slugmaster100

Sorry to re-bring this old one up again, but I keep going in phases of trying to fix this, cos I just lose interest now and then! :| As suggested, I have removed all the injectors and checked the spray patterns which all looked good and all squirted pretty much the same amount of fuel in the same amount of time. - So that all seems ok. They also don't seem to leak out when left for a while (overnight) either. I've checked for vacuum leaks and found nothing of concern there. In regards to the warm up regulator, what do I need to check on that? I have done a resistance check across it and have got virtually no resistance at all - about 0.03 ohms I think - so short circuit. This is both at hot and cold so I'm not sure that it's doing much.... but I don't know! If you have a KR engine that runs properly with good MPG, would you check the resistance across your warm up regulator and let me know please... thanks! I have also checked the fuel pressure and have about 3.5bar reading all the time. From what I have read and discussed with people, I think that the higher the pressure on the gauge, the less is being injected. I also heard that the gauge reading should increase from around 1 bar to 3.5 bar over about 10 minutes as the engine warms up. If this is the case, then I suspect that low fuel pressure would cause the start-up spluttering, but I cannot work out how it would be using the fuel it is doing if it was running at 'lean/warmed up' pressure at all times! :? But I'm not sure what would be causing this either. I appreciate all your input to my problem, Rich.

Hi again.... I am still suffering around 22MPG from a pretty much standard 1.8 16v KR. I used to get at least 30MPG as mentioned above. I'll say what I've done, and welcome any further opinions etc. (I'm getting a bit fed up now!):... checked bottom pulley to top pulley timing marks - ok checked when timed up the cam positions (with the 2 'o' marks on the cam shafts) - ok checked ignition timing - 6 degrees checked CO content at idle - around about 1% checked resistance's of temp senders on back of head - all read the same and one is brand new replaced, and now unplugged cold start injector and thermo-time switch - so cannot be an issue injecting all the time re-wired the UFO shaped vacuum thing next to the air box as it had no live feed set up the idle micro-switch on the throttle flap so that gets pressed when it should replaced spark plugs and dissy cap (previously leads too) when I unplug the ISV it cuts out so thats seems to be working none of the injectors appear to be leaking externally I've run through some injection system cleaner it has also taken up the habit of spluttering to start in the morning as though a cylinder starts one after the other (only for a few seconds before its idling fine again). When it has been stood from warm for a couple of hours, it also misfires as though running on 3 cylinders for 30 odd seconds before it recovers and runs ok. Its not seeming to use any coolant or oil My mate said that when I pulled into the car park the other morning that it smelt as though it was running very rich (which would explain the fuel consumption) but I don't know how to test that, what is causing it to do it, and how to cure it or what to adjust! I hope someone knows whats up, cos I've run out of ideas and am rapidly running out of enthusiasm! many thanks, Rich.

Hi, An easy one for someone (possibly).... If you put 12v across the cold start injector, does it open (allow fuel to flow) or close (stop fuel from flowing)? If I have not got a 12v ignition feed to the black wire to the cold start injector (as I believe I should have from the starter motor - correct me if I'm wrong!), would this affect my fuel economy? thanks in advance! Rich.

now for my 2p, I had mine resprayed in tornado red, for which I took off the side strips and think it looks a lot better without them. But my car is red so they stand out a lot! Badges (front)... I put a badgeless front grille, eyebrow spoiler as I only had the original 6 (or 8???) slat grille so I prefer my 3 slatter (without 16v badge either). Badges (back)... Only the corrado badge in Tornado red, and VW badge in black. Didn't put the 16v one back on either. Lights... light smoke crystal ones with silver indicator bulbs. Clear side repeaters. I'm happy with it, as I think it subtly 'modernises' it slightly. (Weren't a big fan of the early 90's orange light thing! - but thats my opinion again!) I really like the colour you've done yours tho... looks great!

Thanks for the offer, but I think I'm going to upgrade slightly. Thanks anyway.

Hi, I've been having a look into some suspension out of necessity, but with a budget of around the 200 quid mark, I'm not in the market for any coilovers etc! I don't think I really go anywhere or do anything that makes me think I need to spend too much as I've been fine with the standards for the last 4 years! :lol: Does anyone have an opinion on "FK AKX Suspension kit 35-40mm" as seen on Venom for about £170? Or what are "JOM" coilovers like? Will this be marginally better than standard in terms of handlings, but still ok for comfort? Thanks, Rich.

jump away! :clap: :clap: :clap: I was also under the impression that earlier Corrado's were lower as standard (and mine's a 90 G-plate). So I don't want anything too low, just nice! Slight improvement in handling, coupled with not too much loss in ride comfort would be ideal! Cheers mucca's! Rich.

