Simon69

Laughing... Yea, ED38 (waste of time unless you want to stretch your rubber & slam ur ride, dude...) Club GTi (seems slightly "overrun" by a certain "personality"..) And here on the C forum (which is actually ok!) I've decided not to sell it as don't see the point if people only think it's worth £1500, I may as well keep it, either leave it in the C (and give the C to the misses) or build a MK1 "toy" and stick it in that. Hope I haven't pi55ed anyone off as that was not the intention. Cheers Simon

At the mo I'm thinking £3500 for the complete car (inc tranny), I'll think about it over the weekend and if that's what I decide I'll put it in the for sale section (and flea bay)... Cheers Simon

Yea it currently resides in my 94 Corrado VR6. Cars pretty good, steadily replacing rubbers, dampers, brake lines etc etc but the shell is straight and rust free, interior is just about perfect... Hmmm need to stop now or I'll want to keep it again!! :grin:

Kev spoke to Vince, you can get all the bits apart from the gears, so if you stripped teeth or broke a gear your into getting new ones machined. There is a couple of places in Coventry that do this also I know a good place in Italy too, there would be a cost but cheaper than a new box and saves scrapping the whole box for the sake of a gear. Was trying to remember the ratio's last night, 1st is about stock, 6th is about 25mph per 1000rpm and the rest are nice and close in between lol... It basically gets rid of that horrible gap between 2nd and 3rd plus it closes up all the rest a bit too, it's kind of nice. Can't really say enough about the diff, anyone who does not have one cannot possibly realise how much of a difference they make and that's just with stock VR power, once you start tuning it they become essential in my opinion, I have no idea how some of these people with 1.8T's and forced induction VR's manage, their cars must have crap dynamics... Maybe just put the whole car up for sale, £3k the lot then they can either have a very expensive VR with a free gearbox OR a very expensive gearbox and a free car LOL... Hey ho, cheers for now Simon

Yea same guy, I used to work for Prodrive, I did some of the performance packs they sell through Subaru UK (for my sins lol...) among other things, hence the bit of turbo experience. You should have my return PM, have a chat with Vince, I would say if your just using it on the road (i.e. no slicks at santa pod) then you should be ok. I too have never heard of a Gemini breakage but the septic's seem to have broken a few Quaife boxes and they can't be that much difference, however, (most) of em can't shift / launch to save their lives so it's not surprising... (Que flames from the septic's teehee...) Stock VR ratio's are not bad once you shorten the final drive, makes 1st and 2nd a bit low though, FW torque can get a bit crazy especially with forced induction, you already have a Quiafe though? Cheers Simon

Hey Kev, It's got helical gears & syncro's, can't remember the exact ratio's. 1st is high, 6th is about 25mph per 1000rpm, 2nd, 3rd, 4th & 5th are nice and close. It was originally done for a 16vT for track / road use but it transformed the stock VR6 C and I'm really not sure about selling... But i'm thinking of going back to WRX's so there is no point in having a £3k VW transmission cluttering up the place! Torque, hmmmm... As you know the Gemini boxes were originally designed as race and rally boxes so you'd hypothesise something in the region of 350-400ft/lbs but its helical not straight cut so that means less, then on the other hand it's FWD so too much torque (without slicks) will just spin up the wheels (protecting the box). Personally I'd say it's perfect for a FWD chassis, I'm toying with putting together a MK1 16v screamer on TB's and using it in that.... Or selling it lol... And yea, there are "similar" ones about but as you know, it's not the look it's the quality of the metallurgy that counts ;) I could be wrong but I think the Gemini stuff is pretty damn good. Cheers Simon

I think I'd struggle getting anything for them on flea bay too.... ;)

Not sure I can re-sell those on Flea-Bay... ;)

Hi all, I currently have the aforementioned Gemini / Quaife combo in the front of my VR6. It was purchased from Stealth several years ago to use in a 16v MK1 and Vince re-built it into a VR6 casing about 6 months ago. Vince would be able to "vouch" for it's provenance The reason for posting is that I am considering selling it but I have absolutely no idea of what it's value would be Can anyone help? Cheers Simon btw, if this should be in for sale or something I apologise but it's not actually for sale (yet)

