Rams

A few pics of Craig's VR and mine. I had to chuck my camera in the bin so again, iphone quality. I know then next time I will give people some notice but there are a handful of local nice cars. I will save that for another topic. My c is now on d90's. I know I planned to do polished lips but I had a real nighmare with the wheels in getting the coating off so they were zinc coated, and face of wheels masked and painted bright silver with slight flek with the rest of the wheels black.

I think you need to use the new fuel rail but perhaps change the pressure regulator as the golf's run at 3 bar and the corrado at 4 bar? I really am not 100 percent sure but I found that the inforamtion wasnt fast coming and was told to refer to how it was done on previous threads when I started asking questions. I would wait till someone of better knowledge has confirmed though. I hope once you master it that you can do a write up as I will be doing mine at some point. I never really got to the bottom of what was required for late rados when doing the conversion. Perhaps the fuel rail will be ok to use? I hope someone gets back to you. Come on OBD2 people, help the man out at time of need!

Im not the best person to reply but from what I understand is you can cut the excess loom out or leave it in? Depends how neat you want the loom. The loom that you use would be the golf loom that plugs directly into fuse board. From that hopefully you can read what the next stages are or pm one of the guys that have completed the task.

Thanks for your replies, its always good to be reminded that there are many components to making a turbo and it can easily spiral out of control. So buying a VRT is out of the question for me. I've recently had the car fully re sprayed, fitted Gaz Gold fully adjustable coilovers and polly bushes, all new engine mounts, front and rear eibach arb's, new chains, tensioners, guides, tappets, water pump, braided fuel hoses, braided brake lines, Jetex 2 box system into decat pipe. So I have at least a quarter of that list already. If I stay under a certain amount of boost/power, I can retain the standard fuel pump and lines, saving some initial costs. Is that correct information? I've just thought, if I made my current engine a turbo one, use a spacer kit and get everything else plumbed in and the obd2. Possibly uprate the valves, bearings, shells and strap it all down with the ARP's. Would enable me to have a sensible VRT and gradually making the 2.8 block into a forge block with all the reinforcement and with some experience I would have built up will enable me to make a good job of the 2.8 block with lower compression pistons and forge internals. What would you guys do if you were me having the 2 engines? I knew I would need some form of traction control and I like the sound of the wavetrack system. I would be happy to achieve 320 / 340 bhp, more than happy infact untill I could make the new block more than capable of handling bigger power. What roughly do you think I will need to spend to achieve 340/350 BHP? 3 to 4k for what I will call stage 1? Thanks for the offer on the forge items but until I know exactly the direction to take, it might work out cheaper for me to buy a kit or a bulk package?

I have myself and Craig so far going for a drive shortly, I know its short notice but if anyone want to come out for a drive and grab a coke somewhere, give me a shout or call me 07968 743339. Leaving in 20 minutes to head over to Craig near Homebase - Alder hills way. The day looks like its going to a nice driving day!

Yesterday must have been my lucky day, I came accross a guy breaking a Golf VR6 P reg whilst collecting some second hand parts for my van. I started the conversation with him as his Golf was Mystic Blue. I ended up buying everything, 2.8 vr engine with gearbox, air con, with everything required, spare gearbox, ram air induction kit, bonrath power roah and a few other bits. Some of these items I will be selling on later. OK, bit I need the advise and guidence with is what I do now. I always recognised a good place to start was with a spare 2.8 engine, is this a AAA engine code? Next step, strip engine and buy some ARP conrod and engine bolts. Woosner pistons, conrods etc to make a nice job of it. Now, do I have the 2.8 made into 2.9 or do I check the condition first and have a clean up? Is the gearbox geared different to my vr gearbox? As the new parts came from a newer vw will this have been improved on what I have? Can I do this job with advise from here and passing that knowledge to my mechanic Chubby? Or shall I build the engine then take the car down to Vince or DG to install the turbo? I have all the parts required now for OBD2, so if the engine is coming out, I can have that fitted and the air con. I know it defeats the object slightly for power gains, but I would rather make the car as comfortable as one can with some refinements and power. Problem is, my vr engine is running so well, it feels so alive now since doing the timing stuff etc. Can some people guide me down the right path. I did see some items for sale recently but looked yesterday and couldnt find them. Think they were JE pistons etc. So, I have this spare lump in my friends garage, and looking forward to your valued advise. From this I can start my Turbo build.