Hi, I have unfortunately heard the twang of a rear spring snapping at the weekend, checked it today and have indeed snapped the ol' spring! So... now I've to decide what to do for the best. In the nearly 4 years of owning the car, I have replaced all sorts of parts (bushes, subframe, wishbones etc.) but never replaced any shockers or springs. I have noticed too that the NSR shocker is starting to weep a bit. I think it would be an ideal opportunity to replace all my suspension, but I don't know what is out there and a good buy. I have seen on Ebay quite a few coilover kits for front and back, for a total including postage of about £200 (have a look, there's loads!). Does anybody know whether these kits are any good, or just cheap poop? When I had a Polo before, I lowered that 40mm and fitted Bilstein shockers all round. This was really good, so I don't know whether I should just go for uprated shockers and lowering springs? What are your opinions on what lowered suspension (not ridiculous, but subtly!) to go for, on a bit of a budget (got a house to do up too!)? Thanks, Rich.

Nice one.... I'll look elsewhere to find why my MPG is so poor at the mo! :lol: If you can find those figures tho, that'd be great as it'd be nice to know they're ok! Thanks again, Rich.

Good day one and all.... Right... on the back of the cylinder head on the KR (1.8 16v) engine, there are 3 temperature sensors - I believe all coolant. On the back of the head, at the very end of cylinder 4 area, there is another sensor. Is this also for coolant? :scratch: For these 4 sensors, does anyone know what resistance readings I should get from them at various engine temperature (a graph or table would be nice!). On the 3 on the back when the engine was virtually cold, I had 2 reading approx 0.42ohms, and one at 0.20ohms ish! Does this mean one is a bit dodge? Also whilst on the subject... at the other end of the cylinder head, this time at the front left side as you look at it, on the very corner of cyl 1 area cam cover, there is a bracket with a fat sensor thats a bit loppy (looks like some kind of temperature sensor to me) with one wire to it. I put my ohm meter on that and got 0 ohms... so straight to earth I think. What is this sensor for and what will it affect? Thanks for your patience!!! Rich.

slightly off subject, but is the skinny spare (i presume space saver) standard?... available for 4 stud? I have a full size spare, which means my boot floor has a wheel shaped lump on the floor which annoys me.

thanks for that, well, I've got 17" rims and not a lot of spare dosh, so the G60/VR6 ones are probably the best option. (stupid question, but i don't know... are they the same brakes on both the G60 and VR6?) Rich.

hi, just wondering... how much bigger are 280mm G60/VR6 brakes than the standard 1.8 16v ones? Are they worth upgrading, or am I just wasting my time? My fronts are about due for replacement so its an ideal time to look into it! Thanks, Rich.

Hi, About 2000 miles ago, my engine decided enough was enough and started running on just 2 cylinders. I have had the head off and it had burnt through the head between cylinders 3 and 4. I think this has been slowly happening over the course of the last year, and in all that time my MPG was around-about 28-35mpg (depending on what kind of driving obviously). The only thing that i was experiencing was a bit of trouble starting now and then. I have had my head repaired and skimmed (but not really anything extra shaven off i believe). I have re-ground all my valves and fitted new oil seals. I have set my CO to approximately 1-1.2%, and my ignition timing to 6 degrees. My idle is around 950-1000rpm. (this is all the same as before I took it all to bits i believe). In the 2000 miles since its all been back up and running, I haven't really felt much of a difference in performance, however my MPG has plummited to 22-26mpg! I have rechecked my CO and ignition timing which all are still ok, and there are no fuel leaks etc. Does anyone have any idea why my MPG has dropped so significantly??? Thanks!, Rich.

hi, i've been looking at the lockwood site and found some white dials and some sill trims: Dials: http://www.lockwoodinternational.co.uk/ ... -i424.html Sills: http://www.lockwoodinternational.co.uk/ ... -i909.html Has anyone fitted these or similar? And do you think they look good or cheap/cheesy? - - any pics? Also, do you think that the white dials with blue light illumination would look good? I've read about some LCD switching thing too... what are these and are they worth looking for also? Sorry for all the questions, and thanks in advance! Rich.