Well good news on the wheels (from a parts lasting longer point of view lol) Pretty damn tight? ;) well I can't remember the torque value off the top of my head but it's high! The SCCA guys in the US over tighten them to help stop bearing failure too, so I usualy torque em them give em an extra swing... We are talking two foot long torque wrench here I would say x2 removals of the CV with a bl**dy great hammer will have "seen off" the bearing for good! I seem to recall mentioning at the time that it would be best to change the lot, expensive, but best. You can't really smack roundy roundy parts about like that an then expect them to last for long. On a side note, I've just pushed both out on my VR (I'm putting my Gemini in and thought I'd pull em and re-pack the grease on the bench) both sides had lock-tight in em, but a quick smack with the dead blow was enough to shock em free. Has anyone else found lock-tight in there? I know it's more £££ but I'd change the hub as well as the bearing, it's likely that they are original but more because of the way the CV's seem to jam in it, seems like the hub may have some issues too you know... Cheers

Hi mate, Your not having much luck are you!!! ;) Sorry don't mean to take the P. The drone sounds to me like bearing, when you got the new ones did you change the hub too (bit with bolt holes in that goes round)? Did you see them do the job? It's possible they buggered the seal or otherwise damaged the unit as it was fitted. When the car is jacked up (i.e. wheel free of the ground) is there any play? You should be able to grab the wheel at 12 / 6 and at 9 / 3 and NOT feel any play in the bearing (like the MOT testers do basically) Also check all the others too, just to be on the safe side. Umm last thing, when you fitted the outer CV, did you torque the hub nut properly? They need doing up F'ing tight and (among other things) they keep the bearing & hub "together" in the up-right, so if it's loose (or not tight enough) you can get bearing and / or hub failure or premature wear. Lastly, not being funny but you have umm well lol lets say non std size and ET wheels, this will also bring about premature and / or excessive wear, of course I know there's like a million (ok a few) people also running similar who may or may not have any problems...

LOL @ Kev, naa Dave's back, it's a m

Hi there, Could I meet up with you one day (at your convenience of course) to run a test on my ABS? The light is on all the time, I suspect a rear hall sender but would prefer to check rather than just ordering it... It's a 94/95 VR6 with the 2x2 Cheers Simon

As you say, once the "building blocks" are in place you can just "play" until you hit your own personal "sweet spot". I have the 0.6 and the 0.8 exhaust housings, got them both when I ordered the main unit, used to swap the bu**ers back and forth on my scooby lol I blew one of my 2lt's to bits with the 0.8 unit. I had the fuel an ign working nice so just kept adding boost a bit at a time ;) got it running 3.41bar MAP and was doing a 5th gear run (6 speed box) when number 3 rod bent and that broke the piston! Trouble was, the motor was turning 7800rpm at the time so it made a bit of a mess LOL... made me jump too! I think with turbo's you kind of have to have a power figure in mind when you start then you can kind of "match" your components up a bit. Otherwise you get what I'd call the "yank mentality" were they all want 2 million wheel hp so they fit a turbo the size of a dustbin lid that's designed for a 7lt circle track car... Certainly (I would say) for a daily (front) driver 300hp / 300ft.lbs is more than enough for 80% of situations but it's nice to be able to crank the boost in the higher gears for when you just HAVE to hit 160+ ;) As you say, most of the time it's about fast spool and a flat torque curve Have to agree with you on the little Rover, have driven a few (mainly in the back of Elise's) and they really like to sing, have you tried an S2000? No bl**dy torque but bu**er me they like to rev :) Took one up the freeway with a supercharger on and it was pretty damn good, would love to try a turbo one. I would try moving your MAP sensor closer, also make the pipe ID smaller, I would say 6 - 7mm is too big, 2 - 3mm is plenty. We tried those BMC's but found they gave too much inlet depression, have you tried a manometer just in front of the turbo entrance to measure it? That could be why yours feels "flat" when you put a duct onto the front. Totally agree about most grunt for minimum boost, get the efficiency up and your putting less heat into the intake and just running everything so much sweeter. You make a good point about the VR weight, I too have had 16v T (in a Scirocco) and I had to put a fair amount of work into getting it to "hook-up" I was working for Spax at the time though and it was kind of fun "picking" all the technical brains, I got a lot out of it anyway lol I am fortunate in that I have a Gemini 6MT with Quaife and I concur with your comments about "learning to drive it" again! Have you considered going to Haldex?

K-Jet fuel pump is very good and will support BIG hp numbers when used in a conventional FI system (i.e. not K-Jet type) If your trying to do it "on the cheap" I'd go for a spacer metal gasket and leave the rods / pistons alone (at least until you blow it for the first time lol). Scirocco manifolds cost a bloody fortune, just use the stock one (at least until you can afford a proper short runner "log"). G60 loom, management and sensors (unless your happy with your ability to MegaSquirt) Custom down-pipe Sprinter Van (or similar) Intercooler off eBay, plumb it in with some exhaust tubing and a few bends (again, off eBay) Oh yea, you'll need a few quid, you'd be surprised how cheap it's possible to do it though!

