sim0n_parker

right then, fiddling about on sat and i noticed this elec box thing with a clear see through type of compartment lid thing, i flipd it up to find inside was a fuseable link that was blown. ... i have owned he car roughly about 3-4months now and havnt noticed anything not working etc. the box is located on a bracket that comes off the expansion tank, it is black and like i said has a small compartment to one side of it that is clear that flips up. its got vag numbers 919 506B stampd on it as well as various others but wen i enterd in to etka it didnt bring anything up. can any1 shed some light? like i say everything seems to be working as it should. the car is a K reg G60, abs works etc. didnt want to put a fuse in it incase it turnd some weird "underground neons" on or something lol chears simon

mines ok, just sometimes it feals abit stiff going into first, like if im sitting at the lights go to put it in first to pull of and ill have to give it more force then i usally do to get it in, but othertimes its not a problem, simon

hmmm 10mm nuts under the ash tray... the little guide in the wiki didnt mention anything about these... will have a look for these when i do it next, i didnt undo the 2 pipes as the heater box was rock solid and wudnt budge, im going to devote myself a whole day next time to do this, and do a big proper write up with pics to help people out. simon thanks guys

i have found a bolt/screw srt back in between the fog and indicater in the top corner? is this he one to remove the lighs or like an adjusting screw to aim te beam of the fog light? if i get a pic will this help identfy~? i need to know what one i have as i want to get a wing as its going in the ody shop pretty soon. chears simon

i found two in the center of the bulkhead one at the top just behind the inlet manifold and one further down towards the exhaust the other one i found was down behind my abs pump. i undone the plastic nut thingy inside tat holds the fan, the fan side of the heater box is all lose and feals like it wants to come out but for some reason the rivers side (right hand drive car i got) seams to be stuck and wont budge what so ever. i decided to put it back for the time being as i have the bently manual coming so will crak on with it then.

so where would you dremel then? the in let manifold and head?

...... sorry but i think you may have more help on the ibiza owners club as this is the corrados owner clubs and we dont have these problems. simon

im follwoing the wiki guide to change my heater matrix, the guide is spot on! not to mention be spot on about the glove box being abit of a bugger to remove, and volkswagon dont arf like using alot of bolts to hold things in like the center console etc. anyway ive got to the point where you unbolt the 3 heater matrix bolts and the plastic thing for the fan in the engine bay.....i cant find them? am i being a fool? i spent 5minutes trying to find them but cant so i thought i put a post up here see who can help whilst i go to the pub and crack on with it tomorrow morning. ive found it fairly easy upto this point and i would reccomend people to do it themselves insted of sending it to a garage to be done. help much appreciated. and if you can think of any problems youve had after the stage im at i would appreciate it. simon

the onyl way around it is to send the brain of to toad to get them to find the code out, they will then send it back to you with the code.

aqua mist is a good option, but alot of people refuse to map a engine with this included (they will map but just not using aquamist) this is beacuase if they map it with the aquamist, if you run out of water there is quite a high risk that you could do engine damage. flusted how did u make urs? would you mind sharing?

i bought one today from GSF 31quid aparentely ts OE as he says there was a cheaper one for 15quid, but i thought id get the expensive one to be on the safe side, mine isnt leaking (as far as i know anyway) but my fan diverter that diverts the air from face to screen etc isnt working as well as it could so i thought sod it as there isnt any recipts for a new matrix in my history folder ill do this whilst im there, ill let you know how i get on, give it ago yourself i find it rewading when youve finished the job and it works and having no screws/bolts left over is a bonus!!!!! :D simon

but to run twin pipes dont you need to take of the boost return? so what people are saying is.... that if you redo all the standerd boost hoses with polished and silicone hoses and keep the bends to a minimum and away from as much heat as possible this will help boost flow? am i correct in saying that? but if you redo the boost pipes dont you need to get one to house (is it the Co??) pot thing? chears simon

like said above, i done excatly the same got a stanely and cut all the perished rubber away so i was just left with the plastic part, run an airline down the crack to blow all the particles out wash and clean it to get rid of the moldy milgew stuff and i think it looks better without simon

where will the screws be located? on the front of the indicaters? or behind? also if its not screwd in then how do the later fog lights pop out.?

