dr_mat

Usually the lambda when it's overfuelling that badly.

Ah but at a constant 70 mph your engine is producing maybe 120 lbft of torque, yet you are not accelerating, and therefore you feel NOTHING. Is 120 lbft nothing? Of course not..

The pull you feel is acceleration, not directly torque, so I cannot concede this time .. :-P Anyway, I thought "pulling" was what you did on a friday night down the school disco?

You mean 0-60 in 7.2 minutes? (Always thought it was an odd expression that..!)

There's a company doing Aero blades for standard arms now.

Oil into the cylinder has to be either bore wear, valve stem seals or head gasket.. What's odd is that it's all six though, *that* is really strange, unless oil is getting into the fuel. But I'd expect you to see clouds of blue smoke all the time if it was oiling up the plugs that badly...?

Do a search, there's a million threads on how to check your battery and alternator out ...

Moi? 130k. Never had the oil light on at any time, but just curious. My VR is a little clattery, so wanted to get the pressure checked, just don't know the ins+outs of how to test it and what to expect.

Where did you get those oil pressure figures from btw? And where should that be measured from? And I assume that's with "standard" 15w40 oil?

IIRC one of the motor bolts goes through the engine bracket that attaches it to the front engine mount .. so you'll need to prop the engine up to get it back in .. Other than that I paid a local garage to do it, so I don't know of any more gotchas. BTW, GSF sell genuine Bosch refurbed starters for ~£75 exchange. I didn't see the point in messing about with 2nd hand. (Bit late now, but .. )

Can't advice on a garage if we don't know where you are ... Have you checked plugs/distributor/leads .. ?

It's more about the ratio of length of runner to it's diameter. Look at the VSR/VGI. That works by creating two narrower inlets for each bank of cylinders and using a standing wave, a resonance in the air to boost mid-range torque.

It's all about perception. On the one hand, people don't like to pay for "unnecessary work". But on the other hand, if you have an accident and a part is a little worn which may have contributed to it (but not failed completely), then you might think that the garage should have spotted it. Some people's perception of what needs doing is different from other's perceptions. Of course, I'm not defending the crowd of idiots that genuinely do just make up repairs to increase their bottom line .. that's just crap. Just saying that in some cases it's just a difference of opinion, and there's not really a right and a wrong answer.

Well, I guess everyone *assumes* it kills the torque, because we're taught that you need nice long runners to generate good low rev torque .. but I doubt many people have actually tried it ..

Don't think any posters have stated anything other than an observed fact so far, so I don't think anyone has any reason to complain about their treatment. Whoever RKE actually are ...

RKE?

Bleed the clutch fluid through. That can help, but it's about time (10 years on) that the clutch master/slave cylinders get a bit iffy - particularly if the fluid hasn't been bled through regularly.

Those are examples of large bills, I'm sure we can all find those .. (Like the previous owner of my car who paid £1300 for a service - ok including a new catalyst, plugs, leads, coil pack .. ?) OTTOMH: Local Reading VW dealer: £80/hr + VAT (as of 2005) Local Reading VW specialist: £40/hr + VAT AMD Auto Technik: £65/hr + VAT Stealth Racing: £45/hr + VAT Tiny little garage near my parent's place: £20/hr (never took the Corrado there)

"best" - well OBD2 was the later version, so it's got to be better, right? It has a significant number more "knobs" that the tuner can tweak to make it run well, and it responds more quickly, and it supports more lambda probes (again helping it to run better fuelling) and so on. The biggest trick that the ultra-smart engine management systems do these days is making hugely powerful engines relatively efficient. I mean, people remember that getting 175 bhp out of the Vauxhall 2.0 16v Astra GTE engine wasn't too hard - with a couple of Weber carbs. But doing that *and* getting over 20 mpg in normal driving isn't possible without complicated electronic engine management .. Let's face it, the 2.9 VR6 is capable of 35 mpg on a run; the BMW 328i is capable of 39 mpg on a run; these figures simply wouldn't be possible without smart electronic ignition.. The power figures are relatively easy to obtain..

Highly likely, as Dinkus already mentioned. This valve can be adjusted, but with vehicle resting on wheels. If you've got an early G60, the VAG-COM may not work, simply follow the procedure here (worked a treat on mine :-)): http://www.the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=44599&highlight= Tempest[/quote:377ba] To add some details to what is stated above - the rear brake load proportioning valve (for it is he) should be adjusted using the proper VW tool when the car is lowered. Basically it uses the position of the rear arm to decide how much weight is on the back and therefore how much braking force it can put to the back. If you lower the car you trick it into thinking there's permanently lots of weight on the back of the car... And hence your problems. The ABS can't fix everything. Not sure how many channels the ABS on the G60 has - many don't have individual rear operation, and some ABS systems didn't operate on the rears at all. If the ABS light does the correct cycle then it's working, but you can't expect miracles.

The map made no difference to throttle response, afaik he only alters the full throttle fuelling and ignition timing between 2700 and 3700 rpm anyway to take account of the shrek band. Everything else is exactly like the standard map. The MAF swap, on the other hand, is what's responsible for turning an ok engine that runs alright into an engine that responds like a rapier when you open the throttle .. The MAF swap alone is responsible for producing an extra 10 lbft of torque between 4000 and 5500 rpm.

It's one of these, yeah? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1995-CORRADO-GOLF-VR6-MAF-MASS-AIRFLOW-METER_W0QQitemZ140037795356

Short manifolds are usually only used with forced induction. You need a nice long manifold to produce good torque, so without the s/c or t/c you might find a short manifold leaves you somewhat wanting more, unless you drive everywhere at 5500 rpm ..

FIVE connectors on a 1995 VR6 MAF? I thought all 95 VR6 Corrados had four-wire hot film MAFs?

I think you mean "see what the craic is" .. ;)