GazzaG60

Guys. im not a lover of the base map/running in map theory/excuse. as far as im concerned a base map or running in map is only a part done map and one big no-no is running in an engine on unfinished maps. 1500 miles of easy driving will do nothing other than polish the bores also. motortuneusa is how id go about it but maybe less redline. use only running in oil too. dont use normal semi or fully otherwise the rings ull never seat. run at least a proper tuned fuel map and a concervative timing map to win the day. not too concervative on timing or else itll get real hot in there.

never got stopped once in the 6 years i had my corrado. it was the most copper friendly car ive owned.

if you can get to the sides of the bolts snap on bolt extractors are great. they are designed for removing rounded bolts but work equally well with allen heads. alternatively hammer a torq or star into the hole and try that. the first suggestion works best from experience of stripping many a manifold etc off a 16v.

good stuff. liking it.

yes the wear is of the rod bearings ususally. you may have a dry or blocked lifter thats making the top end noise. maybe pull um out and soak in oil for a few days if you can.

is the block knackered. if not then why do it with only 120k. the closest to replacement must be the crank and rod shells/bearings. the rod once can be done witht eh sump off and crank still in no problem. symptoms is a knocking clack type noise bout 2-3krpm that clears above that. you hit issues when it comes ot pistons and rings. this is where the money starts and the standard block dissapears. to refit the pistons would require rings that are a bit bigger. also the block would need honing to allow the rings to seat properly. rods would need centre bore checking and new bolts fitting, machining of centre bore to make true again. crank may require a polish to make good. use proper assembly lube and not engine oil. pack the oil pump with lube before yuo prime the engine. ill increase the suction dramatically reducing the time it takes for oil to get about. thats to do it proper. you could refit the pistons with new rings, same rods and bolts and fit new shells only.

i tried a golf oil cooler fitting for the filter. it would'nt clear the silencer box or a U-bend.

id rather get it cleared up and over with. not too into having this type of stuff outstanding. i think by the time i have sold all the bits i have etc i will have paid for the S2 anyway. the insurance on the S2 is also cheaper than the G60 so maybe one good thing out of it. ill miss the corrado though. many times the underdog and almost as many the victor.

its a shame and i wish it wouldn't have happened but shit happens. if i could keep her and put her back on the road i would. wanna see as much of this project through as possible and hoping a mate is gonna take most of the 16vt parts off me and continue to make a tyre shredder. thanks for the comments guys. if i can ever help out i will try to do so.

571 plus vat for a front bumper. lights inner, outer wing front panel fog, indicator headlamp wheel arch liners G60 intercooler. repair fitting and paint. ive just bought a 95 Audi S2 anyway so onward and upward. still sticking to 4 valve turbo. looking to crack the 500 whp mark in a year or so.

i only got one good wing mirror. white van man 2 months ago.

im not best pleased to say the least. i have spent around 18 months getting together parts and building engines only for the rug to be pulled from under my feet. i could have had another corrado but id be in the same situation as i was needing a race spec head and at least a diff in the 6 speed box to have a chance of holding it together so no more corrado for me. i shouted at her once. called her an idiot but she was so shook up i couldn't really say much. if i had have managed to avoid her then i would have fired a few fucks into her then but that would have been a different tale. Im not leaving the ideas of fast cars and projects behind me. as i say i am keeping the defi stuff and wideband. and the turbo for my next money pit.

bad news on the corrado front. after 6 years of ownership car is destroyed. a kind person decided to do a U turn from a parked position in the road in front of me. car is hurt real bad. wing inner wing bumper, etc its gonna be a write-off so thats the end of the engine story so far. the kit i collected is being sold on to persons who can make better use of them. im keeping the defi stuff and wideband, majority of the rest is for sale. let me know if you require any parts for a G60 or 16vt.

not much point on a 4 pot let alone one without 2 banks of cylinders. The subaru legacy B4 is a TT. 0 point. may as well use one good quality turbo.

where bouts in manchester are you mate? ive seen off a couple of muppets in my time trying to take my RCs. i had a rocco or 2 and loved um. got lifted by a wagon from outside my house. the corrado is still with me for now.

depends on what you want, what you have and the skills and cash also. if we are lookingf at 4 pots then botha re good and i think personnally equal arguements for each engine. best drop over to the 16v forced induction thread for that. for the 6 pot kev is probly the furthest down that road. vr6 FI thread. in all honest the difference when you come down to it is 2 cylinders. turbos are turbos. there is this the arguement that 6 is better than 4 and 4 handles better than 6. personal preference. in the UK most are bias to a 6 pot or 1.8t where as in america it is a fairer more argued and informed split. for reference as far as im aware the fastest normal corrado is a 1.8t running a 9.9 ish in america still front wheel drive.