You make it sound like wee buns....... if only :lol: ;) well it is not that bad really, once you have the pile of bits it's just nuts and bolts like mechano... I've done 4 so it can be that hard if I can do it!

I'd say you'd be better just turbo'ing your KR, rather than doing a swap and then turbo'ing the G60 motor...? You'd need manifold, turbo and exhaust. Intercooler, inlet mods and a fuel rail, then an ECU, do a search on the MegaSquirt forums and you'll see a fair selection of people have turbo'd / MegaSquirted the KR with good results. Others prefer to use a modified G60 ECU and the G60 loom, either way it will all retrofit (or can be retrofitted) to you KR. Then just use a thicker centre section in a metal head gasket to bring the comp down a touch

I would imagine your 3071 must spool very early on a big old VR, nearly 3lt is plenty of exhaust putt's to spin its little wheel up! I have the 3076R duel ball bearing with the anti surge housing, I've used it on 2lt and 2.5lt scooby engines, it is a good turbo, the anti surge housing upsets MAF sensors though ;) too much reversion! I would not be able to say yes / no to how much "better" the other housing would be, I've never "back to back" tested them on the same engine / set-up. Interesting comments on the TPS / MAP, I would certainly try moving the sensor closer (beware too hot of course) but much more than that, I'd reduce the hose ID down to 2 or 3mm. My experience to date suggests that anything you can do to get sensors closer to what they are sensing is good for increased control. Not sure about your throttle, it certainly could have an effect, I guess you've not tried bolting a stock one on? You have to use the air temp comp map, crazy not to, espesh with a damn great heater (turbo) plumbed into the inlet system. I really don't understand these people that don't use any air temp comp, usually the same people the put an open air filer in the engine bay behind the water rad "because it's better for performance man..." idiots! I have a feeling the last time I was up at Vince's your car was there being re-done having lunched the JE's, I remember having a natter about the Wossner's at the time, they looked pretty good. It would be interesting to try giving them some det and see how they respond (of course I'm not saying you should try this lol...), I've tried "tight" forged pistons before (Ross Racing) and they were exceptional (I det'd the hell out of them and they were fine). For what it's worth I don't personaly like JE's very much, every car I've had the misfortune to have to work on or calibrate with JE's always turned up with problems, not always the pistons causing the problems but trying to calibrate it with them rattling away is no fun You speak my language Mr Cheesewire, I too like smooth controlled power coupled with good chassis balance to go blasting down the B roads ;) At present I'm trying to decide between getting a manifold and bolting it (the 3076) onto my VR or pulling the V6 and using a 2lt 16v (still with the 3076 of course) as I really like the idea of loosing 50+kg's from the front... Do you have an LSD and or 6 speed fitted?

That article pretty much "hits the spot" with it's explanation, as you say, one each end. As you clearly know, it's not so much the KR breathers design but it's size! It's just a really nice big breather with a pretty effective air / oil separator built in, I think (and to be honest I'd need to check to be 100%) that VW used the KR block in the single seaters they built for one of the German race series. Of course none of this is any good unless it's plumbed into a pot and allowed to breath lol... It would be interesting to plumb up the manometer to a KR with that Beatle oil cap breather fitted, just to see how effective it is! Cheers Simon

I think your right, the KR could still use a rocker breather though, last one I did (which is some time ago now!) I had the rocker milled for two 3/4 take-off's into a breather pot, never had any oil seal issues with that engine (in spite of a considerable quantity of N2O ran through it) Cheers Simon

Crawling is traffic is the hardest bit to calibrate (map) so you should feel pleased with yourself for that! Yea, forged pistons can sound like det lol... As you say, something of a "leap" but I do think it you fix the copper pipe to the block you should be able to differentiate, certainly you can on a scooby (with forged pistons so loose the damn thing sounded like a 50 year old tractor...) One of the things you can do with the IAT (in the manifold) apart from using a proper fast acting thermister of course, is to insulate the thing. Most of the race builders use a heat insulating plug so help with the heat soak. i.e. drill an tap the manifold for the IAT but do it like M20+, then have a phenolic "plug" turned up with a M20+ external thread to go in the manifold. Then drill / tap the phenolic for your thermistor, viola vastly reduced heat soak, most of the WRC teams do it this way and they are up around 4bar MAP At 56 (I guess in 5th (6th?)) your pretty low down the rev range, how is the DTA measuring things at that rpm, TPS or MAP? (or a combination of both?) If MAP how long (and what ID) is the pipe, a long pipe can cause something similar on scoob's. Are you using the 100mm entry turbo with the anti surge cut-outs?

