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dr_mat

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Posts posted by dr_mat

  1. Posted

    There is no OE anti theft module, there is only an optional unit that was dealer-fit ("Cobra" branded I think). This is not factory integration it's about as reliable as any other after market bodge. Personally I would have it removed, or remove it myself. Unless it's different in North American cars I can't see it being any use in the modern market anyway as it's lost its insurance rating a long time ago.

  2. Posted

    If you have vagcom/obdeleven/vcds you can read off from the ECU whether start was allowed or not by the built in immobilizer. For what it's worth, iirc failures with this usually mean the car fires but won't run for more than a second or so.

     

    Coincidentally having one of the above diags tools will allow you to find what's really wrong with it...

     

    Sounds like your aftermarket immobilizer is preventing start to me.

  11. Posted · Edited by dr_mat

    I take it the knurled handle is meant to spin up and down the thread because mine has rusted on the end. Also the sleeve inside has snapped on both also casing that fits in housing is loose with cracks . Looks like I'm going to have to buy some adjusters, I suppose I could see it as £250 for basically new headlights (reflectors) and that adjust properly. I imagine all the second hand light available will be in poor condition so do not think it was better to buy some second hand headlights.

     

    Yes it's a problem .. you can buy new old stock headlights, but I've only ever found one side. https://www.vwheritage.com/536941018-headlight-for-right-hand-drive-right-vw-spare

     

    I fabricated something:

     

    http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?108656-Headlights-still-poor

  14. Posted

    The handle and the internal sleeve are fragile it is a very poor quality plastic. The white bits on the end that house the reflector are better quality and were still very strong.

     

    Looks different then the Corrado one but seen these and says fits.

     

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-FRONT-HEADLAMP-HEADLIGHT-ADJUSTER-SET-SCREW-BUSH-CLIP-KIT/192933421670?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144

     

     

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGON-CAR-HEADLAMP-HEADLIGHT-FULL-ADJUSTER-KIT-SCREW-BUSH-CLIP-SET/152604842890?fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item2387f51b8a:g:jicAAOSwbtVZS8FN

     

    These don't look big enough to me. It needs to be about 30mm diameter.

  15. Posted

    Is it the knurled knob of the adjuster that breaks, or the white plastic clamp thing that sits on the end of the ball joint/screw?

     

    I have a nice set of electric adjusters stashed away, and they have a manual dial for adjustment as a backup.

     

    The knurled knob is a bit weak, but that's no big deal, it's the large plastic grommit type part that engages into the rear of the headlamp housing and has the screw thread through the middle of that breaks. You don't need to touch the adjuster to remove the lens, but it's very hard to put so little pressure on the adjuster that you get the reflector out without breaking it, it's phenomenally fragile.

     

    3D printed replacements would be GREAT. If you can find an undamaged one to copy .. !!!

  17. Posted

    Yes, loom and bulbs will buy you lots of lumens but it's still going to look bad (and fail MOTs) if the reflectors are useless.

     

    I used Dual Metallising last year, they provide a great service with really amazing results. The issue you will have however is that the adjuster screw mechanism will collapse due to the crappy non-heat-stable plastics if you're not ultra-ultra- careful when removing the reflector from its retaining ball-and-socket mount points behind the reflector.

     

    I trashed both of mine and wound up fabricating something out of some similar (but smaller) parts off a Scirocco headlamp (still available for a couple of quid), and some large penny washers and self-locking nuts. It's a pain to adjust now ..

  21. Posted · Edited by dr_mat

    The coil pack has only three coils, so each vertical pair of outlets should spark at the same time. Sounds like you have a DOA Topran coil pack to me.

     

    EDIT - if you have the same issue with two coil packs it does seem more likely that you might have an issue with the HT trigger output on the ECU. The coil packs are simple, they usually fail because of heat cycling so even a new old stock one is unlikely to be faulty. As per the grouping on the coil pack itself the ECU has three output trigger lines. I don't know which pins those are but that would be where to look next I would say.

  24. Posted

    So as most of us probably know, the rado came with a few different types of instrument clusters. Some of them had a max speed of 140 mph... some of them (likely from the UK) had a max speed of 160 mph. While I have no intention of switching the cluster in my car, my brother who has built a VRT rado with 700 HP wants to use the 160 mph version (for obvious reasons), but obviously it's not plug and play with the normal 140 mph cluster cars. (At least I don't think so, even if it is, I still want an answer to my question.)

     

    EDIT: On second thought, it's almost definitely frequency. Since when moving the voltage is ~2.68V and the maxes are either 0V or 5.3V, it's almost definitely just frequency and I just got lucky with it stopping on 0V and 5.3V interchangeably. With it just being frequency the voltage when moving will ALWAYS stay at 2.65V or so since the on period and off period are likely roughly equal and both are reduced when frequency goes up.

     

    Oh and for how I plan to adapt it? Well, while I am an electronics nerd, I'm not an electrical engineer. I'd probably just program a little atmel microcontroller to input the frequency or whatever from the sensor, then output the "corrected" signal on another pin according to a "table" stored in memory. If I'm lucky.... the speedo will work on a linear relationship with the speed sensor, so I could just use some math and an equation. But if it's not linear, then I'd probably have to use a table as performing complex mathematical equations on the microcontroller every 100th or 1000th of a second isn't the easiest thing to do. Regardless, I'd also make it have a few calibration pots, and maybe even make it fancy and give it a little USB interface so it could be programmed from a computer with putty or something. If I were to get fancy with it, then it could become universal and not just for corrados... which is attractive. Oh and if I made it adjustable like this then we could print out own speedo backing plates and just use this to make the needle accurate to it.

     

    It would be linear, so IF the two speedos are differently calibrated (I can't see why they would be), you would be able to linearly scale the pulses from input to output side.

     

    However, I would only expect the two speedo binnacles to require different calibration if they were intended for cars with different final drive, but AFAIK that's not the case, AFAIK all Corrado VR6/SLC had the same final drive ratio, and the same wheel sizes, so the speed signal should be the same, and the dash calibration should be the same.

     

    And 4-5mph out of actually pretty close.. factory calibrated gear is rarely any closer than that, they always over-read by a comfortable 5-8%.

  25. Posted

    Dunno, but the wheel speed sensor still depends on wheel and tyre size so you need to calibrate for that. Gearbox feed has the exact same problem, you just need a different calibration because it also goes through final drive and the diff. Personally I'd keep the ABS working with 700 bhp in a Corrado, given a choice!

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