C. Will Corrado G60 2

kevhaywire, Never been in VR6 but read a little about them. I've hear the Vortech Supercharger can be good for nearing 300Bhp but I only read it some where. How much ££££ would it take to get the VR6 to 300Bhp? :D :D

Scott, Not really thought about like that. I do like the noise and instant power from the G60 but you do have to drive it like nutter to keep the boost high! But on the other hand the VR6 lower down noise and amount torque are very nice indeed.

Hi, Here's one for the G60 & VR6 crews to comment about. I have a tuned G60 which has been my pride & joy for 3 years now and she's nearly complete. ====== Engine: Rallye G60 block Stage 4 charger (Just been rebuilt by JD) Gas flowwed head Hight lift cam Customer front mount intercooler & pipping Customer exshaust SNS chip Induction kit with heat shield Chassis: Koni Coilovers All bushes replaced Uprated drilled brakes Rolled arched Alloys Exterior: Side moulding removed and both sides resprayed In-pro rear lights Interior: Full Black Leather Boost & Air/Fuel Gauges in A-pillar pod #### Not sure of the BHP figure yet but should be around 220 - 240 ####### ===== My dilemma is a friend of mine is selling a standard VR6 at a good price (£3,000.00) I've always liked the way a VR6 can be tuned to 300BHP with a simple supercharger bolt on. The engine has done 112,000 and has been looked after having had all it's services etc. The only damage is some twat reversed into a front wing so it would need replacing. The question is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Do I stay with my tuned G60 or jump ship and start again with a VR6? What would you do? Is a VR6 all what it's suppose to be? Is the G60 a car I'd be sad to leave? Anyway please help me out with my dilemma. Cheers

Hi, Totally forgot I posted this..... Anyway thanks for all the info looks like http://www.fancyplates.com is the way to go. Cheers

Hi, I've been wanting to update my front end a little and have seen a few C's with the front number plate moved down under the bumper and filled the hole. Nice look! The number plates look smaller, does anyone know where can I get one from and is it legal? cheers

g-man, The FPR is going and being replaced by a standard 3.5 bar. The fuel is working fine. I'll post when i've change it. Cheers for the happy, I'll get there in the end. Chris

Hi, The FPR has been tested at 3.5, it was increased to 3.7 to see if it would make any difference (no it didn't). I not sure if it was getting the correct psi at idel & WOT. I will be changing the FPR to bosch 3.5 bar. Not totally sure but I think the fuel pump has been checked out. The car is going in for another check over I'm hoping to resolve it this time.

andycowuk, Still pinking & it'll really driving me mad. The cars going in for a check over and if it's still pinking I'm off to Germany to get it done once and for all. Here the final list: 1) Check Front * Rear Knock Sensor for damage. a) Replace Knock sensors and tighten to 15Lb/ft IIRC. 2) Check wire from multiplug which the Knock sensor plugs into. 3) Make sure that you have the timing set to around 6deg BTDC on 1 with the blue temp sensor disconnected... (Can anyone please confirm this. I'm also aware this maybe different to what your setup is, am I correct?). 4) Check Fuel Pressure. a) standard 3.0 bar (mine is adjustable and is set to 3.7 bar with stage 4 charger etc). 5) Check Blue switch is not damage and working correctly. 6) Change Fuel Filter. 7) Is the crank pulley woodruf key worn? a) The crank pulley bolt comes loose and the woodruf key and slot gradually gets worn through the loading/unloading. It was showing correct timing on the flywheel, but where the crank pulely and woodruf key were so worn it was actually 11 degrees out. Worth checking as it can just let go, then there is serious damage!

Seat for me, modernises the front nicely :lol:

nikosg60, Thanks for the info I'm going to be check a lot of the above things this weekend I'll post back the out comes. Guys thanks for all your help. Cheers Chris

great thanks. Do you think just adjusting the FPR i have to 3.5bar would be good enough.

Dubcharged, g-man, Ok I'm going to check out the FPR a little more and see if I can put a standard one back. What would be the best a 3.0 or 3.5 bar taking my mods in to consideration and the make. Guys thanks for all your help with this it's been very much appreciated. :D

Any one else got any info?

