Chris

are you running a g60 pump with a 16v pump? thats a bit greedy lol

when they start making that noise it means they are struggling, and yes they can gradually get worse and worse until it becomes a daily occurrence. mine did this, it decided to die completely when we had that snow at the beginning of the year, what a time. first thing to check, make sure your tank lift pump is working, it only takes 5 mins to whip this out and check. the fuel pump will still get fuel to the engine if the lift pump stops working but it will be acting like a siphon. this puts strain on the pump over time. usually the tank lift pump will die without any indication. i reckon mine died about a year or 2 before i start getting main pump problems going by the noises it made over that period of time. they are cheap to replace, i would recommend that you replace both at the same time. it can make a lot of difference. but then....your lift pump maybe fine, which would mean its just the main pump on its way out, worth checking though. i stupidly didnt the first time i replaced my fuel pump, end up burning the new one out then having to buy another one with the lift pump.

what did the thread title say again...oh yeh "post a pic" :lol:

the wheel looks great bud :D crack on with the rest and get them on the car :wink:

bless her, she's gone now :(

agreed, once the car is back down on the deck they wont rotate

ive got a perfect working 1993 vr6 ecu. £40 plus postage. i used it for 2 years so i know its good. (its a coilpack one) let me know bud chris

looking good sam :D

ha ha! i remember that move, didnt end to well for me. make sure she's in a good mood before asking :D

it will be something simple which weve mentioned, its a process of elimination, i wouldnt worry too much. the starter motor will turn the engine over regardless of fuel or spark if youve noticed unusual loud whirring noises from the pump it usually means its on its way out, the car should still run to an extent though if fuel is still being pumped.

like i said before your fuel pump primes so the relay is probably not at fault. it doesnt need to pump a lot of fuel on prime, tbh it doesnt need to prime to get the engine running, the prime just helps bring the pressure up which then assists the start. check all of the plugs, do it properly, do it once. i wouldnt assume fuel problem before checking this. have you tried taking the flow pipe off and turning the car over yet to see if its pumping properly? even if its a knackered pump which doesnt produce the correct pressure to the rail you should still get the car to run (maybe like a bag of $hit, but running none the less)

there should be more fuel than a tiny dibble. it should be enough to bring the rail up to working pressure. i guess saying that maybe it does only pump that much when priming, its been awhile since i last checked this myself. its possible that you have blocked one of the fuel lines/fuel filter/fuel pump when you ran the tank dry. it would have sucked up all the crap at the bottom of the tank at this point. i wouldnt pin it on this personally but its possible. check spark first as that is easy to do, then go back and check fuel supply.

your car tries to start so you can definately eliminate the starter and ignition switch, if these had gone in any way the engine wouldnt turn. have you taken the plugs out, left them plugged into the ht leads and turned the engine over to check there all sparking? obviously you may need someone to turn the engine whilst you check. the inlet manifold needs to come off to check the fuel injectors, the rail is held in by 4 10mm bolts then you just pull it out of the lower inlet (be careful not to damage the rubber o rings when you put the injectors/rail back into the manifold, lube them up) - doubt this will be the problem though also the fuel pump primes, so doubt youve got an issue with the fuel pump relay aswell

as above, if youve got fuel, spark and air you should see a running vr if the car turns over properly everytime it wont be starter motor or ignition switch. fpr sometimes causes a starting issue if the diaphragm has split but the car will still start. injectors working properly? you can check this by taking the fuel rail off and put them over a bowl whilst turning the car over.

How did you get on with the center console mate? i may have a certain bonnet youll be interested in soon :)

very much doubt it'll be related. if you take the belt off a vr6 it doesnt stop the engine running. to put it simply, you have an alternator - this keeps the battery charged (unless battery is dead, the engine will continue to run with or without this) power steering pump - this is not essential for the engine to run. but on idle revs, if you turn the wheel it can sometimes cause the revs to drop off but the knock sensors would catch this. water pump - this is not essential for the engine to run, lol, but you definately need it! Tensioner - is in the name. i would almost certainly say you have another issue here. doesnt sound like a big one tbh :) i would agree with fla, check those things, i wouldnt waste your time worrying about the belt.

yes it will. you just need to remove the bracket for the center rest.

probably is bud, mine is slightly raised

is it a b4 sunny? (cant speak for the other types as ive never tried them) if so, you wont have that problem bud, ive had mine in for ages and never experienced a problem like that with it.

i have a passat b4 sunny. it fits well but not quite as snug as the original corrado one. and agree with coullstar, slight wind noise at high speed if the shutter isnt closed

water pump is always worth doing if your not sure of age/mileage/condition. but the engine needs to be lifted slightly to do it. as for alternator/PAS pump, leave them. you'll soon find out if there no good. but if they worked fine before the tensioner went they should be fine now, doubt the tensioner breaking would have caused too many problems, end of the day they are just spinning pulleys, you may have experienced heavy-ish steering without the tensioner but that will rectify itself with a new one.

as james said, the bonnets are the same fitment.

youll also need to sort out the power supply as the early and late plugs are different. it quite straight forward though

gsf only do 1 vr6 tensioner and they will fit all vr6's. it is definately a genuine part as well to put your mind at ease, i bought one not so long ago. youll need a long bolt to relieve the tension on the tensioner (cant remember what size, you see the threaded hole in the tensioner) and a 13mm socket for the 3 bolts on the side of the head.

buy the complete tensioner from gsf. they sell the genuine part, only difference is that the part no's etc will be ground off. otherwise youll be spending more at vw when there is no need. dont think vw do the pulley and bearing separate. you can buy aftermarket ones but i would just get the gsf one. if you do try to replace the bearing + pulley remember the bolt is a left hand thread (clockwise to undo it)