mmacneill123

Happily it is SOLD to an enthusiast - turns out as well that stalling problem is just a knackered dashpot :-) As Solomon said, better to live on the roof of the house than with a whining woman and he had 1000 wives and 10000 concubines, I believe he knows what he was talking about :-) She has to be happy for my life to be peaceful...

In the olden days as a single guy that is exactly what i would have done :-)

The unthinkable (a week ago at least) has now happened and after many years of Corrado ownership I am having to sell for the sake of maintaining peace in the home (spent too much money on "it") and for my new wife to not be ashamed to get in my car (she is Japanese and in Japan nobody has a car over 10 yrs old, ever - I mean just about zero!!!). The good points: Fully adjustable suspension all round - tie rod ends just done on front suspension (Tuesday this week), tight and sharp 4 x v.good tyres, 3 x Toyo - went over nail a few weeks ago and 1x is a Barum on back Nice 15" Wolfrace alloys, slightly curbed in places but still great Custom exhaust - sounds awesome CDN (?) air box -sounds great sucking the air in 4 bar fuel reg (this week) New Bosch plugs and Bosch leads this week MOT Dec 2016 New MAF January 2016 New ISV April 2016 New Bosch Lambda sensor last month New starter motor Mar 2016 New battery Oct 2015 All temp sensors and radiator sensors replaced in last month New distributor, rotor arm Nov 2015 Replaced most important relays in box (Mototronic, Fuel Pump, Load Reduction, Rear wiper) this month Rear spoiler okay Water hose from block to heater/throttle body replaced this week All engine oil seals replaced Nov 2015 - no oil leaks at all Water pump replaced Nov 2015 New headlamp/glass Dec 2015 Drive Belt Tensioner replaced Jan 2015 (in engine photo) Smart steering heel New ignition switch and barrel (this month) New radiator and in-radiator switch and plumbing to bottom of block/oil filter (Dec 2015) New heater control unit - genuine VW replacement from VW-heritage, cost a fortune - well £350, last year sometime New genuine VW fuel rail direct from the factory - again, not cheap :-) New Rear Kenwood parcel shelf speakers - i have seriesed them with some smaller speakers that fit in the original speaker slots but have better power-rating, needs a little finishing but sounds great. New MP3/USB/Android Kenwood head unit 4 x 40W RMS. Has subwoofer output but I do not have a subwoofer! After-sales rear light replacements. Will include whatever spares I have (have two sets of rear lights and a few other bits and bobs) This still has the split rear seat and hump with original VW first aid kit and 3 of the 4 original mats. Hump I think was lost later in the model year! Seats in v-good condition but a little wear to drivers, no rips. New alarm/immobiliser fitted last year Loads of service history. "Bad" points/Advisories: 202000 miles - though for VR6 not that bad, no chain noise, a little tappet noise when idling, pulls really, really well (burnt off an Evoque last week, my wife said 'does that make you feel good?' - i said "yes") Bonnet suffers from me aerosoling it as a temporary measure before a full respray (the final straw!) as other little bits of paintwork but generally the body is in good shape. Lacquer had peeled badly and serious numbers of stone-chips so it is improved but untidy. Sunroof sealed shut - "temporary" measure when I rescued it in 2012, electrics fine but part of mechanism had broken - was on the sort out list! Speedo lazy when it is cold outside (always has been since I owned the car, never worsened) but sorts itself out within 15 or so minutes, all other MFA functions fine Drivers electric window jerky coming down, but has always been. Fine going up. Electric mirrors can be a bit sticky if not used for ever (like I have used them about twice in 4 years), after a clean of the switches they fine. Rear view mirror not in centre of window - the previous owner has araldited it on and when it fell off it left a hard lump on the windscreen so I moved it to the left and stuck it on with the right stuff. Original VW mirror though, and no viewing problems. Had to improvise when replacing the heater controls - previous owner had crow-barred them out breaking all the clips so the sealing is a little untidy around the edges, I used four clips and super-glued them in so I could screw the heater controls tight. One of the rear trim panels is missing a clip. Central locking functions most of the time but randomly stops working, was much improved after cleaning locks suggesting dodgy contacts. However, the biggie and hence the price is that is driveable (it is still my daily driver) but has been suffering from a misfiring problem since March this year which has been resistant to all attempts at me solving it (re: the list above) - it is in the garage again this week which if it gets diagnosed and fixed (my feeling is the distributor might have been slightly misfitted as sometimes everything is spot on and once cruising you seldom have a problem) the price will double! There is also a problem with stalling when left after being hot for 30 mins or so. My feeling is there is a leak in the vacuum (only fault coming from VAG-COM is Lambda out of range, too high - suggesting a leak. Looked at lambda on trip and see it dropping and moving as it should, out of range on idle suggesting a leak). Exhaust had to be resealed for MOT as lambda was too high, could be same problem. All in all, for peace in the home (we married and moved in together in March and to the lady it seems all I have done is spend money on the wrong woman) I am offering this for is £1150 (which does not even cover the cost of what has been spent in the last two months!!) and someone will sort the problem out and laugh all the way to 300K. I will be extremely glad if it goes to a good Corrado loving home and lives happily ever after! Will not even consider offer under £1000, am in Newcastle Upon Tyne but would happily drive it one more time (at a price) nationwide. HAPPILY DELIVERED TO NEW OWNER AFTER DRIVING 300 MILES ALMOST FLAWLESSLY, GREAT WAY TO REMEMBER THE CAR AFTER ALL THE TRIBULATIONS OF LAST 3 MONTHS!

