Henny

yup, there's a sender you have to buy and an adaptor which is basically a T-piece. You remove your normal oil pressure switch, fit the T-piece and then fit the sender AND the original switch back onto the new T-piece... 8)

very, very, very, very, very, very, very, very, very nice... 8) That engine bay is definately one of the cleanest I've seen on a reasonably standard daily driver... 8) Looks like you bought a minter Jim, now you just gotta change your name! :wink: :roll: :lol:

It was supposed to be on the road for the 22nd Feb (Dubfreeze) but I haven't got the bits for my gearbox rebuild yet, so the car's stuck where it is... :roll: :( As soon as I get the box sorted, I can plonk it all back together, get it sprayed up and she'll be back on the road again... :D 8) Easily before the summer... 8)

I am soooooo looking forward to getting mine back on the road again... nearly 7 months now... :shock: :cry:

run the RCAs with the speaker cables and you should get no problems whatsoever... It's only the power that needs to be seperated. 8)

yup, spot on... 8) The euro range has a 0.05 scale (you can tune into 105.45 if you want to, although all UK stations use just a 0.1 scale - 105.4, 98.9 etc) The US scale is completely different... You also have the same problems with Jap/asian stereos as they use a much smaller range (89 - 104 IIRC) where we use 85 - 107 (ish!) I know that some American radios are switchable (Bought an Awia walkman there about 12 years ago with a euro/american switch for the radio range) but I can't see why they'd have that on a car radio... Hope this helps... 8)

That doesn't happen on Corrados... The heating controls only control the vents that control the air vents, so the heater matrix has always got coolant flowing through it at whatever temp the engine's coolant is at... 8) These problems both sound like a blockage to me... It sounds like someone has put 2 non-mixable coolants into the system which have reacted and solidified in the waterways somewhere causing the blockage. I dunno how you'd test that theory or even clear it out, but that's where I start thinking from if you've already replaced the thermostat and checked for leaks... :|

It's to get the TUV rating... the reason they've got offset pins on the bulbs is so that you can't accidentally put a clear bulb (with straight pins) into the holder so having clear flashing indicators... (hence why they come with different holders too!) If you look at the rear molding you can see where they've just not cut out the holes in the lightbacks for the clips for the original bulb holders... I've just drilled them out and the original bulb holders then fit perfectly. Oh, and I've got some straight pin'd silver (shine amber!) bulbs for mine too... 8)

Wow! They really suit that colour Phil K! 8) You could do with some silver indicators though! :wink:

lemme get this right, :? If your car is making the noise at around 60, and you press the clutch in, does the noise stay at the same level, or does it alter as the engine's revs drop to idle as you are still rolling along at around 60mph? If the noise is only road speed dependant, ie. the noise stays constant at a speed, no matter what the engine is doing (idling of driving the car) then it's most likely to be part of the transmission side of the car, or possibly brakes rubbing or a dodgy bush... Wheel bearings, dodgy CV joints, differential or gearbox... :| Did you ask at the tyre place about the bearings, and what sort of state are your brake disks in?

Nice one... 8) I didn't know that, but I'll store it in my memory for if it's ever needed... 8) Actually, I'll just use the words ALL ENGINE CODES in this post so that I can find it easily in the search! :wink:

It is VITAL to the running of a G60 that the vacuum hose between the engine and the ECU is EXACTLY 100cm long. If it's not, then you'll get all sorts of weird running problems... The rest of the vacuum hoses just need to be in good condition with a good seal at each end... 8) If I were you, I'd check that hose, then change plugs, rotor arm and dizzy cap and see what changes if anything...

Sorted it for you... ;)

:shock: I REALLY hope they ain't got mine down as a 16v... It's got agreed value on it at the moment (they've not seen the stripped down photos!) and will be having a new value agreed when I re-insure... 8)

Hey! I do wiring for a living! If I can't mess about with the wires in my car, where can I?!? :wink: :lol: :lol:

As I have to "fiddle" with the stereo to turn it off when I turn the car off, I find it reminds me to take the face off the stereo so I don't end up with a pile of glass on the seat, a damaged dashboard and a missing head unit... :| my 2p... 8) It's a case of each to their own and what you prefer... 8)

I always wire my stereos like this... 8)

I hope so, I'm planning on mending mine while it's off the car! :roll: :lol:

It's all done by a vaccuum hose onto the back of the speedo. Check that this hose hasn't come loose or become damaged in the engine bay. If I remember correctly, it connects onto the valve for the brake servo on UK cars, but I don't know about LHD cars... :?

what engine?!? If it's a G60 there's a fuel line that goes onto the pressure regulator at the end of the injector rail that has a habit of splitting and leaking petrol... :? Or it could be that your exhaust manifold has cracked or is loose... :| Either way, it's worth getting it checked out, as a burnt out car, or a poisoned you is not what you want! :shock: :wink:

Firstly check for a blown fuse... :wink: :roll: Then it's a case of taking the stereo out and finding a constant live wire to attach to your stereo so that it'll keep it's memory, as you're only connected to the ignition live at the moment... Hope this helps....

Have you ever had the head rebuilt? If not then I'd lay odds on it being Valve guides and stem seals letting oil past and into the cylinders... You'll have to take the head off to get the guides done, and will be able to tell if it's the gasket once it's off... 8) At least doing a headgasket on a 16V isn't that bad due to it being X-flow and being able to get access to the exhaust manifold easily... :roll: Good Luck! 8)

They do look fantastic though, even if they are a lot of work... :wink: 8)

Yeah, if you're running a smaller pulley with chip you start to get close to the upper limit of how much fuel that the original injectors can provide so run the risk of blowing your engine up due to running lean... Bigger injectors (higher flow, same physical size!) will solve this problem... 8)

polished rim Gold bolts gold BBS writing on the caps Chrome/polished nut on the caps :roll: :wink: 8)