dr_mat

I suggest lottysvdub gets a new fan control thermoswitch!

Still sounds like the thermostat to me! Can you describe how long it takes for the temp gauge to move, and how far it gets up before it starts steaming? Basically, if the temp climbs steadily from the bottom of the gauge to over 100 degrees and the fans never come on your thermostat is not working. The stat should open at 80 degrees (ish) and obviously when that happens the engine gets a dose of cool water flow into it, which stalls the needle from climbing any higher, *even if you're not driving along*.

I knew someone who had a Berlingo till not long ago. She changed it's name to Berlin-doesn't-go I'm afraid .. Too many failures.. Mostly due to bodged previous work, to be fair to the car itself...

Bulb is not available seperately from the dealer - you have to buy the whole trim assembly and it's ££££. (Did you expect any less from the stealership?)

The photgraphy has been taken at various times. The Reading area, for example, was only updated quite recently (a few months ago), but the satellite images were taken a couple of years ago on a spring Sunday morning. The data comes from lots of different fly-bys of the satellites, and I imagine there's a significant amount of work needs to be done to it by Google before they can put it on the maps site, too.. (Like making it properly line up with the roads, for example ..)

Where do you find someone who can fit a VR6 rad for £60?? It's a long job!

New ones are massively expensive. Used ones are good value...

Any VW specialist will have the appropriate kit to read that error code, and yes we mean VAGCOM (or equivalent).

Could in fact be the bulb, yes. But most likely someone disabled it for a reason (an expensive one). :( Best way to find out is to ask the ECU what's up. If you can't talk to the ABS at all, it's been disconnected, or the fuse is gone, or the relay has been removed.

Serial/USB is just for preference, or, in your case, because you don't have serial! (A lot of laptops are dropping the old serial/parallel plugs now.) The cheapo cables use an opto-isolator to protect the ECU from voltage spikes. Essentially this is a chip with an internal optical sender/receiver pair to 100% isolate the car's circuit from the computer's. The only data passed between the two circuits is done by light. The newer cables (for the newer cars) use a much faster electrical isolation mechanism, but I'm not 100% sure how that works. The opto-isolator is in the adaptor cable that you might buy. If you're going the whole hog and buying a cable from Ross-Tech themselves, it'll be all you need, rest assured..

Agreed, these cars don't like being left standing. They pine for the fjords .. or something. Everyone else I know can go away on hols for three weeks and come back and the car fires up first time. I'm always getting the jump leads out at that point .. (Ironically, usually to jump start the car from the missus' Peugeot, which had also been standing unused for three weeks..)

MAF sensor? Coil pack? Plugs looking ok? Not oiled up? Fuel filter might help, but I doubt it. Getting the ECU scanned is the best starting point...

The ECU needs > 8v I think to maintain the car running, but let's face it, if the alternator is turning (which it was), it will be seeing an easy 14v constantly, so I doubt that's your fix..

Dunno mate, I've heard mixed stories. I'm sure I've heard that the cam profiles are slightly different, but beyond that I don't know.

Sticky throttle cable?

Why don't you scan the errors ... the ABS system will tell you itself exactly what the fault is, save all the random chasing of ghosts.

Cool, would like to see some quality Opel Manta pics.. :)

It's time to realise that the Corrado VR6 is no longer the fastest car on the road! Now every hot hatch has more power, and the diesels have twice the torque output and even they're chasing the power figure, too ...

Now we're talkin!

Is there an echo in here?? ;)

Well ... bang for buck was my argument. Rechip for extra 50bhp = £3-400. Rebore for extra 50bhp = at least three or four times that, no? Of course I'm a big believer in the "no replacement for displacement".. but if you're getting rid of your big displacement engine ..

Yeah, most likely the cap was venting, but as you say, if the temps continued to climb, so did the pressure. Definitely sounds like a thermostat problem.

Recent discussions seem to suggest it's cheaper to replace the VR with a late 24v one than to rebuild fully ..

Worth checking the leccie one, but the main water pump should be adequate on it's own. The expansion cap lid is supposed to release excess pressure in fact. Possibly yours is faulty.. Get a new one, they're only a few quid.

Do Stealth (or anyone else for that matter) now do a "OBD2" bundle? Or do you still need to dig around sourcing parts and looms yourself?