The wheels are on and looking good! Have lowered the car but on my drive tonight found light rubbing when I gunned it round a bumpy bend. I did sofen them up as it was too hard and I was jumping up and down even when I arrived at my destination. It was so bad! lol Tomorrow I might lift them up 5 mm. A funny thing happened today, I went to collect some parts for my Transit and a golf vr6 pulled up. I said to the guy that it was a nice colour - mystic blue - and so the conversation started. He told me he was breaking the car as it could bear anyone driving it as it was his pride and joy, he said he had already sold the coilovers and he showed me a Bonrath power rohr, ram air induction kit and bought them for £15. I 've been after an OBD 2 loom from ecu to fuse board since I can remember so I said I wanted the loom and if he could take it out carefully. Then I spotted the air con and alpine door speakers. Then alarm bells ring, 2.8 block, ideal for turbo application.................. I also heard the engibe running both as he pulled up and as he drove onto the ramps and the engine sounds lovely and smooth, even the main tensioner bearings sounded smooth. He added that he had a spare gearbox but had a slight wine between 1st and 2nd but would throw that in, so engine plus gearbox, spare box, all the other bits for £250! Even the air con, rad, pump, pipe work and will have the new loom air con ready. I ended up having it put in my van, borought the guys crane lift and within 20 minutes, it was in my friends garage. So, need to find out if the gearbox is different to my vr, is the golf vr box better/different? Now I need to decide once and for all. Turbo or supercharge? I have turbo days then I doubt my decision.... The way I see it is the rado is for fun, its all my hard earned money becoming something tangable. So Turbo makes sence, plus my mechanic Chubby knows Turbos so that helps matters. Will be reading up on what to do with the 2.8 block, make into 2.9 and change pistons, seals, conrods etc strap it all down, get the new loom in place, engine out and can complete the pint job with doing the engine bay. Couldn't say no to £250! My trimmer had finished all my bits, the rear view mirror was taken to pieces and trimmed in such a neat way it just looks amazing, the sun visors were also a piece of art. He managed to retain both mirrors and even leather trimmed the plastic mirror slider on the drivers sunvisor! To top it all off, I had him leather trim the ashtray. It is faultless. Bad points, my door has a paint crack, I have an idea on whats happened but it need to be stripped back and re done and the cills are not quite right on closer inspection. I wanted it smooth and in some places they were and others not. I want to get rid of the dimples for a smooth body like finish. So the car is booked back in on the 14th March to take care of this. Pics to follow

Sorted the headlight issue thanks to the forum. The painter had connected it up and with the headlight upgrade it didnt like it! Windows now fully working. mirrors now fully working but when you press arrow up, mirror goes down and all the opposite directions. Is this correct or should you press right arror for mirror to go out right. I think its round the wrong way.... Other than the sunroof seal, if I get the roof sliding back, the rubber seal works ok, sometimes doesnt fully compress when closed in 1 or 2 small areas. If I get the roof to tilt it would slide back unless I press down a bit on the rear and then she goes back fine. The seal was put on with the join to the long front line and re reading C5 OEM thread it says it should go from right hand side short length. The car is going back in tomorrow for inner arches and cills to be protected and coated so everything is sealed and longer lasting. Wheels going on too, it should really be a different looking car with the wider stance. This saturday has seemed to take forever to arrive! The exhaust is sounding deeper already, really think it was a great purchase especially with the discount. Had the small dent removed in the wing, had to watch him gently hammer my wing which made certain bits of skin wobble. lol, You would never know it was there! Got all the Amp cables and rca's in before the carpet went down so its nice and neat, just need to buy some spreakers and an amp. Still a few niggly bits to sort, havent put the lower door rubbers on yet, the ones under the door itself, but will do this today once all the glue is removed. Also, the Halfords LED indicator bulbs are blinking nice and orange through the all red rear lights. A couple of round trim bits that I have no idea where they go. The search continues.

