dr_mat

Most likely your alloys have a little bit of corrosion around the inside of the rim, where the tyre is supposed to seal to it. You could get the tyres refitted and take a wire brush to the rim to try and smooth it out, but to be honest you're always going to be fighting a losing battle there and the only way to fix that is to get them refurbished.

Ironically it's usually the other way around - the cleaner removes the deposits that happen to be the only thing plugging up all the gaps... It's a possible theory, but the biggest influence on oil consumption is the type of driving you do, in my experience.

Fortunately for you, there's a long list of other parts that should keep you going on the repairs for some time yet!! :(

Get the tracking checked.. that's the most likely culprit. --- edit - beaten to it... :)

I've asked them to reset the error memory and try it again later...

Ok, error codes are reporting: near side front sensor fault ABS voltage the latter is surely what's triggering the start-up warning (duff relay?) but I've no idea why the former has occurred - cos there's never a problem with the ABS when the engine is warmed. I suspect the relay myself, but they're insisting it could be the sensor fault that's causing the voltage problem. (True enough, I suppose, but given that the sensor works perfectly for most of the time when I'm driving it I'm inclined to think not.)

Ah, probably another knackered temp sensor then, I'd guess. No wonder these things chew batteries like they're going out of fashion! All the things running for "up to 20 minutes" after you turn the engine off...

I'll bet there's NO insurance benefit from a 1.4 Corrado. All the thieves will think it's a 2.0 or 2.9, so that's what the insurance will be looking at...

Ah, so he was using the tow from your Corrado then..? ;)

Actually, the front grill off an old Cray T3E supercomputer is a really good quality metal panel to use as a base for this kind of work... We used to have one in the lab ...

I joined.. well.. they cashed my cheque, anyway ...

Two minds is better than three or more...

I'd say it sounds a lot like he's probably being straight, and if he is, he can't refuse a polite request to run the car from cold for a good long test drive. If everything else looks in order, you have no reason to assume that the gasket's gone just yet. If the guy's serious, he won't have any trouble with a longer test drive (though he might want some cash for petrol if you don't agree to buy it - can't say fairer than that). I wouldn't walk away yet if everything else about the car suits you.

And you being a copper and all... What kind of example is that you're setting..?? :twisted:

You really need to get the oil above 100 degrees and keep it there for about 10-15 minutes to boil all the condensation out. Mine gets pretty bad cos my daily commute is not long enough to do this, so after a week or two of no long journeys you can guarantee it'll have mayo on the filler cap. It even did this when I went on a track day - mayo on filler cap in the morning, but after a good run ( :) ) there was none.. If you're worried ask the guy for a longer test drive, but I've seen a number of threads on here saying the same thing.

I get the same thing on my VR if I don't do any longish journeys. It's a big engine and yes if you've not changed the oil like 10 minutes ago, it will have had some condensation build up and maybe some mayo build up on the filler cap. If you've run the car up to temperature and driven for 30 minutes or so and you *still* have mayo then's the time to start worrying. Either that or mine is buggered in the same way, anyway!! ;)

It's like using a quality hifi. It still sounds good when it's quiet. Quality is all about control, not loudness... :)

Yep, that's the only way to really *get* a rotary engine - to see it working..!

Sorry - that option isn't possible at the moment. Would probably only p*** off people on 56k though, having the page take an age to load. Presume it's the same as in the link? No worries, that's very true aswell, I forget that not everyone has broadband!! ;) Yes it's the same as in the link itself.

Ah, all sounds good so far... It really does sound like mine are squishy and basically aren't reliably returning to shape after deformation. Could well be that long runs would help with that (they probably never get properly warmed through on my commute) but I'm pretty sure they're prob quite worn by now (8yrs, 116k miles..). I'd guess they're pretty easy to fit too - so not too much labour involved. It's all sounding better by the minute!! :) The only thing I don't wanna do is wind up with more road noise or more harsh handling, but I wouldn't have thought this bush would make that much difference to those things - as it's not really supporting any of the car's weight. (The mind boggles as to how good the steering could be when "significantly improved" over the stock Corrado feel!!!) Any ideas on the best (read cheapest!) places to get VT bushes? :)

Party in Reading mate, pop over! :)

See my trouble is, I like the *sound* of that... :) :) No, no cracking apparently, I've not had chance to have a good look myself. Might get them replaced anyway... (After all I've not spent anything on the beast for almost a whole month now!!) How come the front bush never goes then?

kev, you're chasing my replies around the forum mate... ;) g-master yeah you're probably right. I've not driven one. (It is, after all, a Golf.) It's not on my possibles list... Even if I was minted.

http://travel.howstuffworks.com/rotary-engine4.htm Nice bit of flash animation showing EXACTLY how it works. (Well except how the motion is passed to the central crank...) Dunno if the following will work: src="http://static.howstuffworks.com/flash/rotary-engine-animation.swf" quality="high" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/shockwave/download/index.cgi?P1_Prod_ Version=ShockwaveFlash" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="405" height="300"> It seems not... Mods - can you make this work?

There's more than a Corrado, and it's at lower revs too. But then you'd expect that, the R32 *does* have variable inlet manifolding (a VSR), plus the ubiquitous 24 valves, so it generally breathes a lot better. Add the extra 300cc and you can see where the extra oomph comes from... But it's a bit heavier (well the equivalent of three fat blokes), and it loses 20bhp to a 4x4 setup in rolling resistance, so it's not necessarily quicker. That low down torque will make it feel more spritely than it is, however...