GazzaG60

thats about 240lbs ft at 9krpm. def in honda b18c or 16a no worries. more boost and 700 wheel. turbo wise gt35 35r 40, sc61 are usual honda blowers. look far too big but their engines are far superior to ours. those figures are pie ion the sky for most vw 16v owners. cnc heads reckon they made 540 crank on a audi 16v with 1 bar. one super head and a big set of cams.

As for if you go big valve or not that depends on how you want your power delivery - bigger valves will mean a lower revving engine. 16v heads do flow well out of the box but after they have been breathed on by CNC Heads then 252bhp from a N/A engine at 8.5 RPM with inlet, exhaust, cam and fuel mods is not to be sniffed at. bigger valves will make a higher revver mate. itll be flat low down due to air velocity speeds. a tad more lag maybe. 2krpm extra revs with a big valve cnc 16v head. for FI they recommend bigger valves in the exhaust side. takes the cost to close to 1500 quid. still saving.

5v engines can make massive power. it aint a waste of time at all its just that to get the lift on the cams to create very high flow costs an arm. that lift is there on a 16v already. it still takes a lot of effort to make a 16v head flow what a standard big valve 20v will. there are lots of high power 20vs about using proper turbos and manifolds to match. .not k04 or ihi. proper turbos. its easier and cheaper to see 350 out of a 20v but easier and cheaper to see 450 from a 16v

intercooler is very similar to mine. itll be non too easy to fit. im thinking no slam panel support, cutaway bumpers and no towing eye. i run a pacet pro 12in fan on my G60 rad. it fits great and provides `1668cfm. no need for 2 just one near the radiator outlet this will enable the rad to be moved back a few inches no worries. fan is around 4-5 inch shallower than the standard fan and motor.

heard some good reports on 034. chose megasquirt due to cost as much as anything. if you are serious about the kkk then id look into digi 1 from a G60 with a chip. itll do those powewr goals quite easily and if you are not into mapping/engine management it can help the project.

what do the plugs look like? they tell the story of an engine better than anything take photos and post up.

not sure the valve recesses are in the right place to clear the valves. 5 v versus 4v

you can use an adapter or use the oil pressure on the filter housing. you will need a restricor if you use one of those though.

come to think of it maybe its oil temp for the mfa but either way back of head.

take the oil feed from the oil pressure fitting on the back of the head. its close and low pressure so as not to damage the seals in the turbo. water cooling is more effective for the road. it helps to warm/cool the turbo after a run. oil can dry in the bearings if a run down period isn't done with oil only. oil and water - a safer daily turbo. hence the reason most road cars have oil and water.

manifold still want to be bigger. boost in the head not in the inlet

looks like that manifold can only take a standard throttle body.not really big enough for large power. a bit to small in the plenum too id say.

a quick few bits here then rear mount - dutch dub front mount home made. G60 use inner cvs from a transporter 108mm top standard spline shafts. VR use cut down standard 02m ones to vr outers you need starter slave selector clutch flywheel drivelink will make shafts too for similar money i have all but the custom shafts which im gonna have made off the cut down G60 ones so they are the right length first time.

thats why i got a 02m petrol box and also cos its stronger. when i spoke to stealth they said they had never seen a broken cog. in genral longer gears tends to suit more turbo owner to maximise the benifits of the turbo but after my mate did the 6 speed swap in his impreza with the t04r it was great. using the bigger turbo also means more power at the top so the shorter ratios are not that limiting think its time for a 02M for you kev too if you like the short stuff

*cough* tdi box *cough* should see some nice battles in the coming year or so with so many turbo conversions on the way. along with a big queue at the tyre shop

the kr rods will do around 300hp no issues. think they are the same as 9a rods which with ARP rod bolts will hold 350 wheel. seems that 9a pistons and rods will hold more than 1.8t stuff. its the torque spike of the 28rs that breaks things. high boost small turbo = high torque@low rpm=broken bits. as a rule of thumb id say upto 300hp stack gaskets on a standard motor and run a bar with a good tune.

5metres sounds a lot but it aint. i reckon on 30-60 metres needed for the job. depending on how easy it is to wrap and the bore of the pipes. my snake turbo manifold fore the 16v took around 35m of 2in to finish.

it is hard to get the benifit out of headers and in particular SS ones with out it though. corrosion aint too much of an issue either with SS

i got 2 x 50ftx2 in rolls for around 75 dollars from summit racing. id get 1x 2in and 1x 1in to cover all. should be enough. get some wrap spray too to seal it up. dampen the wrap so that it doesn't send clouds of fibre off. wrap it and dry. 2 coats of spray are about right.

it is around 20 quid, its a new beetle part. got one on mine. saves filling a catch can.

hello mate. hope you had a nice christmas. you will be due a visit over here by the time im ready. hopefully by april time itll be in. i want it ready for the summer. plan a few visits to york dragway this year. wanna see sub 13 by the time the next cold spell hits. need to find 3k to put in and im done i think. should have an extra 4 ton company car allowance from next month to put in too. the company have also agreed to pay for some of my insurance. not sure they know whats going under the bonnet yet. still waiting for an oil line for my charger which bust on startup after fitting the heater matrix so in an mx-5 at the moment.

how bout a 02m diesel box. may fit the G60 rev range nicely. still gonna burn out to 70-80mph at WOT on a 65mm from experience

i have used a couple. my mate has a big karcher car cleaner thing so i used that. have used the special soap and also autoglym but the old faithful stardrops takes some beating.

a box change wont help really. a taller box may get you traction at the expense of speed/accelleration. its just the characteristic of a high torwue low rev engine FWD. i have had these isseus for over 2 yrs. my answer is to change engine for one with more up top and maybe less peak torque -16vt torque spins wheels and breaks things HP makes you go fast

hi right tonight i will dig out the digi cam and take a few picks. iv not done much for the last few weeks - too cold to get motivated. on this project as over the end of last week i was fitting a new heater matrix. id rather fit an engine any day. i am missing 2 items now before i build. it could have been done by now to a lower spec but im gonig the whole hog now. i need a cylinder head done by cnc heads. i want to be able to run the lowest amount of pressure in the engine i can get away with. the work im having is around 1400 quid. then i need a diff fitting to my 02m gearbox. anothe grand. got around 5k in the engine and box now. i have no real deadline for fitment as long as im happy with it. what i have found is some ityems delay progress like samcos that take 3 months to arrive.