dr_mat

Resistor pack doesn't usually go, it's usually just the thermal fuse on it that goes from fatigue. Replace the thermal fuse (carefully) and you're good. I replaced the heater fan on mine too as it started failing, became incredibly stiff.

As for the fuse .. yeah but it's running on a 10A which is enough to make something pretty hot in the first place, and so many people react to a fuse blowing by putting in a higher rated one that used cars are a bit of a minefield when they've been owned by a tinkerer ..

I'd like the headlight adjuster plastic gromits if they're not about to fall apart .. !

I think I was past computer games when the PS1 came out .. that's how I was able to want a Corrado as a kid .. !

I imagine they'll have to start dealing with the concept of people who have to live within the zone too, like they do with the congestion charge. No idea how much that will cost..

It isn't calculated it's just based on the manufacturer stated emission rating. The rating scheme didn't even exist when the Corrado was made!

You'll just have to pay the £12.50 a day, or go by train!

The 195s are common with all the Golf 2 GTis and a load of other cars, there's LOADS of those about so that size is always going to be cheaper.

Vacuum leaks are definitely a probable cause. Dirty EGR not sure, I don't think we have those on the UK cars.

That's remarkably cheap!

Yeah it's a trade off. Personally found it worth the extra for the quieter ride and more predictable handling. The size of the rim doesn't really alter the cost, it's the quality of the tyre you're paying for.

I think there are issues with cloudflare's hosting, I keep getting their "site not responding" page periodically. As a general comment sadly I think the wind has gone out of the Corrado Forum's sails. It's very quiet around here compared to ten years ago.

I didn't like them either for the same reason. Just ok in the dry, poor in the wet and quite noisy as well. I think it's the compound more than the tread, but overhyped and overpriced imho. I'll have to look into the Uniroyal Rainsports, thanks for the suggestion.

Completely agree. Yes, I'm sure it's the compound coupled with the stiff sidewall construction.

Strongly recommend the Uniroyal, very much an improvement. Not quite up to the standards of the Eagle F1s I used to have but they got canned in 15" sizes years ago.

I'm pretty sure I paid about £70 a corner for them last time I got some, but I'd admit that was a little while ago ..

Nope, I've only seen the small plastic end piece that clips into the back of the reflector. The bit that disintegrates is the plastic grommet that holds the adjuster screw in the back of the headlight housing itself. That bit I've not been able to find anywhere.

It is very common that some VR6s wind up stalling when you drop the clutch on the way up to a junction (i.e. during overrun). I think this is actually caused by a number of underlying issues. One I've heard reported is the idle control valve being sticky. Clean it out, or replace it. Another I've heard is inlet/exhaust manifold leaks causing misfuelling (and associated error codes) as well as causing the stalling. I'm sure there's likely other possible causes too.

Is it just for me or does the forum website fail for everyone in https:// mode?

Anyone got any ideas where to get a headlight adjuster for a Corrado headlamp ... ?? Seems like a good job for a 3D printer for the small plastic component that collapses when you touch it when you're trying to refurbish them ..

The VR6 and other wide-track cars had slightly wider tyres to support the (small amount of) extra weight. You made the right choice.

It does make life slightly difficult because it's now becoming quite a rare tyre. I would also say that I didn't like the Toyo Proxes T1-R, found them good in the dry with very stiff sidewall, but pretty poor in the wet. I'll pretty much only buy Uniroyal Rainsport asymmetrics now, much better all rounders.

But that's what I'm saying. Mine is a May 1995 car and had red badges.

I would definitely say temperature sensing could be a big part of this. Obvious thing is to scan the ECU and see what it thinks is going on.

Leaky injectors would drop fuel into the inlet manifold, not in the cylinders themselves, though im sure there are many ways they can cause issues.

I'm not sure it's massively consistent. My very late VR6 had red VR6 badges front and rear, Chromed Corrado and VW badge. It may well have been a purchaser option.

Iirc you just prise, very gently.. there's a couple of lugs behind it that push fit into holes in the boot.

I think a lot of these cars are just a bit bent after all this time...

Vagcom is not required, a generic code reader will get the code but you'll have to decode them yourself. Obdeleven works too tho, and works on your smartphone. Very handy and not ridiculously expensive.

Is it the motor or the drive cables binding in one direction? I could imagine the issue being the cables more easily than the motor itself, but i didn't strip it down.

Want there a comparison of the vr6 and the bmw 325i last month too?