Happily announce it came out without too much trouble and the car is back after months of replacing the MAF, ISV, temperature sensors... attempting to sort the running problem!

No, that is what I am asking! Just reading about it, it could be a really difficult to get out, possibly seized into the exhaust... Most of the posts about it elsewhere seem to suggest penetrating oil, hammers and a small blow torch :-) Is a length of 611mm enough for the cable, seems to be a few choices?

Hi guys How easy is it to replace a Lambda sensor? Do you need to do any soldering or is it just loosening a bolt and putting the newbie in its place? Its a VR6 and the replacement sensor is the Bosch 0258-003-267 (reliably obtained from another post!)

Just the pins and cleaned the fuse box contacts too - has helped the running generally so thought it a good idea to replace them anyway with some new ones on the way :-) None of the dials plummet so do not think it is a general power fault - just loses all power but sometimes recover if I leave the clutch in for a few seconds and let it roll - especially not good when you are trying to overtake!

Thanks for that - I have had VAG-COM on with the engine running for a good while and the Lambda fault is the only one that pops back up as soon as it is cleared. Hopefully the Lambda will be changed soon and did the MAF just before Xmas. Head gasket pretty sure okay, had that happen already :-)

Hi folks Picture this, you are happily doing the speed limit on the motorway and suddenly you lose power - sometimes throttle has no effect as you tumble possibly all the way down to stationary, splutter and suddenly you are okay again for 20 mins; other times throttle just causes lots of preignition and no power increase. When the engine is pretty warm and you go into the supermarket for 20 mins, come out again, car will start but die straightaway - takes a few times to splutter, again throttle no effect, suddenly it will run and if you keep it high revs it will keep running. Idle stays low until it has been running again for a good while. Cold idle is initial fine but then lumpy until it is up to temperature. MAF, ISV, plugs, plug-leads, temperature sensors replaced, cleaned up the fuel-pump relay and ECU relay. Only VAG-COM fault code is Lambda out of regulation range - Lambda sensor is due for replacement but have a feeling that will not cure the problem owing to the fact it happens when the sensor value is ignored at speed. I am hearing a tick from the fuel-pump relay when the ignition is in the on-position but not started, which is why I am wondering whether it could be dicky relay or an unhappy fuel-pump. Any genius mechanics out there?? Please persuade me this is fixable or should I opt for my wife's preference for me, a new VW-UP :-(

Just in case anyone else has as much fun as I did - changing the google search eventually yielded results!! The fuel pump relay is VW857951253 which translates into Meyle 1009060001 which can be found on VW heritage as 191-906-383/C because 191-906-383 is the Skoda code for the same part... The ECU/Main power supply is actually 1J0-906-381/A. I think the confusion results on Google because this position in a lot of VWs, Audis etc can also double up as the relay for the fuel pump and some VWs of the 1990s also fed the ECU directly from the fusebox so there is a multitude of conflicting info. Googling on VW relay 109 rather than Corrado Mototronic ECU relay (+ 10 variants I tried!) successfully finds the info!!

Thanks Ray, got the fuel pump one no problem as I was bright enough to write that down when I pulled everything out last night - for some reason (probably because I had read position 109 on VW-Heritage) did not think to write it down for the other one :-) My fusebox cover is actually screw-clipped in so it takes a bit of time to get it off! Was trying to order this morning as just cleaning the relays seems to have had a positive effect!

Hi folks Does anyone out there know the part number for the Mototronic Engine Control module relay (position 3 with 109 stamped on the top), seems mission impossible googling this and cannot get to the car to check it atm (supposed to be working!) Looking at VW heritage they talk about position 109 but it seems to apply to more than one relay, there are then relays for fuel pump/digifant control unit but not the Mototronic so really need to get the right part number!

Much appreciated guys, been having trouble with a O2 fault code, so that could explain a lot!

