Mystic Rado

I'm liking the Philips Xtreme wottever they are 90% things. Ime, uprated loom on my Mk2, rally bulbs are freakin' bright with uprated wiring, fuses etc, but you also need to bear in mind that they have significantly reduced life compared to normal bulbs. Something like 100 hours burn time total, so not such a good thing if you do lots of night miles. Not so bad on a Mk2 with accessible headlights, but a potential pain in the backside with a C, where bulbs are far more fiddly to swap.

Hmmm... that'd be me, MysticBlue indeed, pfff... anyway, I stuck a set of bi-thingee HIDs in and couldn't get anything resembling a clean beam pattern with the Corrado, the same set was better in a Mk 2 GTi. I don't think the anti-glare shields in the Corrado headlights help with that. The problem with HIDs is that they all vary slightly, the exact position of the light source within the bulb is crucial and unlikely to match the original halogen bulb, which is what it needs to do. I know some folk on the forum have fitted aftermarket HID kits 'successfully', but I've never seen a clean beam shot of one. Uprated looms and good bulbs, the Philips uprated ones work well, are pretty damn good to be honest. The 'right' way to fit HIDs would be to install a full retrofit with genuine HID projectors - you can buy them at reasonable prices from the US - probably bonded into the original reflectors and with clear glass lenses, not the ribbed standard ones. That - if you were up to it and could find clear lenses, maybe aftermarket ones if you have an early 'rado, harder if you have a later one - would give you close to OE HID lighting, but it would be a proper faff to do. The main problem seems to be finding clear lenses, sanding the ribs off isn't viable, so either you need to make your own using lexan or similar, or find pre-made aftermarket ones, which seems to be a problem for later Corrado headlights. So anyway, for me an uprated loom and good bulbs works pretty well, though I may revisit the idea of proper HID retrofit if I find myself with a lot of spare time and energy.

Brilliant! Please add me to the list. Thanks! [hmmm... I'm a newbie now :-( ]

I kind of lost interest in it - just running uprated high wattage halogens and an uprated loom, which works fine for me. I did a load of digging and the conclusion I came to was that the best solution would be proper, decent OEM quality, bi-xenon projectors retro-fitted into standard Corrado headlight housings - basically you'd need to bond the projectors into the stock reflectors, which looks eminently doable. The problem with that is the standard fluted glass lenses, which aren't designed to work with projectors. The obvious solution would be to fit clear lenses from In-Pro or similar instead of the stock glass or maybe even retrofit the projectors into one of those to start off with - simpler maybe as they use projectors to start with. But as far as I can see, those housings are all early-rado compatible, so aren't going to look right on my car. As far as kits go, the one I had - a hids4u.co.uk one fwiw - was okay in my Mk2 GTi, decent cut-off - but awful in the 'rado, maybe because the shield in the headlight or maybe the one on the bulb needed removing. Might have another go in the spring...

Does anyone know where the supercharger is? I think mine might have been removed before I bought it :?

There's an ST170 version of the Focus estate. I briefly flirted with the idea of one a year or so back. I think it would probably be a good compromise between sensible and smiles, though they're thin on the ground.

I have an irrational soft spot for this - it's a Hungarian, I think, video review of a 'rado. You need the soundtrack on and it always makes me laugh. What does the YouTube formatting button on the reply box do then? [youtube:vitgjsk8] [/youtube:vitgjsk8]

I bought a heated lock defroster gizmo from Betterware the other week, it's very basic - powered by two AA batteries, heated key thing, stick in lock and supposedly defrosts the mechanism. Haven't had to use it yet, but if it works, it's a quick and easy solution to occasional jamming.

Not been around for a while, Corrado's been hibernating gently bar the odd weekend thrash and I've mostly been driving my Mk2, which is really nice. Anyway, I have some Conti winter tyres on steels fitted to the GiT - got them free, which is a long story, but kind of handy given that I live on the edge of the Peak - and I'll report back. I got them mostly because as a mountain biker and mountaineer, I kind of resented being wary of, say, driving to the Lakes last winter because I was worried about the roads being snow covered and getting stuck up there. Anyway... not used them in the snow yet, no real reason to go anywhere, but in cold, wet conditions they're ace. Feel glued to the tarmac, brilliant in the wet, very confidence inspiring. I also like knowing that my pristine BBS alloys are tucked up warm and salt free in a cupboard and as I'm not really a high mileage driver, I should get at least a couple of winter's use out of them. Anyway, coffee to be drunk. Snow to be gawped at. I'll take the Golf out later and let you know how it gets on in the snow. :)

