, the valver is looking sweet as... one of the nicest looking red ones I've seen... The Merc looks good too, excellent for a daily driver anyway... 8)

Well, this weekend I stripped her down to a bare(ish!) shell... The impact must have been a bit harder than I thought it had been.... not only had it snapped the passenger track rod at the track rod end, it'd bent the drivers side one over 45degrees too!!! :shock: Final pics... :( Rest in Peace... you did us proud and I loved every minute of owning you... :(

got one for sale if you're interested? £10 posted... looks to be in good nick too... 8)

As far as i'm aware there are 3 slam panel types, Early found mainly on pre july 1992 cars inc G60 and 16v (early exterior.) Then there is late exterior G60, 16v, 8v, etc which have another type of slam panel and then there is the VR, all slam panels are interchangeable but the radiator might not sit right due to where the radiator is held at the top of the slam panel, i think the holes are different. I'm not sure if there is an early slam panel for VR as i think they were made after the facelift. (Might be wrong) Basically i have found that the early panels pre 92 don;t have the extra hole for mounting the newer 3 slat grill. If the car is a 91 then i would assume its the early slam panel. The early slam panel will fit. This is what i have worked out after going buying and selling 4 slam panels. I currently have a late VR panel on a facelift G60. This might help. Chris I can confirm this is correct... I have both an early and a late G60 slam panel for sale at the moment, and I've tried both on a mate's VR6... they don't fit... A VR one WILL fit onto a G60/16V/8V though... :brickwall:

cost wise? Ummm... :scratch: from memory (it was a while ago now...) I think it breaks down as... Balancing the pistons and rods to that level was £250 this included machining the pistons to make 'em miss the oil squirters in my G60 block as they're 83mm Mahle pistons not originally intended for a G60 engine, so the actual balancing part was probably only £50 or so... Lightening and then dynamically balancing the crank - £150 dynamically balanced and lightened flywheel - £100 block blue-printing/oil and waterway clearing/gasket matching cost me another £30 on top of the overboring cost... Head, well, I bought one of G-Werks/CNC heads Big valve, CNC machined, polished heads and had the inlet and exhaust manifolds matched and flowed at the same time, and got a good price as mine was one of the prototype heads... All the rest of the porting (throttle body, intercooler inlet/outlet, etc etc etc...) I did myself for almost no cost other than time... P.s. it's HenNy, not Henry... ;) speak for your own G60... mine used to scare the pants of most Porsche drivers I came across, and it'd out brake most of 'em except for the real animal ones... :D :lol: If that's what you're after out of your engine, then that sounds very much like a description of the engine I've got in mine...

Lighten and balance the crank - makes a HUGE difference to the smoothness of both the engine and the power delivery.... knife edging the crank I feel is overkill on a G60 engine... you're restricted to how high you can rev the engine by the charger, so why do a modification that's all about getting higher revs out of the engine? Fit a baffled sump and windage tray instead and you'll have gained more useful advantage in a G60 engine than with a knife edged crank... ;) Lighten and balance the flywheel - makes the engine rev up/down much faster and I think a little more smoothly Match the weight of the pistons/rods - helps with the engine balance - rev up/down faster, less wasted energy in an unbalanced engine - basically, the parts are put onto a very accurate set of scales, and then material is removed to make all 4 rods weigh exactly the same, and the same with the pistons... mine have less than a gram TOTAL difference across all 4 pistons and rods! blueprint the blocks oil and waterways build up layers of crud over the years, and weren't particularly well cleaned out from the factory casting process anyway, so opening/cleaning these up a little helps the oil flow around the engine and helps to keep the engine running cooler and more efficiently... 8) Blueprint the head (or even better, gasket match!) and inlet/exhaust manifolds... the more restrictions to the flow of gasses through the engine you can remove, the more power you stop throwing away! ;)

low speed and high speed are both the same fan (fans in the VR6 case)... the low speed simply spins them slower, the fast speed runs them flat out... ;)

if you're after a loom from a late (J-plate) G60, I have one for sale... There's no engine loom, (already been sold) but the rest of the loom is intact and in good condition... It's still attached to the car at the moment, but will be out next weekend, if you can wait that long... Call it £20 if you want it, and I'm only down the road in Congleton... 8)

yup... if you've got a G60, the loom for the dash should be the same as that for a 16V... the only bit I know of that you'll have to be careful of is making sure that the dash had DIGITAL clocks for the odometer, as some of the early 16Vs had a mechanical odometer, and so don't have the same connections to the main dash instruments...

yes, the VR6 loom is slightly different from the earlier looms due to the change in the sunroof motor and a few other small bits and pieces... How much of a difference there is, I don't know...

if there was a blockage in the oil cooler, your oil temps would go up faster/higher than normal, but your water temp shouldn't go up much more, and your fan would kick in to keep the coolant temps down... the oil cooler is not in the main route for the coolant, so the coolant would simply bypass it should it become blocked... Get your fuel pressure checked... I noticed on H-YYU that she was getting hotter than normal a few weeks before she came off the road due to a dead headgasket... that turned out to be a weak fuel pump causing the engine to run lean and therefore very, very hot... :( I'd also be very tempted to stick a new water pump on to be honest... Just a quick question... does the radiator fan ever come on? may be worth checking that it is working on both speeds and spins freely... could be something as simple as the over-run/first speed fuse having blown... :wink: