___Dubstar___

I typed Google into Google and nearly broke the internet.......................................... Thanks for the reply FishWick - are you the sole VR6 contributor!!?? Is the 2 part chains guide the "sticky" or is the wicki Wikipedia? I did wiki vr6 but only saw a pic - am i missing something?

looks like ill be going this one alone then!

http://www.wagenstad.com/index.php?model=cor ive solved the parts/diagram issue with the above - i'm guessing its just the ETKA pages reproduced?

Ok, I’ve spent the last few days searching for info on VR6 rebuilds and there are still a few unanswered questions plus I can only find one other thread started by "lukeyy" on 2nd July 2011. So I’m going to high jack this one (rather than start another thread) to hopefully find some answers and get me back on the road. I’ve read through lots of posts and the very detailed sticky on chains and tensioners. I’ve come up with a short list of what I should or could change. Luckily the thousands of pounds I’ve spent on parts at my VW dealer in the last 14 years is paying dividend as my parts guy has got their “master technician” to write me a list of parts with numbers and prices for bits that may need looking at – its win win for them as I will be spending money with them whatever I do! I would also be grateful for any other pointers - does anyone know if there is an exploded diagram/schematic of the VR6 on here? I'm planning on changing all seals and gaskets - is there a definitive list? Is it worth replacing the oil pump (or at least “oil pump drive gears” – whatever they are?) and water pump etc - is wear easily detectable to these parts and others? I'll be transferring the new tappets, chains and tensioners from my old engine so that’s one cost saving at least. I’ve identified the following torque settings from the chains sticky; “Install the ten (10) bolts that secure the cover to the head and the lower timing chain cover. Torque the eight (8) 5mm hex bolts to 89 in-lbs (10 N-m) and the two (2) 6mm hex bolts to 18 ft-lbs (25 N-m). NOTE: Make sure to tighten the two (2) upper cover-to-lower cover bolts (red arrows in Step 12) before tightening the eight (8) upper cover-to-head bolts or the seal between the upper and lower covers may leak. 52. Remove the upper tensioner bolt from the container of oil, wipe it off and then install it in the rear edge of the upper timing chain cover. Torque to the bolt to 22 ft-lbs (30 N-m). (Note: The MKIV Bentley gives conflicting values for the tensioner bolt torque. In multiple places it lists it as 22 ft-lbs (30 N-m), but in one place it lists it at 30 ft-lbs (40 N-m). I'm not sure which one is actually correct, but either one would probably be OK. I torqued mine to 22 ft-lbs and have not had any problems.) 53. Remove the cam locking tool (or plate(s)) from the grooves in the end of the camshafts. 54. Reinstall spark plugs and torque to 18 ft-lbs (25 N-m). 55. Reinstall valve cover (make sure the valve cover seal fits correctly) and torque the ten (10) captured bolt or nuts to 89 in-lbs (10 N-m). “ As we will be stripping the whole engine what other torque settings are there? And then there’s the valve stem seals/guides – what is their true title, are seals and guides 2 separate things?? Either way they seem to be major culprits for poor running from all the threads ive read (and ive read a lot!!) so I might as well replace them while its all apart and the credit card is smoking. Is this the same as “Classic valve guide wear symptoms.” As Fishwick has referred to it previously? I found this; “If the head has done 140K, chances are the guides may need replacing, so check for valve rock when the head is off. Just putting new seals over worn guides will put you back to square one again after a few hundred miles……..” I hope I don’t come across as a “tell me how to fix my car – I cnat be bothered to work it out” sort of person but I have little or no mechanical knowledge and I’m starting a bit late in life but I will be doing all this myself with the help of a more knowledgeable VW enthusiast. This forum is an amazing resource and I truly appreciate every contribution, I have been a member for some time but as I have had very few problems and such little knowledge I haven’t been able to contribute as I should but hopefully that will all change now. I will be taking lots of pics and making detailed notes. From my trawling of the posts there doesn’t seem to be a definitive VR6 rebuild guide for general servicing and over hauls so maybe this could be the start of something to help people in the future – as has been mentioned before most of the VR’s out there are getting on in the mileage stakes and this will affect all of them at some stage no doubt. Sermon over………

Many thanks "floppyman" for the input - much appreciated, and to "FishWick" my sincerest apologies - this was the only VR6 rebuild thread that appeared on my search - it led me to the chain thread and no more. My mistake, im sure when I find all the other VR6 threads they will answer all my questions. Please disregard my previous comments. I can appreciate how much of an inconvenience duplicate threads must be (one of the main reasons I didnt start my own) as well as how much of a premium space must be on this forum. Thank you for taking the time to point out the error of my ways (smiley face)