Hmm, that took a while. A few more pics of my Storm plus one of my new-ish Mk2 GTi. Plans? Er, I have some 288mm calipers to go on the 'rado, just need a decent refurb. The Mk2 is getting the TSR Pack-C cylinder head, cam and manifold plus Jetex off my old, dead, Mk2 and probably a 1900cc bottom end. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdfrado03.jpg[/attachment:1gh5e3yu]climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdfrado04.jpg[/attachment:1gh5e3yu]2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdfrado02.jpg[/attachment:1gh5e3yu]gti.jpg[/attachment:1gh5e3yu]

Haha, the great Mk2 can of worms, erm, to be honest, first one, I just fancied a GTi and an 8-valve came up nearby that worked for me, then I got a load of TSR bits for the motor plus manifold, exhaust, chip, and it was properly quick for an 8-valve, probably about the same as a stock 16v car, but with a more flexible feel. And now I've got the engine - 1900cc bottom end to go on I think - I thought I might as well stick with eight valves. I've never driven a 16-valve, but they have a reputation for having to be revved harder to really go, though apparently if you stick a 2.0 bottom end on, that sorts that and it's definitely the faster and easier to tune option, but I've got the engine already and the Corrado for when I want to go quicker. So that didn't help much really. The whole 8v v 16v thing gets discussed a lot on the Club GTi forum, but personally, unless you want to tune the tits off it, in which case I'd go 16v, I'd be more concerned about getting a really sound example of either, if that makes sense. They are just really good fun to drive, sort very balanced and chuckable and bit more raw feeling than a Corrado, particularly if they're tuned and have the suspension sorted. Looks nice and clean in the pics btw, and Estorils really suit Mk2s I think :-)

There's an okay buyers' guide at: http://www.matey-matey.com/golf_buying_guide.shtml In addition to all the above, Mk2s have a rod linkage with about eight billion bushes - when they wear the shift can very sloppy, but it's relatively straightforward and cheap to sort out. Door membranes have a tendency to leak, so check for damp carpet - could be the good old matrix as well. Check the heater works properly, they have matrix bypass valves fitted and they simply stop working (or the heater matrix might have failed). The other classic corrosion spot is on the passenger side where there's a grommet blanking a windscreen wiper hole, lots of them go there. If you can, check underneath. Classic problem is someone having jacked in the wrong place, cracked the underseal and rust getting into seals and floorpan - not good, that's what killed my old Mk2 8-valve. Good luck with it. Decent Mk2s are ace. Just bought another 8-valve as a daily, about to get the TSR motor and bits from my old one, so it should fly. Totally different feel to the Corrado, but lovely.

Exchanged waves with another dark blue Corrado heading the other way on the road between Chinley and Hayfield, first 'rado I've spotted for ages, might have a been another Storm or Midnight Blue, didn't really have time to check - felt a bit like driving past a mirror :)

Dropped the front tyre pressures slightly and drove to sunny Ilkestone and back with the sunroof open and windows down and marvelled at just how bloody together and sorted it felt and how gorgeous the exhaust sounds bouncing back at you from Peak District dry stone walls. And to cap it all I got a chufftie from a delivery driver and a spot on the way home. Ace day all round and all the messing about getting things like wheels bearings changed and new top mounts fitted felt worth the hassle and expense. Just need to get the 288mm brakes refurbed and on now :)

Yep, woke up and missed mine this morning, it's in my local trusty garage's clutches getting new front wheel bearings and a torn CV boot replaced, oh, and new top mounts - due back tomorrow. I have a very nice Mk2 GTi sitting outside, but it's just not the same. Roll on the weekend and dry, grippy roads and dry, loose, dusty mountain biking trails in the Peak :)

Non-padded bike bags are good, I have an old Karrimor one but Ground Effect sell them, stick the filthy bike in it and off you go. Mine's a Storm btw, but I guess I'm used to comparing it to my Mk2 where the seats fold down to give a completely flat boot area. We should have a Corrado mountain biking meet up some time :)

Ordered some Bonrath top caps and OE front wheel bearings for mine. Intrigued to see how much difference it makes to the handling. Going on next week.

Yep, agree. It would be a load easier if the rear seat folded flat instead of sort of half-folding, or am I missing something. I've seen a few 'rados with roof bars and bike carriers fitted, but personally I'd rather keep the bike inside the car.

