GazzaG60

not saying you are wrong. I see 80psi on my gauge at tickover whe cold so i aint trying it cos 3k will be close to 100psi-not good for seals. perhaps from dead cold the oil is too thick to give a proper feed to the 0.4bar swithc or it hasn't got there properly yet. :? put you in the picture on the amount of pressure when i fitted y oil gauge i broke the sender in the filter housing( two words-cock n head come to mind) anyway fitted a replacement andput filter on and finished job. i didn't put the trhreaded tube in properly and that meant that the filter didnt screw on properly. it was winding the tube out instead of the filter on. at the traffic lights down the road. i set off and at 2500rpm the filter and tube shot out of the front of the car along with 4 litres of oil. the filter was on but 2 full turns and stripped the thread straight off the bar that was about 70psi(3-5 mins runtime). :cry: imagine what seals go htru everytime we drive when not up to temperature. cant be good for them.

cyharger line is 0.4 bar. it aint that one usually its the 2 bar one. the charger line one makes the light go out at tickover. LowG-I would least expect the light when cold as the oil is at its thickest and pressure its highest. I had mine fitted by the dealer bout 110. not the cheapest but if it failed then they could sort the engine :)

2100 oil must be at 2 bar or buzzer n light will be there. if you foot down at this point( i know it sounds bad) and the buzzer goes offas you rise up the range then its probly the 2 bar sensor. 2100rpm is the telling point. I ve had both sensor and oil pump fail on me. they both do similar things. the oil pump problem kepth the light on though aftger the first couple of times. Get a capillary gaugen c what pressure you get. i used a £17 TIM guage cos it was cheap. replace the swithc too(2 bar is in top of oil filter housing.) i presume we ALL use VAG filter and proper oil anyway you should get about 35psi at 2100rpm when warm. When its cold lots bout 60-80 psi give an idea of what the oil seals have to handle when cold

what chartacteristics does it have. When does the buzzer come on? RPM? Does it stay on? What mechanical pressure are you getting?

ill have one too cheers. as i stated in another post im gonna meet a vortexer next week who has a mk2 G60 with SNs and 30#. see how that goes cos i hope to do very similar. ill let you all know as mine is still std more or less. see if they are as good as i expect.

sorry hermitage Green. near warrington. I not a member either nor is the guy im meeting. he has a Golf G60 which should be doing good horses. gonna have a look at the outlet properly too to see if i need one for my front mount

musn't be the risk over there. they may be a tad tougher than in trhe UK. Garda not the most friendly people i recall. im settling for £780 im 26 3yrs NCB but live in oldham so i get stung

not into havin a good chomp 8) . i took on a vr n know what theyre capable of, not a lot in it, though never another G60, not enough of um up here. Scott-do you go to the club gti meet at hertitage green. gonna go to the one on monday. not been before. gonna meet a vortexer who runs SNs with 30#

maybe when mines tuned ill have another view. lets hope so :) not talkin std sub though so tis doin bout 300 wheels with more to come. more and more tuned ones about too. hope my G60 will be as quick as yours Jet. id be :D

took on a 4motion in the g60. it made no impression. against same car in my mates scooby-destroyed him. just kept pullin away. we times this car at bout 4 secs. problem is the gearbox is a tad weak on subs so it takes balls to try a off-the line in case a diff drops but once moving i dont think a vw if any(maybe a super rallye) especially not a c would have a chance trans penine round the twisties. gotta remember that most races rn't in a straight line, or not where i come from. not that the c handles bad its just i get the feeling that when the power arrives to put up a serious challenge it may be no good thru the front. i feel understeer building when i apply power already. best to be the underdog though init-nothing to lose

the bolts on the front shocks (2 on each side) are a killer like you said. like i posted, i cut them off basically. they use stuff to destroy the end of the thread so it wont come off. i cut the bolt bout 5mm from the edge of nut. it then wound off ok.

