dr_mat

I'd say "because then you're messing with the ABS sensors" and you're more likely to have brake system problems.

It doesn't matter which feed you use, you still need to calibrate it. The one on top of the gearbox is on the output shaft so it reflects road speed just as well as an ABS wheel sensor would.

Most old cars, not just VWs, are wired like that. They simply hadn't thought about it.

Rocking horse droppings!

I think the best bet is to get your reflectors re-coated and use a loom. Even with perfect reflectors, the voltage at the headlight will still be lower than it should be and cause a drop in the light output - this is simply a design flaw and facto of life for early VAG cars because of the way the loom is run and the current is routed through the headlight switch.

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If you go and measure yours at the headlight connector, you'll be luck to see 11V there, more 9-10V

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Yeah, very aware of this too. At least the beam pattern is now clearly discernable after the reflectors are fixed though. There's no amount of bulb power can fix this if the reflector is failing.

I have to say there's only so much you can do with upgraded looms and so on. Even my '96 car was beginning to fail MOTs because the lights were pathetic. The only solution was to have the headlamp reflectors resilvered. Costs a lot more than a wiring loom tho ..

You should note that there are subtle differences in the wing designs between early and late cars (iirc?) So you might need to be more specific in your request. Some VR6s may have left the factory with early wings. I don't remember if there's bonnet differences too or not.

Facebook borgs everything. Useless platform for everything, and yet it marches on. Resistance is futile.

Trouble is I've found it's way cheaper to buy a set of Speedlines than it is to buy a set of tyres ... and they often come with a set of tyres ... !

I thought I was weird having 5* Speedlines (four on the car) and a set of 4* Solitudes in the shed. Perhaps I'm pretty conservative by most Corrado Forum members standards ... ? lol

Correct at full throttle it goes into static map relying only on knock sensors to control ignition retard. At all other times however it is relying on the lambda to trim fuelling so it will run the same way it runs after an ECU reset. This will likely be a little richer than normal operation. Don't trust the dashboard mpg..

There pathetic rear brakes on all old VW's will barely meet MOT requirements at the best of times, so don't worry if you can essentially just drive the car along without noticing the handbrake being on. You will however be aware that the handbrake is on if the wheels are off the floor and you should not be able to turn them by hand. This will be after pulling the hand brake up hard, obvs, I wouldn't expect a single click to do diddly squat.

I would say there's nothing wrong with the core ECU immobiliser. And who steals Corrados any more? No one even knows what they are.

You can also reset codes and stuff, and do basic settings. In other words, it can do ALL the functions that are possible on the OBDI Corrado VR6.

Re obdeleven : it works on VR6s but won't work on the other cars afaik.

No they are passive, just RFID tags essentially, but you could have a bad contact in it.

Save your time, ignore it and get an OBDeleven.

If the ABS light comes on during startup, but then goes out and stays out for the duration, you do not have a problem.

Your next challenge is to source sensible priced late model fog lamps....

The IKEA Floalt ones add wireless colour changing and dimming to this and make it easy to fit, but inevitably cost quite a lot more per lumen output. Good for household use though, particularly in kitchens

Light panels for the win. 3-4000 lumens for forty quid. More even lighting than even strip lights and less visual fatigue because they look a lot like roof windows.

Get some 4000k daylight white like linked above and place them around the ceiling in suitable spots.

E.g. https://www.screwfix.com/p/robus-ram40406060-01-led-panel-white-595mm-40w/5122t

You need an old fashioned load tester for the battery, not a multimeter.

You might be onto the fact that your battery is a bit low on capacity (as opposed to voltage), lead acid batteries degrade rapidly if they're allowed to discharge and left discharged for any period of time, and it sounds like you've recharged it a few times. (You've done well, I've never got more than 3-4 years out of a battery in a VW..)

A poor battery won't just cause issues starting, it does also provide a huge reserve of current for spontaneous loads during normal use. I would be surprised if it could cause lumpy idle on its own however.

It's my belief, thus far not proven, that the intermediate drive shaft for the oil pump is the cause for a lot of the regular tapping noises on old VWs. It's the one thing that's never replaced during timing chain replacements, and replacing tappets all day long doesn't ever seem to make it completely go away.

I have no clue where you heard the steering was "light" on a Corrado. On the contrary compared to modern cars it's really heavy. One thing that IS true, however, is that it's wonderfully fluid and "free running" in a way that a modern electrically-assisted rack will never be. The difference is that Corrado allows you to freely apply force to the heavy wheels, but a modern car requires you to apply force against the steering load angle sensors, and IT handles moving the wheels for you. Modern car's wheels just stay put when you let go, boring boring boring.

Alternatively just give every car you park next to a pre-emptive kicking so you get yours in first.