G60_91

Had a word with a mechanic mate who is looking at my car on thurs as a favour. On the phone he said it sounded like an earth fault to cause all those things to go in one morning. Has anyone had a similar problem at all or do you know if the items that have failed are on a seprate earth connection to those that are still working ok? he's said as much info i can give him to narrow down what he is looking for will save him some time and money. Any comments or help would be much appreciated. many thanks sam

ok, ive checked for 2 fuses above the main board but cant see any. there's 1 which is hanging loose with the wires taped to it and there are also 2 wires hanging down taped together. They look like something left from the alarm install but i dont know for certain. is the fuse/relay panel the same on all corrado's?

cant see them at the minute, will i need to take any other trim off apart from the skuttle covering the fuseboard to get to them? My windows and c/l were the first to go, but could that have a knock on effect to my other electrics failing?

When you say the 2 above the fuse box, are those the large square numbered plug in fuses with 3 spade connectors? my auto electrionics knowledge is appalling sorry.

Im a bit stuck till my lunch hour now, i was going to go through and check them all at dinner but i was late in this morning anyway so cant really go and have a look. If i go for a sly smoke break in a min i will check, which ones are they?

I went to open my G this morning and found the central locking isnt working, from remote or manually. I thought i must need a new pump or something, but when i got in and drove along the elec windows werent working. On my way to work today i have lost the following things and have checked over a few of the fuses but they all look fine. Ive just done a quick search on here and google and found a few things realting to a 'convenience control unit' which has the same symptoms as mine. I did give it a wash yesterday and apparantley this can blow when there is a severe leak? ive lost.....sunroof, windows, fogs, heated rear screen, wipers, heaters/blowers, central locking... but these still work....headlights, spoiler (typical!) elec mirrors, radio, interior lights. any help would be much appreciated as it looks like rain today and i will be stuck at work if i canna get my wipers goin!! :(

Have you had a good look underneath it? check cv's and driveshafts. Does it grind only when in gear and the clutch out or is it as soon as its in gear its noisy?

Does anyone know for sure how the MFA works out the mpg read out? Is it literally how many pounds of fuel against the milometer readout (from the gearbox i assume?) Thats what i think it must base it on as i sit with mine running for 5-10 mins before i set off or leave work and used to get ridiculous mpg readouts like 12-15 mpg. Ive found if i reset it just before i moved off then its much closer to a real readout. I get on average 25mpg through city/town, 30mpg on fast back roads and motorways i usually get about 32-35 depending on what speed im sitting at and what gradient the roads are. Ive never found it to be really really far off what i actually do to the gallon. My brother has a valver and his is worse on fuel than mine, which i was very suprised to find out. I guess it all depends on how you drive em aswell but even if i thrash mine all the way to work i dont see anything below 19-20mpg. He seemed to think it was an exhaust problem on his as he'd had a decat pipe fitted and it seemed to coincide with that. His car is on ebay if anyone wants a look....... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1992-VOLKSWAGEN-C ... dZViewItem

thats weird. It could be that mine have been done already then. They dont budge, even at 135!

Yeah id heard about GSF parts in general so steered clear. VAG part was quite expensive, but its worth it for peace of mind They also had it in stock at the first small VW garage i tried . I feel much better on longer trips now i know the coolant temp.... the oil temps are a different matter which will require some money chucking at it soon. Seeing 130 degs on the motorway!

good good. Will be putting it on asap!

Have you checked the dizzy and sparks yet? VW dizzys are prone to failures in my experience. My bro has a 2l valver and his just died like yours. Turned out to be a seal on the dizzy that was letting oil in! On a mk3 golf i had (and a mates old beetle), the little metal clip on the external plastic dizzy casing was causing a short and was firing ok but no spark down the leads so wouldnt run. Took a while to figure that one out.

My brother went through a Mk1 phase before having a few other VW's. His was a mint condition Mk1 Driver in Apline white. It was 1.3, went ok, handled amazing and as far as i can remember had all the GTi trim on it anyway. Prob be very hard to find an ok one now, but would be cheaper insurance than GTi and have the looks. Plus if you restored it to std it would be worth quite a bit i wud imagine. I always keep an eye out for one and if one came along i think that would a great proj car to have IMO this is quite a nice one, dont know if its still up for sale tho http://www.volkszone.com/VZi/showthread.php?t=137164

Hi again. CAT bypass pipe from Gwerks is really good price delivered and hopefully looks like wont be too hard to fit it on. Is there anything i would need to have done with the ECU to alter the lambda sensor readings or will it just be a case of putting the probe in? many thanks sam

I dont know if mine have been done before i got the car, but i dont think they have. I will prob get slated for saying this, but mine work fine...dont really think i could get the windscreen any cleaner. Certainly better than other cars ive owned. Also (will prb get slated even more) im using wiper blades from wilkos which do the job really well and ive read everywhere that the Bosch blades are a must. Is the poor performance of the wipers a thing that came with the car as new or do they wear out really quickly?