Pinking list update: Here's the list so far, Please add or amend thanks 1) Check Knock Sensor for damage. a) Replace Knock sensor and tighten to 15Lb/ft IIRC. 2) Check wire from multiplug which the Knock sensor plugs into. 3) Make sure that you have the timing set to around 6deg BTDC on 1 with the blue temp sensor disconnected... (Can anyone please confirm this. I'm also aware this maybe different to what your setup is, am I correct?). 4) Check Fuel Pressure. a) standard 3.0 bar (mine is adjustable and is set to 3.7 bar with stage 4 charger etc). 5) Check Blue switch is not damage and working correctly. 6) Change Fuel Filter. 7) Is the crank pulley woodruf key worn? a) The crank pulley bolt comes loose and the woodruf key and slot gradually gets worn through the loading/unloading. It was showing correct timing on the flywheel, but where the crank pulely and woodruf key were so worn it was actually 11 degrees out. Worth checking as it can just let go, then there is serious damage! Any more?

G60Renshaw, I'll add to list and I'll check out crank pulley bolt etc thanks g-man, I can adjust it back to 3.5 bar easily so I can't see the point in putting a standard on as I'll be modding the engine more in the future. I'd love to pop down but it's a 200 mile round trip.

Not sure what the FPR is as it can on the Rallye G60 engine when I brought it. I wasn't sure if it was adjustable but after looking at it I could change the pressure easily by turn the top nut. Cheers The timng was set by Darren @ G-werk I would of thought it was right. I don't really want to knock the timng out by playing around with it. Can you think of anything else it may be? Cheers

Need help with this one, if you've had any experience with pinking please help add to the list. thanks

g-man, The knock sensor is the green sensor type and was just tighten into place manual I did hear a small click into place. Could it be damage? If so have can I tell? Henny, The timing was done by g-man, when I saw him last and haven't changed it. The timing is correct by him. When pulling out the blue sensor while idling the engine slows and struggles. What I want to do is create a all time list of what to check when pinking occurs. Here's the list so far, Please add or amend thanks 1) Check Knock Sensor for damage. a) Replace Knock sensor and tighten to 15Lb/ft IIRC. 2) Check wire from multiplug which the Knock sensor plugs into. 3) Make sure that you have the timing set to around 6deg BTDC on 1 with the blue temp sensor disconnected... (Can anyone please confirm this. I'm also aware this maybe different to what your setup is, am I correct?). 4) Check Fuel Pressure. a) standard 3.0 bar (mine is adjustable and is set to 3.7 bar with stage 4 charger etc). 5) Check Blue switch is not damage and working correctly. 6) Change Fuel Filter. I know their must be more things to add, please help build a definitive list. Thanks Chris

Optimax, read on here that BP Ultimate is better though. I haven't been able to check which is better yet.

Hi, I know you guys on here are full of knowledge about this one and I have read the posts on this topic but mine G60 is still pinking :( Here's the situation/set-up. Had a conversion from a standard G60 engine to a Rallye G60 with stage 4 charger and custom front mounted intercooler. The engine sounds good and strong apart from pinking at around 2K. It doesn't seem to pink under load. Went to G-Werk about month ago-ish and had a green SNS chip plus timing check and corrected. They noticed the knock sensor was looking a little worn, so recommend I change it. The engine felt better after this but still pinking, I hoped the chip may have sorted this out. The next step was to replace the worn knock sensor, no difference to the pinking, DAM!! :? :? I've checked the fuel pressure and its fine tried increasing the pressure to see if this would help. No it didn’t running at 3.7bar. :mad: So where do I go next should I try colder spark plugs???? Can anyone please help as it's driving me mad. :mad: :mad: Cheers

Hi, I have fitted a customer IC and all I say is make sure you have room for it and good pipe work as I've had so much trouble getting it sorted. Here's some pics, as you'll see I had to remove alot for stuff to get it in with the standard bumper.

Here's some pics of my engine bay, so you can see want I'm working with here.

stevemac, What wheels are they?

biggrim, The lights are inpro's but I'd say the Fk ones are better as they are not so bling!!!

The wheels are 17x8 with 215/40 F1's all round had to have the arches rolled, still a tight as the coilover springs come down lower than the standard shock & springs. Handling is fine, on rails!!!!