Paulr1980

hahaha Already posted in that thread :) In fact the next meet was my idea. Be good to get together with some Corrado owners again.

WOW, now that's a nice compliment! Thanks!! White seems to not be many peoples fave colour, the fact that it's just a valver and isn't concourse means that I take it for what it is and do my best with the tools, skills and little money I am able to put into it. When someone says something like that it makes it worthwhile (on top of it being fappin great fun to drive). Look forward to seeing you at a Worcs meet, there's one at the end of the month so come along. Paul20v - Thanks for the nice comment dude. Appreciated. P

U wouldnt recormend them them as budget coilovers?? They are fine as budget coilovers, nothing wrong with them and the height adjustability is good. They are coated well and haven't rusted and I can still move the collars with the C spanner. For £220 (I think that's what they've gone down to on the bay) you can go wrong. It's just that my requirements have changed a bit and I need a bit more from suspension now. Can recommend them if you want to go low for no money.

Hello Mr plod hows things? :) I saw that you're selling yours (pistonheads). That's a shame but congrats on the wedding. Anytime you need a rado fix let me know and I'll chuck you my keys. Thanks for the comments.. It's budget but it's getting there.

I just call them the 'slags' as they are branded all sorts of names 'Jamex' 'Traxx' 'Raceland'... I'm sure they will be branded J-tec as well. They are TUV passed so can't be horrific build. I was tempted to drill a hole in each of the coilover collars and put an allen grub screw in as a locking mechanism as there isn't anything but I haven't so far and had no trouble with them coming loose. SK - thanks buddy. Inlet was from Bogg brothers. Looked around at other possibilities but a bogg kit is about as cheap and as good quality as you can get. I didn't have to faff with the set up of the carbs at all to get running. Literally plug and play.

They are ok. Not ideal really but good enough to get away with in the short term. They are very stiff so for track work they would be ok but can be a little stiff for road use. They would be better if you could damper adjust as I'd just soften them a little. I'll probably spend a fair bit on suspension in the middle of the year and get some AST's fitted. At the time I just wanted it lowered on a strict budget and it did that pretty well.

Yeah yellow glass fronts. Takes an hour or so to do. Piece of cake really. Just make sure you get all the glass out of the frame which can take a while. Considering mine were cracked it made no difference if I buggered them up.

Thanks guys.. Riley - bog standard engine wise. I'm not worried about making huge power. It was done partly because I loved the idea of bike carbs and partly because I'd never really done any work on a car, certainly not custom work. Was an excersize in whether or not I could actually do it. Turns out I could. :) CM - Thanks dude. I got them from the bay as with most of the stuff I've got. Just keep your eyes peeled and keep popping in 'split rims' in the search and they'll eventually come up. Just be prepared to travel. I had to drive 4 hours round trip for them. I also bought a trimsport rear brace on the bay before crimbo for £40 :) veedub21 - I'll post up the dyno graph on monday when it's run up and fettled with. No idea what it'll run. It's certainly better than it was previously. Loads more torque and that's with overfuelling for safety and no ignition set up. Piece of cake to do really. Couple of headscratchers but mostly because I didn't have anyone to talk to who'd already done it. If you do go for it then just pm me with any questions and I'll be glad to help. Thanks for the nice words all.

Just thought I'd chuck a new couple up since I haven't updated this in months... Don't mind putting pics up now the damn things on the road. lol

Just wanted to say that set up is the tits!!!! Well done dude. I'm not sure I can justify going to that extent (much as I'd like to) but i'll certainly be brembo'ing up in the next couple of months.

Me to.. i'm gutting the sunnie (tilts and slides if anyone is interested) and just using sikaflex to bond a carbon panel in and then some anodised allen bolts as retaining bolts. There's a chap on ebay that quoted me about £100 for a panel. HTH

A mate uses and swears by it in his SC'd Mx5... I was going to use it in my car but forgot to buy some when changing the coolant.. I'll certainly be getting some soon though.

Apologies for the shitty pic and the fact its on the p155 but it's all I had. You get the idea though.

Problem is that I need more like 5 PSi not 5 bar..... That's why the oe jobbie is no good for the job. thanks for the thought though.

Also worth considering Mitsi Evo RS recaro's as I did.. Picked both fronts up in black that matches the rest of the standard rado interior (not that I have any anymore... lol) for £200. They look great, are supportive and allow the use of harnesses (not to everyones requirement but useful if tracking it.) I'll post a pic up later when I get home if you are interested.