Much like Mr Parker above, except I am replacing my shattered lump with a replacement one I would like some guidance on which bits to replace/improve/inspect while its all out of the car. The engine that has been destroyed had only just had the chains and tensioners replaced 200 miles before an over tightened screw on my Schrick VSR manifold sheared and shot into the manifold and then the engine whilst cruising at "just about 70 mph, officer" - you can imagine the rest. So now i have a knackered "future proofed" engine that was mint with new chains and tensioners as well as a soon to be mine 100k mile well looked after lump (supposedly) to replace it. I have read the amazing replacement chain thread and will probably salvage the nearly new set from the old engine to put in the new replacement one but what other jobs do you recommend doing whilst the whole thing is out of the car?? - Obviously it will get a full service and clean, do i skim the head etc etc etc Any low cost improvements would be welcome - it’s taken 2 years to muster the courage to get back to fixing the car after that horrific day! I don’t need another £2000 bill to put right the original "improvements" I need the VR6 back in my life! Thanks Ian

lots of information, thanks for that, unfortunately it just leaves me with more questions. in the short term i think i will just buy an old 2.9 VR6 lump and drop it in and run it for now whilst i build a bit of a frankenstein out of the old lump. It had just had the chains and tensioners done when it went bang and was a mint 120k full VWSH one owner from new motor so want to re use as much of the original bits as possible. Alternatively could i just drop in a AAA 2.8 and connect it all up, swap the ECU'S and would that work? Whats this OBD2 stuff? For the rebuild of my old engine could I acquire a AAA 2.8 bottom end/block and use standard 81mm pistons. Put my reskimmed ABV head (been told I will probably need a few valves reseated as well – what the hell does that mean? How is it done? And is it expensive?) on with a R32 crank? Put all the ancillary parts back on, schrick manifold? 268 cams? Do I use my old 2.9 mapped ABV ECU? and “drop” it back in …………… would that work or would it just go bang in a more spectacular way than the last one?? and whats the most effective way of running the engine cooler to stop wear? I have read the definitive VR6 cooling guide but it didnt see it mention fitting an oil cooler? Bigger/uprated fans? De clutter the engine bay? thanks again

Thanks tandino (michael?) Mine is ABV, were all 2.9's? which models were AAA and how are they stronger? Would you reccomend boring them out? thanks Ian

Hi, my searches have brought up alot of interesting information but couldnt find a definitive answer. Is the 100cc difference between the golf 2.8 and Corrado 2.9 achieved through stroke or bore? I have destroyed my 2.9 block and need to find an economic replacement. As the 2.9's seem to be rarer this appears to drive up the price. Could I simply bore out a 2.8 or plonk my crank into a new head? answers on a postcard please. thanks Ian

oh no more options!! a 24v? have seen the threads but looks a bit involved and expensive? the 2.8 route bored out sounds like a good route as there are tons about> And yes the last pic shows the broken shaft, it was just the dark (burnt!) looking end that did the rounds plus an identical screw to the one you see there but i havent found that yet!! please keep ideas/suggestions comming. thanks again Ian

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Hi this relates to my broken VR6 thread but it is a seperate specefic question. Does anyone know what I have broken, the dark part of the broken shaft was fished out of my block and thats why it is different in colour and condition to the other section and screw! Can i buy the part seperately and from who? What are these manifolds worth (working) these days?? cheers Ian

Thanks for the reponses guys, i will certainly look into both options.

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Black Dub, got these from Nigel @ Carrera custom design house. They do have web ordering and mail ordering facilities. www.carreracdh.co.uk 01284 388 522 - just tell them Ian gave you their number via the corrado forum and he should do you a deal.

Thanks for the comments, i havent had the car fully resprayed just the rear end where all the smoothing has gone on. I was thinking while i was polishing that it needs a full respray - your right it does go patchy and pinky in places. With regards to the wheels i love them, not because i think they look good but because its like driving on marmite, people either love them or hate them - fairly mixed reaction so far probably 60/40 split against, which makes it even better!

Bally, yes they did the mk3 colour concept from pvw. this was both cars on the way to gti last year - when the rims were black I got the aero blade from stealth for about £15 - just clips straight onto the factory arm, works realy well too - after some persuading!

here here

All original paintwork im afraid, just a mop ans a polish!! works wonders i hate to admit it but the wing mirrors are a direct fit but i had them smoothed to loose the factory shape

thanks once again, i nearly put tt comps on it but i have so many wheels and tyres i have to stick with what i got but i think your right anthracite TT's slammed on the deck would look fresh. Speakin of fresh check out my MK1 rims i think the power steering bottle is £95.00 washer bottle £175 header tankt £165.00 round style header tank (not shown) £135 all prices include V.A.T

thanks for the comments, the old d90's have been done to death a bit IMO and im too tight to sell them so red was the only option - its going to be a marmite mod so im ready to take some stick. and i dont know if anyone noticed but i had the lines all smoothed out of the mirrors so they look more porky now! peanut, the bottles were custom made for me by Nigel @ carrera design house and he has now taken dies (?) of them so he can reproduce them for other rado owners - he also custom fabs bits for most golfs etc. The bottles are featured in this months PVW and their office number is 01284 388522

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