Thanks pal, still having issues with door poppers! lol. I've remove the horrid poppers and they are rusting already. They were advertised as stainless! Yeah right! Having someone copy the design and making out of billet and a bit smaller. Also, the rubber stopper split and the has exposed metal that I dont want grinding away at the door. How are you getting on with your machine?

Advertise it for a figure you feel its worth and see what response you get. I bought mine very cheap, it needed lots of work though. If your is just surface rust and not major welding then it would be worth getting the rust tidyed up first. Your next purchaser if a C lover will probably re paint the car anyway but at least they feel they can drive the car for a while and sort any other typical faults. Also, gives people time to save up for the re spray but that owner should see some of that value come back at the other end. Next option could be breaking the car? Parts are definately going up in cost, especially obsoleet items but it might not be the route you want to take? E.G I bet someone would pay you £100 for the gear gator surround! £40/50 for a first aid kit under centre armrest so its not a bad idea?

Seat looks great and lovely paint! There are quite a few Storms getting the treatment at the moment, fair play to you mate

Fresh paint and very paranoid! Wheels going on next week and cant wait,

I've had a look just now but I assume I need to remove the headlight to get to the resitor?

This has helped me out, the painter must have connected mine back up. Maybe why my fuse burned out as it was too much voltage when the headlights were working on the side light position. I will double check tomorrow but think you have helped me sort it! Cheers

I have some troubles with the c. The headlight fuse burned on the inline fuse to he headlight upgrade wiring loom and I cant get side side lights. Unless the ignition is off. I also get full headlights with the light switch in the side light position. Central locking now sorted, but the immobiliser is not working. Nor is it flashing. I have had a look near the fuse board and found a couple of plugs that are not connected. A blue and yellow plug that will plug into one another. Also, another spare brown and white wire with a clear/white plug. Another yellow and brown wire with a spade conector that I fitted to the circular part up near the door grommit - earthing point I believe. Also mirrors wont adjust but make a noise. Heated seats are working, stereo but when I turned the fog lights on the 15 amp fuse blows. I havent tried a new fuse since I replaced the 20 amp one for the headlight loom. Yesterday, the windows worked but only down, then they didnt work at all but make the a noise like they are trying. I really want everything working, have been for a 40 mile drive tonight to give the battery a good charge. The coilovers need adjusting, too soft at the moment and the rear needs lowering but have to wait for the wheels to be ready so will hang on till then before getting the hight I want. Wiring is my worst nightmare but I am convinced there is an issue with the plugs / wiring near the fuse board. Must have happened as the doors were removed for painting the door shuts. Otherwise, the Jetex exhaust is just perfect. New Sat when the wheels go on, the inner arches are being painted and the cills to protect them.

Top man! The parts with the pads are for the bonnet, they are in now, the 3 right hand items are now in place, the small round sleves might be for the rear parcel shelf to hold the rubber stays??? The shim bits, I see, the jesus handle as it often referred to! I would never have worked that out although, IU havent fitted the handle yet! Sunroof bolts in. The 2 rubber stoppers, I have large ish ones in the tailgate and 2 large ones in the bonnet, so not sure where elese these go? Do the doors have stoppers? Honestly, thanks for this, I have been quite stressed out putting the car back together but 95 percent there now.

What type of screw/bolts hold the sunroof switch trim in place? Also, the seats belts, how close is the metal bracket to the slider? Is it just one large bolt or a washer? I have so many bits that im trying to piece together. Vagcat is down for some reason and dont know who else I can bring up pictures or slide shows? Any help would be awesome. Any ideas what the shim style bits are for? I do feel like a prat as I didnt organise myself but I didnt strip the car fully so cant remember where it all goes. My staff member taken off a job to help me!

