GazzaG60

id go with simiar power figures but a bit free'er with a cone filter unless its warm like now then airbox all the way. gotta sound 100hp less with the airbox though

no singling you out kev. just you had what seemed the most informed opinion of the posts. sorry if it felt that way.

gotta agree on that. cost is always the major driver esp iv vw. my mate must have 20k in his engine and box so the extra few $$ are not as noticable. it is a nice neat setup though

is a jabsco pump. pwr 6in x 12 in cooler, tank mounted in boot. yes it adds to the wgight of the car but the tank is on the large side. at the end of the day this system is specced up for 600hp. id look for a gallon min ideally 2. as long as the pump flows no bubbles and there is enough water to run a full gear without it being used again its fine. the usual downfall is not enough water for a gear. the subaru is a lot better balanced than the c plus awd. you dont even know the tanks there. depends on your power requirements and your blower efficiency. its not a 1 kit suits all thing. AW cost more too. main adv are thermal efficiency, pipe lengths no need to hack the front. no point having a massive FMIC if it doesn't get air. i will add im going FMIC on my C though. i didn't want the large tank but did see where i could have piping lenghts not exceeding 1m excluding cooler.

a bit one sided kev. the reason AW dont work as well as big FMIC is becuase they are under specced 9/10 times. my mate runs a pwr chargecooler on his subaru. a charge cooler is all about the pump and rad rather than the cooler. yes it matters but not as much. get a high flow pump. not one of these 6-12gph pumps a proper one. no bubbles. fit a nice cooler. as an everyday unit air-water has a better efficiency rate than air air. down to waters thermal efficiency. you need lots of water to make it work right. my mate used 4 gallons. his temps never go over 50. the pump is only on every now and again. the big turbo offsets this slightly as they dont turn into a fireball at 1 bar but i dont think he uses the pump at all under 1 bar. we fitted a air temp sensor in the back of the inlet as he used a pace setup prior. flow through a AW is also a lot better, pressure drop is less and off boost response is noteably better.

thanks mel.

back from the dead. thanks mel. what flywheel are you using. think im gonna start on a tdi clutch.

a nice na engine is good but the amount you need to but into the head and bottom end to make it worth having itbs is a shit load plus a small turbo on a standard valve with stacked gaskets at say 10psi will make a far better driver and probalby more epower

thats a volkspeed mount. blue joe. been runnig mine for 3 yrs

the brackets are very poor. i snapped one. i fitted a new othe rone and broke the retainer bits that are metal for the pipes etc off before i got home. the low down of a tuned G60 kills them. i dont think a bad mount would help but i think your bracket would have broken anyway unless you welded it all up. Somebody design a proper bracket darren

ive broke 2 engine mount brackets on my G60. 1 on the standard mount when i first modded it. it ripped the mount in 2 also and the second on my volkspeed mount. the brackets are arse

get somebody to do the head for you. for what it costs its easier and not a lot in it cost wise. no need to use a specialist in vw. just a good engine shop. if you are putting in pistons and rings you will need at least a hone on the block too. otherwise compression will suffer as the rings wont bed in. lots of spanners and sockets. torque wrench. if you are not used to it get a magnifer to inspect the crank and bores. then you will at least know whats in front of you. 12 point star for the headbolts.

ive gone t3/t4e 60 with a 0.63 stage 5 hotside. basically a non bb gt35. may upgrade to a "s" casing at some time in the future. it quite a big unit. probly wont see proper boost till 4k on the 16v.

what is it. 50 trim 0.48 hotside?

gotta be some flow advantages along with the bigger turbo possabilities and less heat on the intake. would be nice to see what thats worth. what turbo you running on that leon.

i probly wouldn't have the same fitment issues. i fancy a mk2 golf drift car. engine in the back. probly room for the bigger blower then. thats one of the main reasons i am going 16v. i wanted a big turbo. i was told spool can be a bit high on a good turbo too. a bit like a on off escort turbo style. i doubt the 16v will be any different though. ive moved my aims so many times now. i know phat has done one but anybody elso go for the xflow 8v. would be nice to compare the 2.

your turnng up the airflow the pressure increase is due to no increase in port size against the greater volume of air. tis all good anyway whats the lag like on the vf24 on the 8v and hows the fitment cos its tight down there. i got a spare G60 engine soon. may do a build.

i got my 9a pistons for $460. rods are comming in at $300 and the bore and sleeve £200. it can mount up. i got no history on my engine though and am aiming for 400-450hp. i got my ms ready built. i had to buy an ignition module and am chaning the circuits so i can use the ISV. im gonna start with 550cc injectors but get a set of 800cc or so for when i up the boost. good luck mate.

ive run a 65mm on my G60 for ages so i know what boost is. ive tuned t04r turbo on subaru. thats flow not boost. those bad boys would suck in a VF through the inlet. boost is relative to flow and yes you will make more power at a lower boost level on a good port. less heat less resatriction, what boost. what you will see ona n ihi is less power after a certain boost level. they are more noticable when out of the efficiency range than say a garret and in general its lower boost too. if the engine uses up all the boost like olly said turbo isn't big enough and the engine will run poor as the cam phasing on FI doesn't scavenge too well. all in all boost has no relation to power unless you are benchmarknig against a specific item. less boost is better but the restrictive nature of 8v means ususally high boost vehicles make better power. my turob wont hit efficiency till 24psi so no worries for me.

looking good mate. your a bit in front of me. my engines still on a stand. ive gone for scat rods which im waiting for and forged wiseco pistons. how you getting on with the ms. whats your power goals. id get some proper engine mounts too. my G60 snaps the brackets aon the front mount now. i use a volkspeed wC mount on the front. think we gotta get the 16vt guys together when we are done and give it to the 1.8t brigade.

you still have to push the same relative difference though. what will happen is the port will mean you need to work the turbo even harder to attain the same level of boost.

anything can be done mate if you try. its just nuts n bolts. its the tuning side you need to either learn about or get somebody to do. the G60 box is fine. its the choice in america for 16vt. put a diff in it and itll be fine for 300hp.

i cant see it mate. you have probably the worst 1/4 mile vw. heavy short wheelbase. remember the 20v engine from stealth will develope the power smoother than the 8v too. its not impossible but very difficullt. put the engine in a golf then go for it with slicks

boost on engines isn't directly related. a smaller chamber can handle gra eater pressures in general but that doesn't mean more power. displacemnet is the key. it may only take a small amout of bbost to hit good figures on a vr but its turbo dependant too. a vr usually is equiped with a larger turbo that therfore flows more air at a given level. you gotta boost a k03/04 to 20 +psi for good torque and reasonable power cos they flow poor. its all about boost on a this type of engine so m ore boost for me is the answer as the bottom end is always gonna be poor compared with a vr or even a na car. i think matts right bang for buck on the engine but you gotta consider the fitment costs of the 1.8t too. id get my vr checked over first if i wewre you. a quick hone may be all you need with it. then its new pistons and get the head rebuilt. then make the choice for more power. id say you can have a hone and pistons with the required other parts for about 600 quid.

boring to a 2.2? is it possible. its a 159mm rod right with a 81.5mm piston. my 9a is on 83mm pistons and the capacity is only raised by about 15cc im pretty sure for big capacity you need a 95.5mm crank from a diesel with major mods, good rods and 84mm pistons. that takes the bore to the limit. no point when its about boost. scrap the ever so poor k03/k04 turbos and get a proper blower for real power or efficiency. the 1.8 t needs a bit more lag. if you have a vr then is there much point in changing to a 20v cost wise. is it not better to build the vr.