Henny

yup, standard domed (not tapered) bolts as used on all genuine VW alloy wheels for Corrados... 8) (I've a set of Borbet Cs up for sale in 2 weeks once I get back from my honeymoon... pm me for details... ;) )

I've done a complete mechanism change in H-YYU in under 40 minutes... that's from it being a complete standard interior with metal roof panel to a complete standard interior with complete Passat glass roof and mechanism... 8)

as long as it's got a reflective background, is the standard font with the correct spacing, and the correct size, Vinyl, stick on number plates are 100% legal. There's nothing to say that a number plate MUST be acrylic... mine are pressed steel and are 100% legal on my Golf. 8)

VR6 clocks are setup for a 6 cylinder engine for the rev counter (and all the MFA signals) 16V is a 4 cylinder engine, so the rev counter won't count properly and most of the MFA utilities will be a mile out. IIRC the multiplug on the back is also different... simple answer is, no, the clocks won't fit... What you can do though, is to swap the needles and faces from VR6 clocks onto 16V clocks (done this to my G60) so that you have the red needles and different fonts on your original clocks... ;)

:iamwithstupid: :lol:

which engine? which set of clocks? (twin LCD or single LCD and mechanical milage counter)

a pic would help... it's a little like asking "how long is a bit of string?" There's no easy way to say, "yes, that's right", or "no, that's f**ked" without actually seeing it up close and personal... :|

if the exhaust manifold is blowing, it's possible that the exhaust gas has been blowing onto the rocker cover gasket, melting the rubber and causing your oil leak. That's not 100% certain though, and it still could be a problem somewhere else, especially the oil seal inside the supercharger which would throw oil into the boost pipes and out where you say you've got lots of oil... As said above, DO NOT run the engine while the beeper and oil light are on or you WILL damage your engine in a rather expensive way... :| In any case, get professional advice if you're not confident in your own abilities to fix this properly... :?

yup, that's just one that's been ported... mine's about the same and took me about 3 hours to do to that standard with a dremmel tool... 8) (also did the throttle in that time though... ;) )

oh, my, word.... 8) :notworthy: Nice job so far... looks excellent, well planned and superb execution... 8)

yup, did the same myself on J-DUB with the indicator and fog lamp (I think it was, may have been the horn) :oops: :lol:

I'd have gone the other way personally mate, Red= lean -> you're about to melt something! Green = ok -> go for it! Yellow = rich -> you're burning too much fuel! ;) Was going to do the rev/speedo swap on H-YYU a while back, but was using it as a daily driver at the time so kinda figured that it'd be a bad idea having an even smaller speedo! Not sure why they've got different colour needles though? :|

Reckon I've easily spent over £12K on my G60... :oops: However, I do now have a complete one and a nearly complete one after the accident for that money! :lol:

Mike's also running a 65mm pulley with one of G-Werks' CNC big valve heads... his spec is almost identical to mine, except for his standard bottom end, additional aquamist and 65mm pulley... superb power from a standard bottom end... 8)

Working it out is simple: Measure the resistance of the standard bulb and buy a resistor of that value (one for each side!!!). Job done! :lol:

see edit...

I noticed that too... :) Was thinking it's probably a protractor and a large hammer knowing Demon Tweeks at the moment... ;) :lol:

anyone thought about the possibility of the brake pad wear sensors being the problem? :roll: :lol: Check in your front wheel arches where the bottom of the suspension strut attaches to the hub. You should find: No cables = no ABS and no wear sensors (if this is the case, ignore me!) 1 cable = ABS OR wear sensors (not sure if wear sensors were fitted without ABS though) 2 calbes = ABS and wear sensors... I've seen a few cars where the pads have been replaced with the cheaper (and usually longer lasting!) non-sensor pads so the wear sensor cables have just been left dangling in the wheel arch (front only!). Over time, the dangling cable catches on the suspension and wheel as it moves and damages the insulation. When the damaged cable touches something metal it lights up the little red light on the dash board to alert the driver that their pads are wearing low... Brake, the cable moves and stops making contact, and the light goes out... ;) Hope this helps... 8) EDIT: Oh, and as an afterthought, if the sensor wires ARE damaged and the engine being off on your drive, you may well be back-feeding power to the fuel pump relay which will cause it to fire the fuel pump... would explain that fault too... ;)

symptoms tend to show up on cold damp mornings where the resistance of the cables is higher and the problem is more pronounced... ;)

you can't go from 4x100 to 5x112 simply using adaptors... at least, not safely, and anyone who is saying that you can will be supplying 2 piece adaptors that are a minimum of 40mm thick in total meaning that any wheels will have to have a mad offset to fit properly... :roll: Your best bet is to convert the car to 5x100 and then use adaptors to change 5x100 to 5x112.... Dubwhizz has done this on his Golf G60 Oettinger. Change the rear disks to VR6 ones (that's the rear 5x100 conversion done!) and then change the front hubs, bearings and a few other bits to convert that to 5x100. You'll then need a set of 4 5x100 to 5x112 convertors (make sure they're TUV approved!) which tend to be around 20 to 25mm thick meaning that you'll need a wheel with an offset to suit having a spacer that large behind them...

*keeps eyes peeled for silver/blue flash as he pootles along in the 'ssat TDI* :lol:

I'll lock this up for you matey... 8)

924/944 were straight 4s and 928 was a (beast of a) V8 Calibra V6 was 4x4 wasn't it? I know the turbo version was at least... :|

I phoned a garage once a couple of hours after I'd dropped J-DUB in for a suspension setup and asked them where they were taking my car... they replied "no-where, sir" to which I told them that the car had just sent me a text message to let me know that it had just broken 80mph and had breached the 5 mile radius curfew zone I'd set in the tracker when I dropped it in with them... The silence from the other end of the phone was fun... ;) It was even better when I pointed out that there's no legal place to do over 60mph within the area that the car was in and that I was seriously considering calling the police... :twisted: Needless to say, I didn't pay for the suspension setup and I haven't been back to that garage since... :lol: Anyway back to the main question: G60 engine (PG engine code) 1791cc - 81mm bore with 86.4 mm stroke 9:1 compression ratio 8valve - single overhead cam with hydraulic followers multi-layered metal head gasket (G60 only part) The head gasket itself takes about 3 hours labour to change as long as it's not blown in a BIG way in which case it adds on another hour or two to clean up the water and oil ways to remove the contamination. Depending on how badly it has blown and what's caused it (overheating is especially bad) the head may need a light skim to make sure that the face is completely flat and level which will add a little onto the cost. What makes you (and the garage) think that the head gasket has gone? There's an oil cooler (supercharged mentioned this in his post above) which has both oil and water in it and these are known to occasionally fracture internally causing oil and water to mix giving the appearance of a head gasket failure but with a much, much, much cheaper price to fix... ;)

yup, I've always advocated changing BOTH live and earth leads for the battery when you first get a second hand dub of over 5 years old... Deffo a weak point on 'em all... :|