GazzaG60

is the ECU faulty. im not sure but there may be 2 injector drivers in the ECU and if 1 is down it may cause an issue. ive seen subarus where they are running cold on 1 and the others make it run like ass becuase of the O2 correction. or shall i say it gets worse as the o2 trys to correct the AF by overfueling the others other than that i rec u will have done all the usuals mate if you need to try an ecu with a 30# injector chip in it i got mine.

i thought about selling mine. i couldn't after driving other things but i only got 1. if you got 2 then you could sell 1 and save a load of corrado hassle. the joys of a highly modded lump. what issues are you getting mate.

depends what you want to spend. Im gonna get mine from cncheads in stockport. ric wood is a known master at heads. they aint the cheapest but maybe the best.

i run greens and turbo grooves for a while. well i run the discs for a while they were very good. the original greens were poor retained too much heat and warped discs. i believe more copper is in v4 pads so were better but never went back. did provide the best combo perf wise. ive tried on std calipers and disc size

when you unplug the blue it stalls? is your base timing correct. it shouldn't stall.

not sure any of us are on your side of the water. its difficult for us to say where you need to go but the stealer aint too bad on the thrusts. i got my mains and rods from ecp or gsf. they seem ok.

got a part no for those bearings or where you ordered from. my new rods are not drilled and id like ones without holes.

do the crank ones need doing. rod ones are easy. remove the sump and oil pump for easy access. if you want to fit bolts ideally you need the end of the rod resizing. you can usr arp bolts for a ford 289/302 non boss. factory rods are rifle drilled and so the shells have holes. for the crank its best to remove it. remember to get the 4 piece thrust as there are 2 piece in the US. otherwise the crank will walk.

6 speed 02m.? light flywheel and vr clutch on 02A? 16v G60 bracket setup?

id go. sns chip red tops if 65mm 65mm boost return delete. filter. cat bypass. setup from darren. maybe fit it all. thats gotta be round 500 quid well spent.

most definately. didn't have time last night as i was busy fixing the issue. but itll be done after for sure. my mates subaru had an injector seal issue once and it pumped loads in. bout 2l into the oil. im sure its after-run related but its a new issue to me and im sure ive had most of the things that go wrong happen to me.

car runs great. in fact the full engine has had a clean ouot. the petrol come out kinda mucky. it was like the car was priming but with injectors fully open. must have took only 1-2 minutes to fill the engine and inlets. good news is the bottom end seems solid so far i can see no fuel in the oil. i expected the oil to be full.

no cold start on the G60 is there. i run a very similar setup to you but with red tops and a 65mm pulley. all 4 squirters were running at full pelt

well i had something happen that i havnt seen before. after a drive last night i stopped the car and about 30 seconds lateri hear this noise. i pop the bonnet and hear a water type sound. seconds later i see liquid coing from the isv and throttle body. it fuel!! quick 10mm spanner to the battery and it stops. after syphoning the inlet out and puishing the car in 5th with no plugs to push the fuel out i could get her to run again. the fact that i had no fire was lucky or seemed so. ive put it down to an issue with the after run switch or relay. any body with an issue like this before or may know what the source of the problem may be. it was very hot which is why i think after run but it pumped bout 1 gallon of juice into the engine. cheers

is that yours done. gotta help with flow somewhat. not sure on the strength issues though. i heard a long while back maybe 4 yrs now that 3 was not too good an idea but again personal preference and experience with this type of stuff plays. i was told to avoid the 65mm pulley but its been great and the charger has been fine.

i can see where you are coming from but pressing in bearings isn't too difficult. pressing in bushes and stuff is harder IMO although the outcome of a bad job may be less catastophic. each to their own really. im pretty sure gavin used the guide the first one he did. admitedly darren did help with one of the seals over the phone. top chap. diy or darren. not jabba for a port speaking from experience.

really. didn't know they stopped selling them. personally didn't think it was too much of a job. H100 vw helped me with mine last time. only issues were getting the seals to sit nice. i doubt i could justify 500 quid on a rebuild when i take it out of the car for the new engine. i only paid 399 for my sc61 turbo brand new. id be looking for a seal kit again.

500 quid is a lot for a 20k service and some porting which at the end of the day is what it is. 500 quid every 2 yrs or so mounts up. admitedly you are paying for darren's knowhow but a charger is less complex than its proposition is scary. do it yourself for less than half. just buy the seal kit from darren as he has good ones.

its not too bad a job. plenty of cleaning and stuff. get a full rebuild kit and away you go. its not bad to split. only port the oil runner slightly my home built charger (with thanks to Gavin) has lasted about 25000 miles on the 65mm so far. its time for another build.

good idea. no knowing much about air-co. how much gas is in the system. what i did learn with my mates is that at low boost the cooler may not need to be on. it still cools a little but not a lot but if the charge is only low temp its ok. under 7psi i wouldn't use a cooler anyway so aircon system may be a winner.

pink stuff is waterwetter. the japs use it lots but vws leak too much to justify the cost, or is that just mine?

. cnc heads post graphs of both 8 and 16v and a std valve 16v head ported by them flows more than a 8 v big valve head. was it the Glader at full puff that limited the 16v? counterflow head can only support a smallish turbo too. no point having a big pulley on a glader if the turbo can outflow it by 2.5krpm. the 80-20 rule again.

looks good keith. is that a pwr core. it looks like what my mate has. the pump he has is large too. it sits in the wheel well in the boot gravity fed by a large tank. the rad he uses is a fiat chiqechento one. personnally id want more water than that. id want 4l min i think. water's thermal efficiency goes both ways. it takes a while to warm and to cool. we can put it into prospective though. you dont need top spec stuff for most vw. a subaru legacy turbo chargecooler will support over 300hp and over 1 bar boost no worries and thats on the 2 stage 6/14gph pump and small rad.

id stick to an eaton for it. no point breaking a G lader. they are either gated or clutched. id expect you would need an actuated charger to release pressure or allow it to stop working. the actuator could be controlled to allow smooth power transition. you may as well just use a good turbo though and put up with a 1000rpm or so of lag. its the old 80-20 rule.

not with a G60 charger anyway.