Henny

the coolant system is designed to be pressurised... (0.8bar IIRC) Water boils at a higher temperature when pressurised... With the leaks you had there, you're system becomes unpressurised as it warms up, this knock the temps up causing more the water to boil, release much more gas and over-pressurise the system... Give it a go for a few days now you've fixed the leaks keeping a close eye on the temp gauge and the oil temps and see how it goes on... 8)

Both Kev and I have done this in the dim and distant past... It's a reasonably simple mod that makes a really nice difference... Oh, and if you order the lupo arm of an LHD car then you can get the blade to sit under the arm making it look that little bit neater... 8) Looks good on yours though KipVR... 8)

yup, they'll be fine mate... 8) It's only the VR that needed different suspension as it has the "PLUS" MKIII based front setup...

paddyg, don't check the pump, check the plug onto the pump for power when locking/unlocking... much easier... ;)

Blue_Joe, no! I've already told you... The Hub, you STILL haven't got it right! :lol: (that leaves the door WIIIIDDDEEEE open for the correct answer! )

on the expansion tank there's the small pipe from the top hose... remove the cap to the expansion tank (WHEN COLD!!!) and also remove this pipe. Feed the pipe into the top of the expansion tank and hold it there so you can see the end of it. Now get someone to start the engine. You should see a pretty much steady flow of water through the small pipe into the expansion tank... If not, then you've no water circulation so either this pipe is blocked, or your water pump has had it... If there is flow, stop the engine and re-connect the pipe properly again. Now restart the engine and leave the expansion tank cap off for a little while until the engine starts to warm up... if you can see the water bubbling up from the middle of the expansion tank (quite a bit) before it's got warm, then you really need to get the bubbles sniffed by a gas analyser to check for CO and HCs as it's looking like a weaping head gasket... The thermostat is in the black plastic part of the waterpump housing on a 4 cylinder Corrado, but I have no idea on the VR engine...

ummmm.... got a complete car (J-DUB) in bits in my garage with at least another couple of HUGE boxes of bits with it, my house has more boxes of bits kicking around in it than I care to think about, a towbar and pair of seats in the utility room, a complete subframe, wishbone and steering rack in the dining room, and then a MKI golf in bits in my parents garage along with some more huge boxes of bits for that too... I really need to get a grip on my VW addiction... :oops: :lol:

Wait for Sunday... I'm interested what people will make of the sound of my little G with this G-werks head on it... it sounds like an american dragster on tickover (very lumpy sounding, yet very smooth) and then under load you get the whine from the toothed belt, the growl from the supercharger and the induction through the air box upto a scream as she gets over 4.5K... I keep wanting to find tunnels to blat through with the windows down at the moment... the noise is almost as good as actually driving her! :lol:

so do I mate.... so do I... ;) 8)

man, that sucks big time... hope you can get something sorted out with it... 8)

Sit in the boot with the pump connected to the power, but NOT to the pipe. Set the alarm... Does the pump go? If it does, you've got a split hose....

well, that article shows that the wheels aren't sided... :( So much for German engineering quality... :roll:

ummmm... never actually managed to sell a 'rado... however I've written two off... :oops: :roll:

for volume that may help, but for staging, imaging and quality, that's gonna suck big time... :|

ooh, I like this thread... can I guess? :lol: No-one's got it yet... ;) I'll drop a hint by saying this: Before this last rebuild when this engine was in J-DUB I took her to Bruntingthorpe and got a peak boost figure down the straight of 23PSI... When I started with this rebuild, I wanted to take a G60 charged engine as far as it could be taken without running a pulley which would cause it to need a rebuild in under 18 months of the milage I do... I think that the boost figure I got up at Chipwizards at redline pretty much says that I've achieved my goal... 8) :twisted:

right, time to fix the car and bugger off home... 8)

nice looking rims though.... wonder if they're sided like Jay's 'Vette rims??

Ooops, looks like someone screwed up with the scale on the blueprints! :lol:

hooo-fecking-ray! Looks like they're gonna do it now... :)

I could swear the unveiling was supposed to be at 5:30... :roll:

:sleeping:

feck me... how many "Presidents of the institute of..." are they gonna find to announce things and talk drivvel!?!?!?! :roll: JUST PULL THE SHEET OFF!!!

I used the Ferrodo on standard VAG ones originally on J-DUB and didn't like 'em so I took 'em off and bought some Mintex instead. I'm now using the exact same Ferrodo ones with some drilled disks that came with H-YYU and they're pretty good... (I only re-used the pads 'cos the pads that were on the car ran out of material on the way home from picking her up when I first bought her and I needed pads on a Sunday... I've not bothered to change 'em since 'cos they're pretty good... :) )

fitted a new toothed belt and solid tensioner to replace the dead tensioner that's caused the engine to spit out 3 kit-form belts in the last week.... :roll: Gonna enjoy the journey home now safe in the knowledge that I'm not gonna snap another belt... 8)

that old skool Audi looked kinda cool though... 8) WTF has the world cup gotta do with a fecking TT?!?!? :roll: Just show the car will ya so I can go fix my car and go home...