corrado9a

Hi all I have one short question that may be simple to ansewer. I am goinng to do a compression test next week but i got to think, that given that i am using 268 cams with this cams people always said that there is a fair amountof blow by given the high duration, will this affect the compression test results? thanks in advance for the replies Best R Julio

hi guys i have recently changed the exaust manfold (6 branch as you call it), the cat for a new TT high flow unit and the O2 sensor. (brand spanking new unit from the stealer). The car is runing fine aparently, smooth but weak as always, but I was feeling it was getting weaker by the day so i scanned it and it thow me a lambda code. 1 Fault Found: 00561 - Mixture Adaptation 14-00 - Adaptation Limit (Add) Exceeded with alll brand new parts what else can cause this fault to be thrown? thanks a lot in advance for your answers.

hi guys i ve been on the look out for some rs 301 wheels for quite some time now for a fair price. Since all the 301 wheels seem to be between Germany and UK, i am looking into other possibilities. Of 302 i can find ample supply, so the question is, Can a this BMW wheel be re-drilled to 5x100 and will the offset still fit in the original arches? From looking at the back of a 302 i thing i could be done, although i dont know about the integrity of the wheel and how "true" the wheel would be in the end. thanks a lot

I am looking for a set at a decent price. Can recondition them my self. If anyone has or knows, please give me a shout. Thanks

i got this picture taken and i kinda liking it a lot.

and now one more piece of meat in the pot. lets say that the itermediate shaft is off, therefore misalingning the CPS trigguer magnet and my ECU is not reading codes correctly, which is all very possible, and thats why i am loosing my estimate of 30hp after 4000 rpms etc... all making sense. But then if the inyection when continuous or bank injection, it should be pig rich right after 4000 rpms till the limiter, but the wide band in the rolling road read 0.92 until 5500 and 0.82 from there on. does that make sense?

then, can it be possible that the cam locking tool fits into place and the intermidiate shaft is out of position? I am going to check no matter what, but i want to understand how an itermediate sproket which is just transferring movement between the top and bottom sprockets, with no gearing addition/reduction, can have this timing effect if cam locking tool slits into place and the marks on the crank pulley seems to align. I looked for and read an engine manual last night and it all adds up, when i read it i see how is done, but i dont see how moving this mid-gear if top and bottom are correct, can have an effect. No doubt that it does and therefore the marks and the directions in the manual... but why. I owe you a beer or two, next time in the 25th anniversary meeting, or in Spain if you come by, i will make sure i can get you a couple of drinks on me. BR

yes he was reffering exactly to this. great pics and very very very helpfull. What i dont understand is: if the marks on the crank pulley and the slots for the cams are all in the right place, why does it matter the position for the intermediate pulley? i am asking because i am now going to take the car to a mechanic, (better skills than me) and he is going to ask me this exact question.

yes it does help a lot. You have a sustained torque of about 190-195 lbsft where i can only sustain about 160. this confirms me that i have something wrong this same afternoon i will open the flap in the VGI with direct vacumm once more to check that it works and doenst change a thing in the power delivery and then the weeken i will need to check the timing once more as Vince suggested but this time looking into the mid gear lignment. (i checked the with the cam alignment and TDC on cyl one while looking at the crank pulley mark) but that may not tell the whole story? THANKS A LOT and i mean it, to all of you guys giving me a hand. i really do apprecite the help

can anyone post a graph a car with similar modifications to mine. I googled a lot but find none or low value. 268 +VGI + almost whatever except FI

i dont have the cams anymore, i just could get a hold of the intake for an AAA engine and i will put it on just to test soon. I am crossing my fingers as i have nothing left to try, but i dont hold any hopes high as bypassing the actuator in the manifold and operate it on open all the time did not make any difference either. Now that i remember i even replaced the TPS because someone told me that it could be faulty and not throw a vag-com code. I sent a mail to Vince at the same time i wrote this post, lets see what is left to do, i have even thought about driving up there to UK to have him fixed it once for all but once i run the costs, i gave up, it would be cheaper to set it on fire. kev, thanks a lot for the help.

sorry to bring this thread back from the dead, but this is driving me f*¨^## nuts. I am runing out of ideas. As a summary. the actuator seems to be working fine, i can see it opening at 4000 rpms and it moves smoothly. I replaced the magnet on the cam for the CPS as i found it to be broken. The cam timing is spot on. I have been to a RR testing after each change and still gives me the same exact curve. Just to put it into perspective i am seeing a flat torque curve of 160 ft lbs after the peak of 195. the lambda is a little lean at 0.92 until 4500 rpms and 0.82 from there after. Any more ideas???

