dr_mat
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Everything posted by dr_mat
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I think that your thermostat is stuck open.
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Only closed or open circuit is detected on the MAF. Any other form of "not working right" is not reported. Unplug it. If the car is still *driveable* then it's a strong chance your MAF was being ignored by the ECU. Don't take it as read that the car still idling means anything.
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80 degrees water temp is normal, in fact that's a shade on the low side, tbh. How long does it take to reach that temperature? Does it increase if you get stuck in traffic? Does it ever go below 80? Thing is, the thermostat isn't supposed to open at all 'till 80 degrees, so most cars run 85-90.
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So what's the water temps like during your drive home .. ?
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Is it consistent, by the way, that the fan never comes on until you turn the ignition off ... ?
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I think he went home to his parent's place to get his washing done this weekend ... ;)
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Oil smoke pretty much always has a tinge of blue to it.
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Yeah, if you see smoke the most important question is what colour was it!
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.. plus no-one yet knows what the "common failures" on the high miles 24v engines are going to be, because there's not enough 12-year old ones about to tell. Whilst it's clear that there have been a number of improvements over the years, and there's good reason to think they shouldn't suffer the exact same problems as the old 12v, there's a lot more technology on that engine, which inevitably means more bits to go wrong ...
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"Usual spots": - heater matrix hose at the back of the cylinder head under the cable tidy (this is #1!) - aux electric water pump - expansion tank cap - heater matrix (as stated above) ... - thermostat housing - water pump .. plus the big, obvious ones like the rad ..
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Ah, ok. Odd though cos the engine blocked by immobiliser usually takes a few seconds to come up. But then, if the key has been in the lock, with the ignition on for a few seconds.. Is it the "usual" crank sensor one? "No signal"? If it's anything other than "No signal" then it's the crank sensor wiring.
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I would say it's most likely the wiring after you disconnected the piggy back ECU myself .. double check that side of things. You *might* have fried your ECU, but more likely is the ECU isn't getting a crank sensor signal.
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Yeah, that's the bunny. Just wasn't sure about it, thought I'd mention it.
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HELP!!! VR losing power and drinking loads of juice !!!
dr_mat replied to balboa's topic in Engine Bay
Drinking LOTS of juice would generally be the lambda (or the exhaust manifold leaking). The MAF only "trims" fuelling a little, it doesn't make a huge difference, maybe 3-4 mpg or so. -
The weather makes a big difference to the economy, particularly if you're doing shortish commutes. It's five degrees colder these mornings than a month ago ..
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Smoothly enough. It just wasn't very responsive though. One other thing. I have heard that it's possible for the timing collar on the rear camshaft to come loose - if this were to slip back the engine would have the ignition retarded all the time, but it wouldn't show up as retard in the ECU. Not sure how feasible this is, but run it by Vince. Recon MAFs aren't cheap. But buy a 2nd hand one on ebay, if the car drives differently, then it's likely that something was up with the other one.
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Get it scanned.
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Help! (again) My VR went stuttery then refused to start
dr_mat replied to madmansi's topic in Engine Bay
I think you have to get the ECU scanned. Everything else is just guesswork. -
Ford Galaxy has a later OBD2-style MAF I think. If you have timing issues too, maybe you should consider swapping the ECU? It's not unheard of.
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If you take a look at the car's manual, you'll find that 15w40 is the recommended oil in the first place. It's the Mobil 1 that's the gamble mate .. That said you really shouldn't mix synthetic and mineral oils ..
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I would say this "document" of the Schrick and it's effects would be best placed as that - in the knowledgebase.
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Coilpack, leads and plugs can all be adversely effected by dousing in water, obviously. BUT that effect should go away when the water evaporates off, unless they were faulty in the first place.
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I gained 10 lbft across the range with a replacement MAF. Might be worth a punt .. ?
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LOL, 7000 rpm at full throttle in top gear ... I think you need a taller final drive...
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Timing chains go tight above 2k rpm, you can't really hear them. Sounds more like something's loose, to me ..