I successfully managed to kill my oe fuel pump on my bike carb converted valver which I always knew would be a weak point (should have done this in the first place really) so am fitting a red top pump. Absolutely no idea where to start... haha I took the cover off the inside of the boot and there is a pump there built into the tank. I take it that is the lift pump?? I understand the main pump in under the o/s/r of the car?? If anyone has fitted one before on a C and could give me some pointers of mounting points, wiring, problems to expect.. etc I'd be very grateful. My shitebox clio has 2 weeks MOT left and it'll be going to the scrapper then so I need to get it done by then. Thanks all!!

Sorted it. The breather pipe I'd attached was too small a bore for it to handle the pressure so backed up to the crank case, hence the oil out of the cap. Totally vented the breather (very temp) and it's perfect. All problems bar a slightly iffy HT lead are solved. Thanks for your help though.

Ok. Tried a new oil filler from GSF. Was a little better but took the car for a spin and as soon as it was put under load. Yup oil everywhere. Crank case pressure must be very high which makes me think that the oil breather system I've got either isn't working or like I first though there are two breathers or something... Just to recap, I've run the oil pressure switch breather to a catch tank. Blocked off the larger tube and ran a tee off the smaller one to the tank. I'm starting to think that it's that and that it's too restrictive?????? Could really use some help here. If there's another breather that you know about, please say. Cheers

First problem.. I put my powder coated rocker cover on. It now leaks oil from the cap but only under load. Idling is ok.. Any ideas? The odd thing is, I used two filler caps. One was the old one and never leaked before and the other I can't vouch for as it came with the cover. Second problem... The above, I'm worried about because i'm thinking it might be too much crank case pressure.. I've taken the take off from the oil pressure switch and ran that to a catch tank but I keep seeing post about another breather pipe but I can't see where it would come from. Can someone with a KR just show/tell me where to look for the breather so I can make sure it's not blocked and then run it to the catch tank. Cheers muchacho's

I've done it!!! With no real clue what to do other than some basic understanding of what needs to come off and some guess work and magic, I've got a fully running car on bike carbs. No dodgy idle, no misfires, no poor revving. Just perfect.. Ok, not strictly true. The throttle is a little sticky so isn't too quick to slow the revs down on over-run but that's tiny. Should be MOT'd be Tuesday and on the road weds. Misson fucking acomplished! Now, where did I put that bit of paper with the Megajolt diagram again lol

Sorry to hear your having troubles and I can't answer your questions but have to ask (I'm sure you've said somewhere else) but why is the Vortech coming off?? Oh and 8 hours!?!? Try 6 weeks fella lol

I wouldn't at that price but would on a cheapy. My car was sub a grand and had bits of history therefore a gamble was a cheapy gamble. I went on the person selling it's personality, what the had done to the car since they owned it, colour of the oil and tidyness of it when viewing. Different story on something more expensive and specialist. SH is a must, even if its indie SH. Under a grand then take a punt, over a grand but less than three, give it some consideration and check the bills carefully, over three then SH required. I've only owned one pup by doing this. I've had 20 odd cars so far.

Well I'm going to stick my neck out and risk getting the piss taken out of me royally. Smart Brabus roadster... There's no point in selling my c now. A G plate, white C just isn't worth anything and I still love it so why get a few beer tokens and lose a car you love. All I'd do is add a car that's modern and is some light relief. Go on then, get piss taking.

At the moment for the first couple of month I'll be using the standard dizzy. Not ideal I know but I've spent enough for the moment. As soon as I'm back on track with my bank account (couple of weeks) I'll pop to Omex (who are 5 minutes from where I work) and get them to sort me out with mapable ignition. It'll be dyno'd at Mech Motorsport in Cheltenham and if I can afford it I'll combine Omex with the dyno'ing of the car. Whatever it makes, it should sound pretty sweet and it's different and that's good enough for me. I'm not interested in chasing huge power. It's unlikely that I'd ever have the sklils to use it on the track.

I'm almost at the point where I can start (or attempt to) the car. It's all plumbed in. The carbs now fit although parts of it were a complete ballache. Lots more fiddling around getting new coolant piping and many other little bits. I've still got concerns. A dodgy HT lead, the fact the there are quite a few joins in the fuel pipe and not knowing how to set up my filter king all are a bit of a worry. I've decided to have someone on hand with a fire extinguisher when I kick it over. On the plus side, I don't have to chop a bigass hole in my bonnet for the filter to fit and I also can relax about the carbs fouling everything under the sun. The final things to do now are to fit the throttle cable and adjust its length to make sure I'll get full throttle and to fill with coolant. That's it... It'll just be a case of priming the pump and cranking it over. Here's how it looks at the moment, similar to the above but it's what I took tonight.