I am geetting blank page as well

Are they using the standard scirocco version with 210 Hp and not the R with 265? in other words, does using Natural Gas increasae the HP or decrease it?

yes, the hoses advice is very important. You need to check you cooling system as closely as possible, as it is highly stressed here. And in case you need help, there is a bunch of corrado nutters in Spain that can give you a hand with parts and advice. Let me know if there is something we can do for you over here.

the recaro from a fiesta has 6 allen bolts same as recaro from a VW to bolt down to the bases that latch onto the frame of the car. Nevertheless the recaros on ford seat a lot higher than on VWs so you will need to cut down the lowe part of the recaro seat until you get down to the frame of the seat itself and use the allen bolts i just metioned. Then to attach them on to your corrado you can try to find an original corrado/recaro base, which is rarer to find than a ...mmm... i better not sai it, get the frmes that mikyjayne said which are good copies and will probably go as low as the originals, or find a Mk2 reacor base that will seat higher than standard, about 5 cm.

I found some more info. The above picture is not correct, it is for a 97 on golf or so, it has single chain. The magnet part number is 021 905 163 and looks like this: nos does anyone have a picture of this mounted on the cam and explain how can this fall? It brakes and thats it? does it get eaten by the chains? why doesnt it throw a vagcom code?

some more info to mess my head. With the part number and a ETKA screen capture, I dont understand how can this go wrong...?? and more so if looking at a picture...

last night going theough some old posts i came through this. http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=19689&hilit=schrickmanifold+268 His problems are very similar to mine, and it seems like in the end it was all due to a faulty cam pos sensor trigguering wheel. I had a cps code and replaced it for a new one, but it did not change a thing at the time. I havent found much more info about this. Can anyone elaborate a little more about it? kev, you coined in and got it right then, can you please explain a little more? Car is a 94Vr with coilpack. thanks to all in advance

That could be the case, is my last option to check because it requires the most work, but is a possibility. Nevertheless, the max torque is there where it should be with a value that seems right, 265NM which is 195 ftlbs. I made a video of the actuator moving up and down just because given all the graphs are the same seems like it was not moving, but seems ok to me. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Qkmcv1ShsU i guess i have lots of work to do during these christmas hollidays.

size does not match OEM Corrado part. try to get one from an SLC which shouldnt be so hard.

a little update on what has happened. I added a vaccum tank as i had none and it could be the culprit of my problems. I went to the RR and dynoed the car. I got the exact same result. I was pretty pissed at that moment. Then i changed the vaccum lines on site and runned the schrick actuator directly from the brake booster (with the vacumm tank). This way the flapper is open all the time from idle to the end. We dynoed the car like this and once more we got the exact same result. Then i was not pissed, i was puzzled. How could this be. i see the actuator moving and being opened all the time and still got the 3000rpm torque bulge. I taked to Vince this saturday and after i check it the flap is moving all the way (which i will try to do today if is not too cold and late when i get home) i may need to send the whole intake to Stealth. :( i dont know at this point if I whish my flapper is not fully swinging (in which case i will need to ship it) or is working correctly (in which case i have no clue of what could be happening)

I talked to Vince last friday. he really is a usefull guy and realy realy helpful. following his advice, i did some tests; i routed the vacuum lines directly from the servo to the actuator. the flap then opened at idle and stayed open with the hood up while reving. then i took the car for a spin and it did ripped to the redline. it was starting to wake up at about 3500 rpms and it was a little soft in the upper midrange from 4000 until 5500 where i could feel it giving last effort to the limiter with renewd strength Then i re worked all the vacumm lines, i had no vaccum tank, so i added a small tank from a mk2 car with a one way valve in line and checked again. Actuator closed until 4000 and then opened again as it should and pulled more cleanly to the redline than it did lets say last week. What i need to do now is to take it to the rolling road and check perfomance again objectively, not against my spine. I will post results and lessons learned in case someone experience same problem. Thanks a lot to everyone that helped me. BR

I bought mine from someone in this forum which probably got it through a group buy. I think it worked ok on his car, but i know that this does not mean a thing now. i could happen now and not then. I will call Vince this same afternoon. Thanks for the help, it is great to ask here as you guys are far more advance into upgrading cars (corrados specially) than us in Spain. Thanks also for the english compliment :)

first thanks alot for the the replies. I have tried to contact vince by mail with the plot attached but i have no reply. i guess that short of harrasing him over the phone, which i dont know if he likes or not, i dont know what else to do. i guess that if anyone is friends with him could give me a hand. Regarding cam pos sensor. I had the code in the past and i replaced the sensor, cleaned the wire harness and the code never showed up again. In the past i trhought that was the culprit. But when i saw the graph it was cristal clear to me that it was the vgi, although i am not sure anymore. Then i thought that maybe with the hood down the underside was pressing on the vaccum line and maybe piching it because i could always see it moving. i replaced the all the vaccuum lines under the hood for new ones and the one going to the actuator for a smaller and tighter line. when the car was rolling roaded it had the hood up and the schrick moved; The only thing that is left to do is to take it appart and see if it does the full movement, because the flap is like a throtthle butterfly and maybe if it does not fully swing it does not work propperly? Thanks a lot once more for the help and excuse me if there is any mistake with my english.