RallyRaddo

Excellent, Guess I have a place to put the replacement passenger mirror now. It's only been sitting on a shelf in the garage for a year. Better respray it first though, so it matches the rest of the car. Anyone know the paint code for rust please? Kev

The ones I drove years ago from time to time were the ambulance version. Do yourself a favour & get it LPG'd, aprox £1000 well spent. Looked at the mileage of my Discovery last week, a 1994 M plate - 150K The Corrado, a 1991 on an H Plate - 130K. Older car, lower mileage, Bonus! Hope you guys have many happy miles Kev

Simmilar problem for me: Used car during the week, noticed turnover wasn't as "Oomphy" as it should be. Drove about 10 miles up A90 and into Aberdeen City Centre. Parked for 15 mins & on return, so dead even the stereo lost its programming. Thankfully the car park I was in, had a handy slope, so was able to bump start it without any hassle. Drove 5 miles through city & parked up again at Kittybrewster. Handy as the shop I was going to had a Halfords next door. Looked at the fitting guide and the Bosch battery for a Corrado was, wait till you hear this - £95 :? Car started no problem rest of the day, wierd eh? Gonna look at that Braille one but also the Optima. Can anyone recommend what model though, there seems to be a few? Cheers Kev

Oh, by the way. While I am on the subject, I bought one of these 12v heaters from Amazon: http://www.amazon.co.uk/200w-Plug-Ceramic-Car-Heater/dp/B000VE4L64/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1200242611&sr=8-5 Thought to myself, "200w, must be as good as a small hairdryer and will be great till I resolve the heating problem". It arrived and is a complete waste of time. Doesn't even blow very hard and any heat that comes out is very minimal. Apart from looking monsterous in size on top of the dashboard, it's well ugly to look at and the vents don't swivel. Save yourselves the money guys & forget buying these, if not this model anyway. I did, on the freezing cold mornings we had leading up to Christmas, run an electrical ext from the garage and into the Corrado. Plugged in a household fan heater for 10 mins & that defrosted all the windows and gave me some heat for the 1st 5 mins of my journey. After that I relied on the aforementioned jacket, gloves & hat, LOL Kev

Guys! Brilliant response, thanks ever so much!!!!! Dic, you reckon controls, even though I hear the flap opening & closing? Hmmm, think I will give a detailed look at this before I follow that excellent Corrado Club of Canada step by step guide. I am not loosing any coolant, that I know for a fact, so fingers crossed there may be light at the end of the tunnel. Weetos, yes, I did stick a hose into the matrix piping & blasted it. Water came out clean so again, this could be a good sign towards a control problem. If you are doing yours soon, it's a doddle. On my Valver, the 2 pipes that go into the bulkhead are jubilee clips and not those horrid spring clips. When changing the valve, a good twist breaks the seal of the rubber onto the plastic. In fact it was such an easy job when I did it, I wondered if I had done it correctly. Just wish everything else was as straight forward. Thanks again Chaps, I will let ya know how I get on Kev

Hi Guys, I have read through 2 pages of heater matrix threads, but no one seems to have actually given a detailed breakdown of how their jobs went when it came to removing the dash. I read 1 thread where someone said it was possible to do the replacement with the dash in place. Who ever that was must have been a contortionist cos having looked at the Lindsay Porters manual for a Corrado (Actually, it's more like a technical comic & no use when you want to do a tricky job) the matrix is right in the middle of the dash, ooooh heck! I saw a reference to a manual by Bentley. Don't have one of those but does anyone have one that can look & see if there's a detailed step by step guide to doing the job please? Reason for having to replace the matrix, is no warm air at all in the car. I have replaced the valve in the engine bay with a genuine VAG one having been told they were prone to going faulty. That made no difference. Next I cleaned the complete cooling system with stuff from Halfords & then flushed with clean water. Nice to see 18 yrs of brown water coming out, but alas, it didn't solve the problem & I still get cold air in the car. The 2 pipes going through the bulkhead into the car, are very hot so I guess the water's going in and out, but not circulating within the matrix itself, and hence that's my reasoning for assuming the old matrix is destined for the skip. The control lever seems to be operating correctly as when shifting from hot to cold, there is a noticeable increase in forced air and I can hear the flap opening and closing under the dash. Would really love to get this resolved cos driving to and from work is a pain, having to wear a thick jacket, gloves & wooly hat. Not to mention the windscreen misting up all the time, LOL Cheers for any pointers folks Kev