right then, soon as ive gatherd a few bits up its a trip down to my mates body shop to get them sprayed up and fitted, but first i need to know is the front and rear bumpers diffrent on early / late models? can hey be interchanged? also the front wings are they diffrent? my car is a K reg (1992) G60, but it has the early interior but has got the bonnet that goes __----__ it has got ABS if that helps? im abit stuck on what mine is. many thanks simon

as my 60 has done a few miles was thinking of just getting some conrod shells and oil pump to just give it a little service, where is the best place to get them from? stealers want 107 quid for oil pump and 98 for the shells. euro car parts list them as 25quid is this per conrod? or for the full set. also is it worth fitting a mocal oil cooler? notice my oil temp goes to the 100ish mark simon

ive decided to rebuild my charger my self, can anyone put me in touch with some where that can supply me with a GOOD DESCENT rebuild kit, i dont want no cheap 99p oil seals etc. simon

the engine codes are diffrent rallye is 1h? and corrado is PB. can the block and head be used as normal and use all existing manifolds charger etc? as i can get hold of a rallye one to rebuild for fun ;) simon

my alarm bloke hates clifford he thinks they are way over priced, and will only fit toads. thats why on my last cars ive always had toads, u can buy the alarm for about 100quid on ebay and it has got a huuuuuuuggeee spec list on it total closure, interior light delay u can get it to operate booot and door poppers for de handled cars etc, and he used to charge me 100quid to fit as he is a close mate of mine, but people advertise the alarm fitd for about 250ish, in my opinioni think its still one of the top alarms avalible now, but the only down side is it dont support turbo timer becuase once its armd it doesnt delay the circuit and detects the current drain and charge from the engine/alternator and it thinks the cars being nickd and ses the alarm of.

on my last cars, ive had toad Ai606 alarm fittd with dual zone proximity, a good alarm in my eyes, does everything you need, and can be suppld and fittd for about 200-250ish depending on where u go. the only thing it doesnt support is turbo timer function, thats why im not getting it this time on my g60, so the other option is clifford, i was quoted £505 to supply and fit a G5 i think it was with intellistart (remote start and turbo timer) with internal sensors and a choice of one other sensore (tilt and motion, dualzone microwave, glass break etc) but with the intellistart you dont get a certificate unless you get it fitted after the alarm as for insurence purposes it voids the cat1 due to the engine being running without you in the car. (unless you know the fitter ;)) hope that helps mate.

chears dude! sorted, its fitted and working!! ive measured the voltage before and after: before: dip beam 8.9volts main beam 10.2volts after: dip deam 10.4 volts main beam 11.98volts :D defo defo defo worth it! spot on! absolutly wicked! the kit i bought was 30quid this one done both dip and main beam, came with a fuse box holder and all relays and all cables, cables where insulted with some sort of corrigated tubing that had a crimp thing on each end to seal the wires to stop water going down the tube, he bloke also even labld all the wires. it arrived all ready assembld and all i ad to do was locate what wires to cut and join, defo worth 30quid as i reckon i could of made it for 15uid, spent an hour or so fiddling about cuting and crimping wires and making it up, i thought it was easier buying the kit. simon

ive just bought one mate, i got the oter one where it does dip and main beam! best to get that one really as i made one my self for my golf cabriolet and the main beam was awsome!! lit the country roads wickd, with a good set of uprated headlamp bulbs, but the thing im stuck on is, it says that i have to remove the dim dip function, any1 know? my old golf didnt have this. simon

power to the amp from the battery, earth the amp out, and there is a remote wire (blue) that goes from the headunit to the amp so tell the amp to turn on to stop it draining your battery when headunit isnt on, make sure the rcas are connected, if the following owner just yankd the rca's out then they may be damaged (this happend to me) they are very delicate to being stretched etc so if you have a set lieing around that you know work, then try them. also have you got the gain etc turnd up on the amp? some headunits have more then 1 pre out (rca connections) make sure you have the rca's connected in the correct pre out. what headunit you running as i know pioneers have a setting on them where you have to go in and turn the subwoofer mode on, simon

come on.. someone has to know this. simon

basicly mine runs rich i think, a nd all the wires are connected, but i wanted to make sure that they are connected in the correct sequence, i will try and get out side late and note what colours go where, but i might have to leave it till i go back work as i an see them better from under neith on a ramp. simon