the 5cyl s2 is basically a 16v with an extra pot on it. in an audi engine bay its shoved under the bulkhead and up against the radiator so may not fit in a corrado without body mods. it mount longitudally so is an issue unles you plan to run a gearbox of this type too. ive seen an s2 or s4 box and they are huge. also it may not line up in the wheel arches too well so plenty of angly on the shafts. personally id go 80quattro if i wanted a longitudal engine and 4x4 that way otherwise id look down the existing routes. you can get over 500 at the wheels from a 16vt so power limits are not a worry. if you want something different then yes maybe but probly better getting an s2 coupe unless you want a corrado. another possability is a volvo box. not too sure if they bolt up or not but they are haldex so will run in a similar manner to the 4motion stuff. basically anything that goes in the hole will fit. my mate has a 2.4 subaru engine with a fully built block and ported heads and custom cams for sale if you want one of those. good for 8.5krpm and lots of power depending on boost. he has 2 of these and im gonna tune the other one soon for hopefully around 600hp.

s2 is a great engine but may as well stick to a 16vt. itll fit properly for a starter. engine bay length is the issue along with fitting a box to the s2 as im fairly sure the 4 pot box wont bolt up.

the stang is 75mm. the vr one fits inside it no worries as does the subaru one i planned to use originally. there is a picture in my post on the conversion of it. i only paid bout 60 quid for it brand new with a throttle pot. i got a vr one to to try if i cant get more than 20mpg from the stang never used the v powers. im a big fan of cheap plugs as a plug is a plug as long as its gapped properly. i prefer copper for its resilience too over irids or plats. not sure how DTA works but can you change the sensor bottom point up a fraction so it misses the very low cold fueling. either that or alter the map which is the proper way. nice to hear you get traction. i hope i do.

depends on how picky about idle you are i suppose and the isv aint that great anyway. I have no isv on my G60 and its fine even in this cold snap. ill use a timing trough too kev for idle to an extent. i have a 02m spec clutches alloy flywheel so i may need it to catch. currentyl working on trying ot mount the VR throttle damper to the 'stang body im gonna use. BK7re are the plug of choice for me. bout 1.90 each.

im not really electronically minded to the extent of resistoprs transistor etc. the beauty of MS is the support and plenty of nice people who can help. its all about doing the most research you can first before asking questions otherwise help isn't always at hand

its nice to have torque but im kinda pissewd with spinning wheels all the time. i know the valve will bring some of that and 400 ish hp is deff gonna spin them but with the right map i feel i can make the transition to boost smooth for the road. the slower spool on my sc61 will help that. i know where your comming from. 2 of my mates have NA valves and they feel a tad slugish in the low end especially compared with the G60. hope i like it after all my hard work. picked up a turbosmart e-boost 2 the other day. hoping to use that to good effect too.

fair doos that. but they aint crap. these aint race cars either plenty of 400 wheel road hondas. yes you would need slicks for a 10 but most sub 12 vws run slicks too. most spirited driving is not in the mid range either its 4-6k maybe 7k or 8k. even the G60 wont win a bypass sprint short shifting.

depends how you look at it. id say its pretty good to make any power at 9krpm. most fwd cars can put down a full 240lbsft. if you get 4k to 9k thats a nice flat 240lbsft for 5krpm. very fast indeed. torque only breaks things and traction is the first thing in fwd. not wanting to cause an arguement but id expect a 240lbsft b18c to stonk all over your vr with 100lbsft more. how many sub 10 hondas are there compared with vws. plenty of 1.6 hondas will show vrt and 16vt alike their rear end.

what dave says above but on the G60 you need a passat G60 tB or auto with the TPS as the G60 only uses switches. you need to run mapDOT on the ECU instead of TPS DOT with the standard G60 TB. dependant on board type (ms board) you will benifit from the ignition module fitted to normal 16v cars as this is the best way to convert ms to msns. on a G60 this ignition control is built into the ECU. with ms you need the module toi do things right on v2.2 if you want to run the isv. o29q is handy for both hi res code(bigger injectors) and isv control. you need a tpp122 and heatsink insatead of fidle to control the soleniod speed of the isv properly.