dr_mat

Good old serial ports. Never had any trouble with mine. :) I'd be surprised if there's a problem with the port - to my mind if you can talk to the ECU then your interface cable is working fine. The OBD interface bus to the ABS controller is clearly to blame, or the ABS controller itself.

Well .. same as I said in the other thread .. perhaps there's a problem with the wiring between the ABS controller and the ECU. Open up the big multiplug on the ABS controller and see if you can clean up any dodgy pins and stuff.

Ah, didn't see your latest updates about v311 when I wrote that .. ! :)

...then I wouldn't bother. I think it's easy to be impressed by the performance boost *subjectively*, because hey it's making a big noise. Psychologically it's not hard to see how this translates to a perception of "snappier" acceleration. If you like the noise. (I do, sometimes.) Go for it. But if you're hoping for performance fluctuation greater than what you'd see in a normal day's driving due to engine temperature changes and air temp changes then I suspect you'd be disappointed...

I'd have a look at maybe another type of car. Find a local VR6 to hook up to, the ECU is a bit more electronically robust .. Or a Golf VR/16v from the late 90's. You could always have a faulty cable, it's possible .. And you could also have a faulty serial port. Did you ever succesfully run anything on the serial port at all? Even if it's just a hyperterm?

BMW use similar tech in their exhausts. Twin pipes above 3k rpm, single pipe only at lower revs.

2.0 16v is a late car, so I think it would be the same top plates as a VR. BUT iirc most aftermarket suspension seems to require the early, wider spring top plates to sit on. They are interchangeable and cost a few quid from VW.

Then I'm out of ideas. Might be worth trying another car ...

What windows version are you using? I had trouble with win2k cos I wasn't logged in as administrator .. Which I don't fully understand, cos VAG-COM would quite happily tell me that it had found the adapter itself, just wouldn't get a link to the ECU. Soon as I logged back in as Admin and re-ran it it worked fine. (I never had any trouble under win98, obviously .. )

VR uses the "plus" front suspension, but in terms of the struts (spring and damper), they're the same across the range. There was a variation in the spring top plate between early cars and late ones, and the standard VR suspension used gas dampers where the standard dampers for the other cars were just oil, but this is just trivia.

Sounds like it's burning a little bit of oil. No great surprise. Just keep an eye on the oil levels...

Not looked myself, but the cage sits on the rear of the hub, behind the brake disks, and yes that looks like the ABS sensor, so the cage is the other side of that assembly.

Dunno mate. I've got version 311 and it looks like that screenshot, so not sure what might be up with yours!

Urmm ... http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/vw_issues.html Bottom of the page. In case you don't believe me............... :-P (Still applies to the Corrado, cos the Corrado engines hung around without change far longer than they rightly should have done .. )

AFAIK removing the centre silencer just makes the exhaust louder. On a N/A car it's very unlikely to liberate any bhp. Don't know too much about the pros and cons of remapping for your cams though.

Given that we don't know what version of VAG-COM you're using, it's hard to answer that question!

You might find that the leather is much improved simply with a good leather restorer. Certainly it'll become a lot more flexible and less hard and shiny with just one treatment. And we have to assume you've worked out how much insurance is going to be! :)

I'd quite like to buy a Bugatti Veyron with under 5000 miles on it. I've got £2,611.92p to spare. I'm about as likely to be happy with my purchase as someone looking for a minter Storm for £4.5k .. !! ;) Either increase your budget or lower your sights. (Or be unbelievably lucky.) Bear in mind that Parkers/Glasses and so on massively undervalue these cars due to their rarity. Also bear in mind that poor students generally can't afford to insure group 19 cars, or pay for petrol at 25 miles per gallon. (Yes that's only ONE insurance group off the top of the scale!)

The Ross-Tech website explicitly states that unless you set the "starting baud rate" to 4800 BEFORE you attempt to connect to the ECU/ABS on a 2.0 16v it will confuse the ECU. Once confused, the only way it can be returned to working state is to turn the ignition off and back on again ...

Time to do a VAGCOM scan to check out those sensors..

Hmm, worthy of a check out. But no electrical weirdos on the missus' car so far (at 6 years old), so maybe yours was a one off?

Surely EOS is © Canon Cameras .. ?

Possibly. Find out where the heat gets to..

TBH it's a bit harsh to slag Pug off about it excessively, I mean it's a pretty rare problem compared to the number of people who drive cars with that engine in it (that means Pugs, Citroens, vans, cars, the whole shebang). And they're still more reliable than bloody VWs.

Common failure.. (Yet another one.)