Guess I have joined the elite club of Frustrated Bulb Changers!!!!! Gotta agree with all the comments to date about that frekkin middle screw The Philips XTreme's with that oh so wanted 80% more light, will have to stay in the box a few more days till I can find a sodding long drill bit! Kev

But! There again, a nice wiring diagram of the Power Door /Window, Fuse/Relay layout might be cheaper to look at and fault find the problem. Don't you just love trawling through the Internet for info that's free? yep, can you tell I am from Aberdeen........... http://volkswagen.msk.ru/ (or look at the attachment to this entry) I was right, there ARE only 2 wires going into the window motor, so at least Previous Owner Noxxx has not got his hands on that part of the car. Next task I think, is to find where the Power Window Control Unit is hiding. Pretty surprised to see the central locking wiring is tied into the same loom as the electric windows Ah, the joys of electrics!! Kev

This is so tempting: http://www.plastics4performance.co.uk/pro_windows_clear.asp *5 pc kit including everything except the front windscreen 4mm clear FLEXIGLASS @ £180.00 + VAT 4mm clear POLYCARBONATE @ £200.00 + VAT 4mm bronze or grey POLYCARBONATE @ £210.00+ VAT 4mm clear LEXAN MARGARD POLYCARBONATE @ £300.00 + VAT 5mm clear LEXAN MARGARD thermoformed front screen @ £250.00 + VAT Slider Kits @ £20.00 per door and are fully installed, these measure 210 x 210 mm as std

None of the previous threads have helped in my case, though I was able to locate the seperate in line 20a fuse which keeps blowing. Symptoms: Pass door window stck open about 4" I have removed the door card and expected to see 3 wires to the electric window motor (Common earth, live for up & live for down) There are only 2 wires, so am assuming the motor is earthed via the various mounting bolts holding it to the door and the 2 wires (Blue & Black) are live (1 for up & 1 for down) Checked the blue & black with a multimeter and got continuity between them. Pretty sure that shouldn't happen, so pulled the plug off at the motor and again, continuty between the 2 poles. Tried a direct feed from the battery (+ & -) Earthed the door with the negative wire: A. Nothing happened when touching the black wire B. Sparks when touching the blue wire No wiring diagram for elec windows in the "Lindsay Porter" Manual (Biggest waste of time that publication is by the way) so I am pretty stumped on how to get the glass up. I did try pushing the window up manually, but that's not budging at all. Looked at the manufacturers name on the motor "Electric lift", from Italy. Googled but nothing found. is there a possibility the actual motor has burned out and that's the reason for the continuity between the 2 wires and me not being able to manually push the window up? Any idea's or suggestions gratefully appreciated. Thanks Kev

Cheers guys! very much appreciated. Keep an eye out on ebay for a yellow Corrado I think very soon :2gunfire: But there again, they are such a rare car up here, it might be worth struggling on.................... Kev

Hi Guys, This car is probably the worst buy I have ever had in all my years of driving, aaargh!!! It's been on the drive and in the garage more than I have had it on the road. New problem: I rekon the thermostat having read a few threads but would be good to get some experienced opinions please. Overheated last week and couldn't find where the steam was coming from at the front end, so now I am looking to change the thermostat. When the car is cold, I start up the engine. The top radiator hose gets hot however, the bottom remains cold. Would I be right in saying it's the thermostat? Hope it's not the pump......... Looks like a sod of a job too, as from first glances, it means having to take off the brackets beside the (NEW) power steering pump in order to access the bolts holding the thermostat housing on. Cheers Kev