Well yes, the GTD sump does have a return but we're talking about a return here, it's hardly a big deal to plumb one in. Find a local store that does hydraulic service, they will be able to supply you the bits to do it, they will prob be able to order in Goodridge and / or Earls too should you feel the need for "name brand" pipe lol... There will be differing opinion on were to plumb in, I am an "as high as possible return" advocate (even into the side of the block), others will say it's ok to go low i.e. under the oil level I am actively considering removing the 2.9 and fitting 4 pot 16v as I'm something of a weight freak and certainly while it's 2wd a turbo 16v provides more than enough torque / power... Time will tell lol!

Right, I thought that's what you meant, that all makes sense, a "starter for 10" anyway, I'll do some investigation! I have some 4 pot alcon calipers to fit (disc size TBD) but I would rather get the FEEL right with the stock set-up before I go that route. If I can I would also like to stay with 15" wheels and I'm going to have "fun" getting the alcon's under them ;) The other thing about the alcons, they really would prefer a bigger MC, circa 24mm so it would pay me to "sort" the leverage out first. I too hate most modern cars brakes, as you say, sharp bite then simply nothing! I tend to do brake testing in Milton Keynes, I've yet to find a car with stock brakes that can do the length of the H3, On the P1's we fitted the Alcon 330mm 4 pot kit and that would do it but only if you fitted DS3000 pads lol and that meant cleaning the wheels and side of the car after every trip otherwise it would all go orange from the metal bits going rusty... g60bv - Yea, I know I have abs mate, and it works fine, I'm talking about pedal movement and pedal feel rather than the retardation

Slightly off topic, sorry When your say the pivot is too far up, are you saying the pedal mount pivot or the MC actuator rod pivot? I detest the the feel of the brakes on my (95) VR in spite of braided hose, new fluid and mutiple bleedings they still feel shite, don't get me wrong, they stop the car (after a fashion) but they FEEL shite! My MK2 has 8v front 16v rear's with a 22mm MC (no ABS) and they just feel soo nice compared to the damn VR's. Nice hard pedal that does not move very much but still with enough feel to hold it on the edge of lock-up. I have no issues with fabbing new parts so I'd like to hear your take on it Cheers Simon

Well 20hz is nice if it all goes boom ;) you should be able to diagnose what went wrong... That explains the difference between the afr log and the afr table, I would do a little work on getting them closer together, it makes life easier if you can glance at a table and know that's more or less what the mill will see I would have a chat with someone who knows the engine before going nuts with the ign, just because I think it's wrong is not enough as I lack that kind of knowledge on these engines (I'm mainly VW 16v and Subaru) I would also get / make some det cans, it's pretty accepted in the industry that there is no real alternative to the human ear for picking up the tell tale "rattle" of det. Get yourself an old stethascope (sp?) a length of pipe and a piece of copper pipe. Flatten the end of the copper pipe and bolt it to the engine (block is best) force one end of the pipe onto the copper pipe and connect the other end to your stethascope (sp?)... And there you go, instant det cans for peanuts and they really do work just as well as anything else, just be a bit careful the first time you use them that your ready for the noise level lol... As for the temp stuff, as you say, it sounds like you need a decent thermistor IAT (inlet air temp) sensor in the Manifold as it looks like the current one is heat soaking, I would suggest (logging) another IAT in the intake pipe before the air filter, this gives a nice indication of how well (or not...) the intercooling is working, heat soak, etc etc As for tuning, I would imagine you already know this but just for info this is how I did most of the road tuning on the scoob's. First select a nice location, it should be reasonably safe, wide, straight, preferably not past the local school ;) then select a gear that your happy to "rev through" I use 4th because it takes longer and you get a better "picture" of things but 3rd would work if your concerned about the speed issue lol... Connect everything up, put your det cans on then roll along at about 2500rpm in the gear your happy with, then floor it, just like a dyno run, keep it nailed till you hit the limiter then change up and let it slow down. Park up and check your log files. Try not to make too many changes at once, I would suggest maybe raising the whole ign map by one deg, save it to the ecu and do another run, pay close attention to the det cans, if it starts pinging abort the run and reduce ign in the area that was causing the trouble, if it's fine, park up, check the logs, add some more ign and go again, and again, and again lol repeat until the gas tank is quarter full or you get arrested... Or you could just pay an expert like Vince to do it on his rollers! Cheers Simon