Much appreciated guys, been having trouble with a O2 fault code, so that could explain a lot!

Hi guys, Apols for the vagueness of this request and lack of a photo (atm) ...at the bottom rear of the engine, just above the join of the centre section and front of the exhaust, there is a meaty bracket with what I think was an 8-or 10-pin connector and another smaller connector right next to it. The larger connector has two of the pins separated off so you can only put the connector on one way. What are they for? The reason I am asking was the 8/10 pin one was pretty badly corroded on the contacts and one connector almost looked beyond repair :-)

Thanks Jim, eventually found it: **** Cheers Yan, I just did some digging and found that out. was talking to 2cc and he kindly whipped his sender off his engine (which was removed) and gave me the part number of 701 919 369 B Which when put into ETKA has been dropped and replaced by 701 919 369 D which is, as you say Blue/black not Yellow/black. **** Very reasonable on VW heritage https://www.vwheritage.com

Thanks for that - yep, it is yellow but apparently it is brown if you have A/C (I was sure I saw a picture with a brown one so looked again!!), then had a break at work and looked at my engine :-) Do you know where you can get a replacement or what the part number would be?

You might find it evens out in time, my understanding is the ECU will re-learn the right settings as you have been running off so it has been trying to compensate. You could do an ECU reset (take the battery leads off for about 15 mins and then go for a VARIED drive) and see if that helps. Just replaced the blue temp sensor on mine (I sinned and got a Haas one from Eurocarparts, part no: 224440221) and it has caused major improvements - take the plugs out and have a look, if they are black or there are deposits on them then it is running too rich and the sensor is probably faulty. If it is difficult to start in the morning, it will be too lean and the sensor again is likely to be faulty. I was getting a Lambda fault on VAG-COM where as the fault was actually the sensor to reiterate John's point, fault-codes are only a guide to something amiss in the system as a whole, do the easy relatively cheap stuff first!

Hi guys The three temperature sensors in the row as the front of the block: The blue I know - for the ECU, just replaced it, long-term idling and running problem on the mend so very happy! The two pin black one - is this for the temperature gauge on the instruments or just the warning light, googling has proved inconclusive as I know the warning light can also be triggered by the expansion tank sensor! My temperature gauge has always shown low, so I am willing to invest if this could be the problem! The four pin brown one - googling reports it is for A/C cutoff but I do not have A/C fitted to the car. I thought fan cut-off would be next favourite but thought there was a switch in the radiator for that. In the wake of all this contradictory info, can someone clarify for me ? :-)

Thanks everybody for the replies, I was too busy on Saturday with idle tribulations after changing plugs and leads (and unintentionally destroying a new lead for lack of sufficiently long nose pliers!). I went from fastest coolest thing on the road during the test-drive to spluttering at a roundabout as I watched arcing down a plug-hole That is super-good Jekel, I have an inkling something is still amiss so may well - idle is fine on startup, rough after a few minutes until the engine warms....if you are driving you suddenly feel an increase in power and things have smoothed out. Had the distributor and cap changed too in the quest for smooth running (and because a bit fell off!) so am running short of ideas. Have you found a mechanic you can trust, I am having real trouble finding reliable and/or knowledgeable!! Just invested in a VAG-COM reader but the adapter has not arrived yet, it will be interesting to see if anything is recorded.

Hi guys Just had to replace in rapid succession the Mass Flow sensor and the ISV so idle is a bit all over the place atm though I am no longer head-butting the steering wheel as it randomly opened and shut (slightly exaggerating but not much :-) or spluttering to a halt at traffic lights on roundabouts (no exaggeration at all :-) ) I assume an ECU reset is a good idea or do I just wait for things to settle down? My reviews of resetting the ECU range from amazingly simple - disconnect the battery for 15mins, let it idle for 5-10, drive around a bit hard-throttling in 3rd and 4th to having to hook it up to VAGxxx change parameters and all sorts..., or even just disconnect the Mass Flow Sensor (forces a reset to the default MAP?) Any advice? Cheers!

Thanks Jim, appreciate that! Whilst i am here - is there anywhere you can recommend that will fix the sunroofs? Took it took local garage and they just laughed at the diagram they got from VW! My electrics etc are all fine, runners okay but whatever is closest to the windscreen had seized when I rescued the car and it was sealed shut? :-)

Hi, these are all super-cool pics, I actually meant a technical layout diagram pointing out where the ISV etc are before i import in a £70 manual from VW America!! :-)

Hi folks, is there a good general picture of the layout of the VR6 engine....the manual I have the pic is about 6cm x 2cm, i.e. useless!! Cheers

Yes, that was it!thanks for that, just looks like my clip is not tight enough!