According to my neighbour, a few doors down, it is louder. She sent me a text yesterday thanking her for waking her up as I left the drive and drove past her house, waking her up, allowing her to get the refuse out in time for collection lorry, LOL Kev

Jonny, It's just arrived in the post this morning. I will get it fitted and let you know any difference in noise / performance soon. It's simmilar to the competion filter I had previously: foam type impregnated with oil. Cleanable and reuseable after re-oiling. Cost breakdown Filter £36.00 Delivery £5.50 Sub Total £41.50 VAT £7.26 Total £48.76 Kev

If memory serves me right, and I'm going back to 1983 when I did my maintenance training for driving vehicles in the Army, at the HT Lead, you are getting 64,000 volts from the coil. Kev

Yes, direct replacement for the standard one Kev

Just ordered a replacemet ITG Filter from Merlin Motorsport (Pt No WB481). I used a competition ITG Filter on my rally prepared Discovery for years and wondered if anyone's used this make on a Corrado? Curious about any improvements noticed. Cheers Kev

Oh heck, just for a laugh, I am gonna add another manufacturer to the equation: AVO - SPORT EVO GTZ http://www.avouk.com/pm/4 Adjustable damping & ride height, race spec springs and well i suppose, just read the spec. It looks like the build quality is excellent and from my discussion with John at Proven Products, they would give the Koni 1150's a run for their money as well as being in the region of £50 cheaper. The other good advantage, is that the coil over can be returned to AVO in the UK for any repairs that may develop with wear & tear, therby saving some hard earned cash, not having to buy a complete replacement. So, who's got any of these or know anything abouit them? Oh, use will be for road & sprinting. Cheers Kev

It's only the coil I am replacing just now. GSF's Online Shop for a distributor, part number 92033B is £69.50 exchange. You could always try Taylors on Lang stracht as well, 01224 662424.

Hi Laughingboy, You ain't the only one in this situ, I am too. Mine ran fine till I replaced a fuel pipe and on further investigation, I am not getting a spart out of the HT side of the coil. Taylors in Aberdeen have a Bosch coil in stock that I'm collecting tomorrow. Hopefully the engine will fire up as like you, there's plenty fuel getting through. kev

Replaced a fuel pipe in the engine bay due to excessive corrosion (Fuel distr to cold start valve) Car not starting now (eek) It did start & run beforehand. Have bleeded the fuel system and fuel is now plentiful at the fuel distributor. No spark from HT side of coil, but 12v present at LT side. Can a coil just stop working when sat in the garage? Also noticed prev owner has done away with the fuel accumulator under the car, to the front of the drivers rear wheel. The fuel pipe now routes directly from the fuel pump to the filter, then fwd to the engine. What effect is this having on the fuel system by taking the accumulator out? Thanks guys. Kev

Excellent feedback guys!!!! Thanks VERY much Kev

Hi Guys, Possibly been asked B4, but with over 160 pages in the "Engine Bay" section......... Would it be a worthwhile excerise putting my 1.8/16v in to have it tuned? http://www.wallaceperformance.co.uk/ As I don't know the history of the car, I don't know if it's got any engine issues so it could be worthwhile. Additionally, are all the adverts I see about performance HT leads & fancy spark plugs as good as they claim? Sorry, I been driving a diesel Land Rover for years and never had to find out before! As the car doesn't have a chip, what sort of power should one expect when put on a rolling road. I'm going to be getting some cylinder head work done in the not too distant future so it might be good to see what difference there is following the refit. Cheers Kev

41 yrs old, me and the wife insured to drive, clean licence, no accidents convictions etc. Ideal type of people to insure; TPF&T on a 1990 / H 1.8cc 16 Valve Moneysupermarket.com Post Office broker / Premier Insurance £92.46 And because I will be competing on road rallies, sprints etc: Competition Car Insurance (Road cover for competition cars) £225.16 My previous policy with Comp Car Ins allowed me to do basically any mod I wanted without it affecting the premium. Only if I changed the engine did I have to advise. Kev