And yay, it's fixed. And in true Corrado style costing more than it was meant to. It's funny how after a while you just sort of expect it. 'Yeah, it was all going fine until we had to buy part number 48985883738 which turned out to cost £868.65... etc. And then the xyz snapped and we had to replace the engine as a result. Anyway, it'll be nice to have him back and to be able to slow down. And as a bonus, it's an ideal excuse for a road ride from Glossop to Kendal via the Forest of Bowland :) On the plus side, it's reminded me I have a set of 288mm calipers and carriers sitting under the stairs with Goodridge hoses to match, just waiting to be refurbed and fitted.

I'm kind of fascinated by the tyre thing. In a previous existence I used to road test motorcycles for one of the monthly mags and the interesting bit was that track testing showed you just how much harder you could push tyres than any sane person would on the road, before they let go. Basically, you think you're riding hard on the road until you get onto a track and realise that the limits of grip are somewhat further off than you thought. Obviously you have more margin for error in a car - slides are more recoverable, you don't highside if you give it too many beans coming out of a bend, you won't slide down the road and wear through your kecks - but for me anyway, the principles are similar. I drive, erm, 'briskly' on the road but well within the limits of my tyres. Which means, basically, ultimate grip isn't my major priority, I'm more concerned that they feel bombproof confident in normal, mixed conditions and if they do break away, they do it perceptibly. The nightmare tyres on motorcycles tended to be Japanese made variants because although they gripped fine, when they ran out of grip, the transition was often sudden and unannounced whereas European brands tended to give you some advance warning before they let go making them a lot more confidence inspiring. Hopefully things have changed now. Anyway, I guess what I'm saying is that I'm less concerned with the outside edges of the envelope than really confident performance within it. On the Corrado, the car had a nasty mix of Dunlop and Pirelli things when I bought it, replaced with BF Goodrich G-Force Profilers which felt confident all round, but noticeably harsh over small bumps etc - stiff sidewalls? - when the fronts wore out, it got a pair of Conti Premium Contacts, which are great for all-round driving wet and dry and noticably less harsh than the Profilers. Less steering rigidity? Maybe. At the limit perhaps. But I don't drive that hard on the road. I've also run Bridgestone on a Mk3 Golf, which felt fine to me, and Michelin Pilot Exaltos or something, ditto. Got rid and bought another Mk2 which came with 14" steels and Conti Eco Contacts, which were quite horrible and insecure. Replaced with 15" BBS RAs and Goodyear Eagle F1s, GSD3 - German made ones - which are what I've always used on Mk2s and I couldn't believe the difference, so much more confident wet and dry and much better steering feel too. They've always been good for me, though wet grip seems to reduce disproportionately over the last 30% of tread life. Not available in 'rado VR6 size though. Anyway... I'm not sure that meant much to anyone, thinking aloud really...

Cheers for that, I see what you're saying. Looks like being copper/nickel however, given the distance issues and need to get the car back on the road, but the advice is appreciated.

What does the Cohline kit use and how is it better than the copper nickel stuff? I'm a tad wary of using steel again, thought one of the advantages of Cunifer and the like is that it doesn't corrode like steel?

Cheers guys, It could have been quite nasty - I'm trying not to think too hard about what might have happened under slightly different circumstances. I was quoted about 150 quid to sort the whole thing out with new piping, but knowing the way Corrados like to maximise garage time and destruction, I'm gritting my teeth and expecting the worst... :?

Driving up from the Peak to Kendal yesterday for a work meeting, noticed the brake pedal felt a bit soft and brakes a tad weak, took things easy, then coming down into Kendal, the brake warning light came on and things got progressively worse. Limped into destination car park with basically no brakes at all, pedal to the floor. Fluid low. Not good. :( Took it, very carefully, round to local garage - friend's recommendation - and he checked it over and pronounced it 'a death trap'. One of the solid brake lines had corroded to the point where it had broken letting fluid leak out and he reckoned the rest of the steel piping was in a sorry state too. What's really worrying is that the car was MOT'd last July and I can't believe there was no advisory on the brake pipes if they're that poor. How does the dual circuit on the brakes work then? I thought the idea was that only one side of the system would fail as the other side was isolated from it, or have I got that wrong? Anyway... left the 'rado up in Kendal to be sorted out and got the train home, but thought I'd mention it as there's been so much corrosive salt on the roads over the last few months and the solid lines on the 'rado are made from good old rust-happy steel. Great idea that one... There was a silver lining, got a lift to the station in a Triumph TR4, which made me grin despite it all. And silver lining two, I'll probably cycle up on the road to collect the C once it's done. Feeling very lucky that things didn't go horribly wrong.

I bought some Eagle F1s in 195/50R15 for my Mk2 a few weeks back from Camskills. All have 'Made in Germany' on them, so they're definitely still out there, though I guess it would make sense to check before ordering. I didn't actually realise there were far eastern versions.