Hi Craig, Car is now water tight, exhaust fitted tonight and sounds sweet. Still have to put the interior back in. I could do with a hand actually if you are about? I am trying to figure out where everything goes. Also, my main headlights are coming on when the switch is in the side light position. If you are too busy, would you be able to send me a few pictures of the seat belt parts and slam panel and rear boot area? Hows the manifold? I hear your car is very tidy and the guys were impressed. Hope he looked after you anyway

Mirror mirror on the wall....... Very impressive mate.

Ok, went down today to see the car and just cant believe this baby is mine. I just cant keep my eyes of it! The roof has to be re done as it scratched badly when opening, its good in a way as the small scratch yesterday was going to be fixed, now its going to be re done. Also, theres a tiny dent in the near side wing, I didnt notice it till the painter pointed it out. So I need to find a dent master company to sort it out. Its accessable from the inner wing. The more I think about it, I might try and put the inner arches back in and modify it to suit. Any stones that fling up could damage the bodywork. I'm a bit gutted about it as the car is spotless. On a happier note, I am so please with how it looks and the small extra colour coded bits and nice fresh paint over the splitter and scuttle panel make all the difference. The glass fitter showed me how the front screen went back together and I helped fit the screen. He put the rubbers on first so it could all be neat then fitted the screen. It was nice to see it being fitted, it kind of re assures you in a way. I have my personal plate on now, I showed you a while back but just the last 2 letters. What do you think? I've heard a few different comments but most read it as NICE VR. Again, sorry about the recent pictures, my camera died and I chucked it in the bin yesterday so I will buy something tomorrow ready for some good pics. Wheels will be another week I recon, I've asked him to do his best to get them painted as I dont want to drive the car with the current wheels. The wheels look silly now with the bigger arches. Thursday is the finishing post, car booked in once its collected to have the new exhaust fitted and then MOT friday. I should be able to get all he interior put back then.

Thats fortunate for you it buffed out. The windscreen fitter told me today that I needed a new rubber for the front middle section. I called TPS and waited to hear the words its not available, but he said, it was available and £6 pounds or something cheap! Result. I ordered 2!! LOL Seriously, just incase someone needs one at some point or a spare. My rubber must have been pushed back on too soon from when the screen had been removed before by previous owner as when I was pulling it off it damaged a section of it where the glue had made contact with the rubber. Painted the scuttle covers today matt black. Quite happy with how they look.PS The heat gun method does not work

my bad,

http://www.pistonheads.com/news/default.asp?storyId=23121 Incase anyone is interested

It's taking a fair bit of time to put everything back, took me and a few guys a good afternoon to refit headlining and sunroof trim. Someone how, the new seal around the sunroof has made a 1 cm scratch in the lacquer so I was a bit ****ed off but it can be fixed. They might paint a touch of lacquer on it and rub it back smooth. The paint is so sensitive. It happened whilst it was going back, I think the new seal and extra paint makes the seal a bit tighter and it was also catching whilst tilting. I also fitted the front number plate 3 mm more to one side so have to re do that. There was 5 of us holding the headliner so it didnt crease and felt like an operation with a guy inside 2 at the front and 2 at the back. Otherwise, anyone stripping their car, DON'T do what I did and just chuck everything into a couple of pots. I had to empty everything out and work out where it all lived. The best way I have learned is to bag everything that comes off each section, so you know that those items only go in that area or one better and label everything!! To be honest, its been stressing me out as I just want the thing back together so I can get the MOT. Bonnett now flatted back and will be polished today and hopefully the tailgate and all body parts to be re fitted today. Ordered all new scuttle clips and screws and new plastic roof gutter clips. These will be colour coded. But not the roof rubbers. Updates coming soon

Found the bits I needed, see picture for anyone else needing the scuttle clips, No 14