Hi dirtytorque, mines working fine now and it was the balck temp sensor. New one was £22 from VW with new ring seal. The black temp sensor on mine has two wires, one is y/g like an earth wire and the other is solid brown. The blue temp sensor has the same y/g and has a br/white 2nd wire. Is this the same as yours? Also, in my excitement to fit the sensor and see if it would work, i didnt remove the header tank cap and got a nice spray of coolant and water all over my specs when i pulled out the old sensor as it was still under a bit of pressure. I would remove the cap if i did it again :oops:

id say thats about right but obviously that cud be £400-500 worth of not alot if theres no warranty or anything. Depends on the guy youre getting it off and whether you trust him enough or if he trusts the guy he got it off. If it were me, id haggle him down more and take it to be serviced somewhere reputable anyway. But that puts it at quite a high price for a std charger. Difficult one really imo.

cheers for the advice guys. Supercharged, I will have that knock sensor off you if youve got it still? will PM you my details later. Blue sensor is less than a year old, even found the old one wedged behind the dizzy against the engine!! Is it worth changing them both at the same time? Might just get both ordered and keep blue one safe and sound. Hopefully oil breather pipe shudnt be much?? or will i get stung for that? Thats a few jobs hopefully sorted anyways. Now its time to think about the charger and exhaust. Charger is due to be rebuilt in just over 15k, but thats only going off the jabbasport certificate and the mot mileage so will look at getting it done in the next 5k or so. cheers again ppl.

No aircon on mine no. dash Guage does work when i swap the plugs over, but doesnt work at all when black plug is on the black sensor. Wud that still happen if the dash gauge was faulty in anyway? The blue sensor has been replaced fairly recently, will dig out the receipts and check when exacly. Yeah oil perssure light comes on before turning it over, then goes away when started. Gave the car a good going over today and noticed a few other bits to replace. The cable from the Knock sensor is slightly worn where some muppet had zip tied it to the water hose WAY too tight. Also, got a fairly small split in the short pipe running from the oil breather cap to the S/C hose. Need a new cat or a bypass puipe soon aswell.... Will be getting my wallet knocked outa shape this week as ive got to sort a new mortgage on weds. cheers for the advice, will get a new dash guage ordered.

Ive had a broken dash water temp gauge now for bout 2 weeks and cant seem to find what the problem is. The cooling system seems to be working fine. No problem with the fan, radiator, not losing coolant etc. I read on a thread somewhere to swap over the black n blue water temp sensors on the piping joint near the front of the block to see if its working. The temp gauge moves when i do this, but only upto about 70-72 degrees. Ive also read that you can unplug the blue sensor with the engine running to test if that one is working (as you hear the engine note change/revs drop and fluctuate). Thats working fine. so, when i swap the black plug over to the blue sensor and get my dash gauge working slightly, i can still unplug the blue plug on the black sensor and get the drop in revs/change in engine note... does that mean there is something else wrong? is there any/much difference between the black n blue sensors? maybe one is more sensitive? Ive also found today an extra clip thats not connected up to anything and cant find where its meant to go. Its off the same wiring as the black n blue temp. plugs, with 3 smaller spade type fittings lower down the length of the cable. Blue and green are connected up but there is a 3rd white and blue one which is just left unconnected. I had some work done to it a month or so ago and dont know if maybe its been taken off and the guy just didnt know where to put it back on? The dash gauge WAS working after i had this work done tho so maybe it was loose and has come of its connection??!!?? Im a bit stumped and dont really know how to tell whats knackered and whats not anymore, any help wud be mucho appreciated. sam

wonder what the turning circle is? at 300mph probably a whole country, if you dont get into orbit first.

Thanks. S/C was serviced bout 20k ago. Was thinking i would have it done anyway as i read somewhere that while its been done its best to replace the tensioners as well? I think i will prob take myself down to G-Werks one day and look at getting all the bits for the above. Cat bypass, pulley, belt, tensioners and maybe get it chipped n mapped. Im not sure what chip is in there, although i wud imagine he sold it with the pulley before he sold the car to me. I will have a look on GWerks website now n price it all up. Very impressed with the car so far and did the boost check and its reading out between 1800-1900 on the mfa. Only real problem with it is the temp gauge on the dash isnt reading anything. Not losing any coolant, Fan kicks in, coolant is getting to rad and heaters working so guessing its just the dash connection? Oil temp seems to correspond with the temp the fan kicks in at so ive been using that to get me by. Thanks for the advice. Im off to sell a kidney....

Thanks! I will get it ordered this weekend. Garry, from what youve said I shud be ok with leaving the cat bypass on permanently. Thanks for clearing up the req's for emissions test and stuff as i wasnt too sure of the details. Maybe i shud start a new topic, but I have a Stage 4 ported charger with a standard pulley. The lad i got it from before ran it with a 68mm for a while then put the standard one back on for fuel consumption reasons, i think the running cost was why he sold it in the end aswell. Is it a big job to fit a smaller pulley back on? Is there anything which shud be replaced/checked before i do it? many thanks sam

thanks. G-Werks look like the best bet then. Mine is a 91 or a 92 so im not sure whether it has to have a cat to pass MOT? Is it right that if the car came with one on in the first place even before the 93 cut-off then it has to have one?

cheers, will have a look later on. seen a few on ebay aswell. Is it the same pipe for G's and 16v's? some of the sites only list them as being for 16vs or for VR's. I would imagine its the same for all the 4 cylinder engines?