greatest asset of the scooby is cornering ability. i agree that a turbo'd vr would be a match(maybe if u can get traction) in a straight line but come a corner, n there are lots near us trans penine n you would have no chance. dont knock yourself down though. get third n you, like i do will give a std one more than a fright. the fact that a 2wd, front at that 10yr or so old car can stick it with a 2l turbo class 4wd is good in itself. im not converting to the dark side either. not even tempted and i see these cars on a daily basis

although its nice to slap a scooby dont get too confident. other than std cars you wont have a chance. a couple of my mates own a jap performance tuning place n their imprezas run 350-400hp giving a C no chance. i can stick with a std one to a level in my G60 n it is std really. scooby push a bar n its a differnet story. manchester Cs take on a jap-innovations car at your peril or the figures will soon even up. crap build quality though. is like being in a rocket taxi u r a bus or is it subaru

no car needs a cat by law even post aug 92. the reason a cat is fitted is to pass the more stringent tests after this date, especially in other countries. pre aug 92- 3% is ok to pass just. should be think 1.2-1.5% post 92- oops 4-gas.

bushes-think a ramp comes in handy, maybe a press just depends. fronmt brakes are easy job. dont be suprised if the disc retaining screw snaps. v.v common. just leave it off-the wheel clamps the disc down. push the piston back in with a G clamp. if the pads look good it doesn't mean they are. put pads on for safe measure if you are doing the discs. rear brakes- you Need a tool to wind the piston back into the caliper. basically its on a ratchet and you have to wind it anticlockwise and push back into the caliper for the psiton to be sank back. give um a good clean too as the backs are v v prone to failure through seizing. like it was said before thew rear discs contain the wheel bearings so if you replace rear discs then do the bearings too. no tols other than a big socket and a screw driver to knock and reseat the bearing shells. shocks are ok. you need spring clamps. the top mount is a pain to remove the collar and the bottom bolts that hold it to the hub can be ruined so much that you need to cut them off. bout an hour a corner

gonna be there on the friday at some point. got my form in the post this morning. the cars not lowered..its beer

elephant are best so far bout 110 cheaper than HIC who im with at present. Anyone tried for a R32... sooooooooo much money

hotel is a tad boring. JAE at billing is a good camping one too. believe that edition38 had one there too last yr glasto is no hardship just dont take the C. roll on appeal need to go to worthy again

need to keep the bump strips on at mo as my dad gives um some hammer with his sooty van door when he gets out. waiting for better weather really before i can do any more.

brakes are a little poor. Ive had the car for bout 5 yeras now. was my first car. drove dads big bus about before that. Im trying to sort it but the c takes all my cash. didyou find that it was a lot more sturdy and didnt swallow the same cash as the C. never had a problem with mine other than usual. Got a brand new supersprint in the cupboard at home for it too. If its nice i may have a look at getting it running this weekend. borrow a power press to get rid of the rear end damage.

yep. still got her. she still the fav she was a 1988 scala in saphire a carb model until i bought a storm and did a injection conversion. best move ever. leather is cool too in a sky. car is on eibachs with poly bushes allround and handles like a dream. much more fun than the G60 she got shunted by a citreon AX 2 yrs back and was classed as a write-off. one hard car the sky can take a wack or two. got the parts to get her going again, maybe summer if i can afford but she may never be the same again. a pikey tried to buy her for banger racing of all things. they needed a 1.6 carb for the class they are in. said they are strong as anything which i do believe. far stronger than the C. shes too good for smashing up. only stands me at 80 quid too. gonna get her sorted even if i cannae run her. its just the thieving tw*ts that have tried a few times that put me off

tried before n drawn a blank. not here though demon tweeks do um i believe What make of spacer r u on

i reckon bout 2-3 in. it catches on speedies n slopes like garage entrances on a hill odd exit from places that are slightly elevated. just gotta take it easy havent u. Was gonna swap for a VR splitter for 2 reasons. 1 it aint as deep. 2 its bout quarter of the price i think so if it does fancy a rest when i dont i wont be too out of pocket. Im on a J plate which seems to be a kinda hybrid between new and old spec. ie. new grill, old door handles etc. so i think it may fit quite easy. the q's are down to not being able to lower on my old 7.5s properly. my dads got um now so new ones are needed. thought about getting a 7 but may as well do it properly. anyone know for definate where i can get longer locking wheel bolts as my car sleeps under the stars

was my last message of the day before i went home at 5 so had to make it qiucik or id be waiting for 10 minutes to get out of the car park :oops:

Id be interested. if u have room. Planning on doing both days so if you have a space on one of them... Im camping too. not had my form yet. anyone else got theirs. Not been to inters before.